Project: Smogie...RacinNdrummins IDI build
#2191
04-29-2017, 12:52 PM
I tend to adjust it by ear myself. Early on, I used a tool, then realised that I was pretty much adjusting by ear anyway.
I aim for a position where:
1. It's clattery when cold.
2. On the highway, that upper end clatter goes away.
3. When accelerating, you don't have any white smoke. If you have white smoke, advance it. Black smoke means fuel at the right time or too advanced.
Just kind of play with it. If you advance it and it gains power, keep advancing it. If it starts to lose power, retard it again. See what feels best.
I tend to try to get it to feel best at the upper end by advancing/retarding it; if it's too clattery or has no clatter at idle, you can then adjust the light-load advance cam back or forth until it 'feels' right.
With a new IP, it's easy. With a used one, you may have to compromise a bit on what gives you the best response/power/starts well, because the timing circuit in the IP is what tends to wear out first.
You just keep turning it up a flat at a time until it stops. Depending on adjustment when you started, probably 4-6 flats maby? Who knows.
Just be careful, and if you feel sudden resistance, stop. Adjust it back and then forward again, and if it stops at the same spot, you're there.
I aim for a position where:
1. It's clattery when cold.
2. On the highway, that upper end clatter goes away.
3. When accelerating, you don't have any white smoke. If you have white smoke, advance it. Black smoke means fuel at the right time or too advanced.
Just kind of play with it. If you advance it and it gains power, keep advancing it. If it starts to lose power, retard it again. See what feels best.
I tend to try to get it to feel best at the upper end by advancing/retarding it; if it's too clattery or has no clatter at idle, you can then adjust the light-load advance cam back or forth until it 'feels' right.
With a new IP, it's easy. With a used one, you may have to compromise a bit on what gives you the best response/power/starts well, because the timing circuit in the IP is what tends to wear out first.
You just keep turning it up a flat at a time until it stops. Depending on adjustment when you started, probably 4-6 flats maby? Who knows.
Just be careful, and if you feel sudden resistance, stop. Adjust it back and then forward again, and if it stops at the same spot, you're there.
Thank you! That helps, good advice!
#2193
10-15-2018, 10:20 PM
compresion ratio's
i know the OP is busy doing his thing, but I'm curious to see what everyone thinks. i know he blew up the NA rods for better or for for worst. does any one think since he was running stock compression ratio;s that help contribute to the NA rods breaking. it was a few or a lot of post back, and i wasn't sure if that motor had stock compression pistons.
and if not does anyone think that dropping the CR would have help let live the rods to a high power and boost level? even though i might have answer my own question there. old school thought, but open to comments.
cheers
and if not does anyone think that dropping the CR would have help let live the rods to a high power and boost level? even though i might have answer my own question there. old school thought, but open to comments.
cheers
#2194
10-16-2018, 12:03 AM
The engine with the crumpled rods was stock compression. Rod failure is the result of excessive peak cylinder pressures. Factors that influence peak cylinder pressure include: static compression ratio, valve timing (cam), ignition timing (IP), burn rate (if water meth/nitrous are involved), and air density (~ = boost psi). In the case of the crumpled rods, I suspect the main culprits were really high boost + water methanol. Decompression does buy you some latitude with the other peak pressure factors, but I don’t know how much would have been needed to save the NA rods, or if decompression would have been enough. Justin disagrees, but I have read numerous places that water methanol is a great way to join the bent rod club. I know for my build I intend to stay away from injectables, and if boost pressures get out of hand I will have to advance the timing or wastegate the turbo.
#2195
10-16-2018, 12:07 AM
The engine with the crumpled rods was stock compression. Rod failure is the result of excessive peak cylinder pressures. Factors that influence peak cylinder pressure include: static compression ratio, valve timing (cam), ignition timing (IP), burn rate (if water meth/nitrous are involved), and air density (~ = boost psi). In the case of the crumpled rods, I suspect the main culprits were really high boost + water methanol. Decompression does buy you some latitude with the other peak pressure factors, but I don’t know how much would have been needed to save the NA rods, or if decompression would have been enough. Justin disagrees, but I have read numerous places that water methanol is a great way to join the bent rod club. I know for my build I intend to stay away from injectables, and if boost pressures get out of hand I will have to advance the timing or wastegate the turbo.
