That's the way mine works. When I tore it apart there were small spring loaded detent ***** that locked the shafts in the different positions. I could only get them to go into 3 positions until I hot tanked all the parts. By the way, those springs and ***** were a real $%%^^^^ to get back together........

 

thats the general consensus i hear .... mine also had 2 bolts that "lock" the shift rails when you screw em in just wondering what these are for? also mine had water in it, no rust but its sludged to death id like to wash it out and run it as is after new seals i have no intentions of a rebuild until i run it to see how things go. its verry tight and turns smoothly .

what can i wash it out with that wouldnt furthur ruin any seals ? my uncle sugested filling the case with kerosine over night and repeat a couple times along with turning the sharts and shakeing the box itself to loosten up the gunk

 

If it where me, I'd take the power take off cover off ( the one with 6 bolts) and pressure wash the crap out of it. Then I'd do what your uncle suggested and fill it with kerosene and work the gearing and shift shafts till everything worked smooth.

 

will the kerocene chase the water out? how can i chemicaly dry the inside before i button it up and lube it?

 

Sounds interesting.... subscribed

 

diesel will absorb water. idk about kerosene.

 

UPDATE: this week i took off both the pto cover and the large acces cover and put it in a bucket made from the lower third of a 40 gallon drum i filled it with kerocine and it washed all the gunk out almost instantly i rinced it several times and finaly submerged it overnight it looks realy good inside and shifts nice too! im still haveing trouble getting the outside clean enough to paint

what type of seals does this unit have and can i convert it to the neoprne seals like in a axil hub?

also what size U joints does my 1ton have in it? everythign is stock? and it has the np435

 

Guessing here, but i would say you have 1350 joints in your pickup. And if the brownie was out of a light truck im sure its 1350, but maybe 1410

 

how do i measure to find out?

 

Eh... the nuts on the u-bolts that hold the u-joint to the rear yoke, should be 9/16" if its 1350 joints. The joint at the trans may be different tho. Hard to tell what all they did. I was trying to find a t-case yoke and everyone was just like... have to bring it in, theres no tellin what was in what. But i assume you have the D70 rear, so im betting 99% odds that its a 1350 in the back.

 

does anyone have the dimensions of the 1350 ujoint il throw a dial caliper on it and measure it?

 

The cap on a 1350 will be 1 1/8

 

does anyone have pictures of one ov these aux box's shifter and lynkages?

 

Here's some info on universal joints I saved from another forum, -Understanding Universal Joints and Size Charts, this will have the info your looking for, its all the way at the bottom of the page.

 

in my case i have a frame crossmember in the way..... idk if it exists in reg. cab trucks but it is going to have to be moved does anyone see a problem with cutting out the rivets and moveing it backwards 6-8 inches ?? i will be adding 2 robust crossmembers for mounting my aux.