#2196
10-16-2018, 12:33 AM
No, I have a set of factory turbo rods that are going in. My pistons are ceramic coated but not cut. The engine isn’t built yet so I don’t know what the protrusion will be, but it is whatever Mahale makes their .020 replacement pistons at. Should be close to stock CR. My deck did not require surfacing.
#2197
10-20-2018, 05:56 PM
Well, my beloved truck "The Beast" just had the torque converter go out. Was pulling a hill under a load, started losing power, I pulled over, put it in low (1), tried to go again but no power. Just revs. No grinding, all the gears shift fine (incl 4x4), so I was hoping it just overheated. Got a tow home, noticed the tranny oil pan gasket was leaking, thought "aha! it lost fluid & shut down." Replaced the gasket - zero metal in the fluid, not so much as a fleck in any of it. Whew! Fired her up, but still no gears working, and fluid coming out of torque converter casing. Yikes! Mechanic tenant from local chevy dealership checked it out, said its torque converter, maybe a seal or gear?
So, bottom line is I gotta sell The Beast - we hardly ever use it anymore and I don't need such a huge truck either.
I'd really like it to go to someone who loves these trucks and I thought this might be the best place to start.
Its a supercab w/ 4doors,
Its an xlt, so all the goodies. Tires less than 8k miles. Just had the brakes done in April, have driven maybe 200 miles on them.
Front brushguard, heavy duty towing bumper, gooseneck hitch ball in bed, 8' bed with bedliner & cast iron headache rack.
it also has a Straight Vegetable Oil (SVO) auxiliary electronic fuel system on it but I have that disconnected since I stopped using it much.
266,199 miles, mostly highway, some mountain, lots of work done at 100,000k - I have all the paperwork - ALL of it, huge file, every receipt for two decades.
VERY well-maintained. Interior very clean - no tears in any upholstery or carpets. One crack in dashboard.
I love my Beast but have no reason to fix it when I'd be fine with a f150 these days as i'm gettin' older. And I know there's a select few of us who LOVE these trucks and might want to give this one a good home and get her back roaring again.
So, what's the best way to find someone who might want it and what do you think its worth? NADA says up to $8900 even with 266k miles. Body is pretty good, nothing major. But i'd like to sell it fast so I can get a newer f150.
Thanks ya'll!
So, bottom line is I gotta sell The Beast - we hardly ever use it anymore and I don't need such a huge truck either.
I'd really like it to go to someone who loves these trucks and I thought this might be the best place to start.
Its a supercab w/ 4doors,
Its an xlt, so all the goodies. Tires less than 8k miles. Just had the brakes done in April, have driven maybe 200 miles on them.
Front brushguard, heavy duty towing bumper, gooseneck hitch ball in bed, 8' bed with bedliner & cast iron headache rack.
it also has a Straight Vegetable Oil (SVO) auxiliary electronic fuel system on it but I have that disconnected since I stopped using it much.
266,199 miles, mostly highway, some mountain, lots of work done at 100,000k - I have all the paperwork - ALL of it, huge file, every receipt for two decades.
VERY well-maintained. Interior very clean - no tears in any upholstery or carpets. One crack in dashboard.
I love my Beast but have no reason to fix it when I'd be fine with a f150 these days as i'm gettin' older. And I know there's a select few of us who LOVE these trucks and might want to give this one a good home and get her back roaring again.
So, what's the best way to find someone who might want it and what do you think its worth? NADA says up to $8900 even with 266k miles. Body is pretty good, nothing major. But i'd like to sell it fast so I can get a newer f150.
Thanks ya'll!
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