Status P.S
To correctly answer the other part of your question M-chan68, No I have not yet changed the STC. If this is to be next, could you send me the torques for any major bolts that will need to be torqued and any tips or tricks to some of the parts, not a step by step break down, but a "it's easier to remove turbo or HPOP if you ......." Or caution when doing........ Thanks

 

Did you have ALL sensors and actuators plugged back in, while you were trying to re-start the engine (most importantly the IPR valve)?

As far as how to access and replace the STC fitting goes? Remove the turbo. First disconnect/remove the air inlet, the hot side outlet, y-pipe and downpipe. emove the two 10mm bolts on the oil supply to the turbo. Remove the three 10mm bolts that secure the turbo to the pedestal. With one prybar, pry the turbo up slightly, just enough for you to get another prybar on the under side of the turbo to knock the drain tube out from under it. Once the drain tube is knocked out, Lift the turbo up and finesse it out of the van through the doghouse opening. Now remove the pedestal (four 10mm bolts). Disconnect the oil filter supply/return tube from the oil cooler top cover (one 10mm bolt at the top cover, one 15 or 13mm bolt to the left/rear of the engine block and three 10mm bolts from underneath, just above the oil filter housing). Remove the IPR valve. Remove all eight 8mm bolts that secure the high pressure oil pump cover (use a "stubby" racheting type wrench for the three under the EGR cooler). Once removed, FINESSE the cover out CAREFULLY (two of the eight bolts under the EGR cooler will have to remain in the cover due to clearance) so as not to drop the two bolts into the engine!!!! Remove the HPOP (two 8mm bolts and three TX-45 bolts). Installation is just the reverse of removal. Torque the three TX-45 bolts to 23 ft-lbs. and the two branch tube connector bolts to 124 in-lbs.

HOPE THIS HELPS. GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN!!!

 

Mike, since I have heard getting initial fire up could be a problem with getting the pressure up, I filled my reservoir below oil cooler housing with oil before re-assembly, should I also pour some thru the cover before putting oil line adapter on. Should Electrified and I or anyone doing stand pipes, prime them with some oil before bolting top half of stand pipe on. How long should he be cranking before letting starter rest and how many of those cycles before you know something else is wrong. Electrified, you're getting me nervous, I'll be firing up this weekend , hopefully after my tear down.If you didn't get your STC fitting yet, Tousely and/ or Ebay had the best price. Make sure it comes with the alignment tool, mine didn't and I had to borrow one from one of the FTE members.

 

Put a charger on your batteries. Just crank away on the engine until you see the oil pressure gauge rise. Once it rises, expect it to take at least another 40 seconds or more of engine cranking before the engine will start. As far as priming up the oil system goes, I never bother with it and I have yet to have a problem. It would be a very good idea to have a scan tool plugged in while monitoring the rise of your ICP as your doing this. The only way you'll know you have an issue is if it doesn't rise. Good luck.

 

Thanks very much for the detailed verbal breakdown it is greatly appreciated. I have my son coming in this weekend with his oil test kit to check for leaks in the stand pipes/dummy plugs and the rest of the system. Just in case I did something incorrect never hurt to check if he's here and has time to give a look. Hopefully I will locate the issue, I believe I am still going to replace the STC regardless if it is leaking or not, just for future assurance if nothing else. You made me re-think about the IPR valve connector, so I had to go and check it again, but it was securely connected. It never hurts to check twice. Does the parts manual or the repair manuals you use have an illustrated parts breakdown of the STC parts and where they're located. I all ready have the kit and see a pretty good amount of parts in there or should I be able to identify all the parts as I disassemble for the STC update? I just don't want to get lost in parts that maybe for another applications that comes in the kit or miss a part that should have been changed. I do have access to All Data through my son, but he stays very busy in the field compared to working from a shop to get answers quickly. But if I knew there was a specific usable diagram you may know of it would speed up my process and save him time searching. Thanks again for your help and support. Luke

 

Once you remove the HPOP, it will become immediately evident where all the parts included in the STC kit are to be installed.

Furthermore, make sure you have LOTS of rags handy when you remove the HPOP, because there will be lots of oil exiting the pump as you remove it. This way you don't don't mess up the interior with oil all over the place.

Any other questions?

 

m-chan68, I finally got an adapter for the oil pressure gauge to connect to the HPOP. Here's what I found. If I am correct in assuming the plug on the top of the HPOP is where you can connect a pressure gauge to get a pressure reading, is this correct? If so I got Zero oil pressure on the gauge when cranking it. The gauge never budged. There was oil slowly coming out of the hole when I removed the plug, so I know it had oil to that point. I cranked it for a couple minutes and got nothing. Can you give me some insight what I might have done incorrect or what may be the issue. Do I need to put oil in the hose between the gauge and the HPOP to prevent air or should that even affect it? Could Zero pressure indicate a leak in the STC area? Also is there anything electrical that could stop the pressure from building, ie. a solenoid valve or something or is it totally mechanical and will build pressure as long as it's turning over. Thank again

 

Okay, what have you done so far? How long did you crank the engine over, after you re-assembled everything? I would be very concerned that the gauge doesn't even budge when you crank the engine over. Does the instrument cluster oil pressure "gauge" even rise to the middle position after extended engine cranking? What did you replace? Just the STC fitting and the rail port plugs? Did you torque all components to proper specs? Are you using an original Ford/Motorcaft oil filter, or aftermarket? Is your engine oil up to poper level? Sorry for more questions than answers.

And yes, that port plug in the top of the HPOP is where you can connect a manual gauge (provided you are using one of appropriate range between 0 to 3000 psi) to obtain high pressure oil system readings. Did you re-connect the IPR valve?

 

m-chan68, I have replaced the stand pipes and the dummy plugs, everything was torqued properly and re-assembled correctly, nothing left over in the parts bin, LOL. I have not done the STC parts yet. I was hoping to try and test the pressure before I dissemble the pump and STC area. I cranked the engine for a long time, mostly for a minute straight and I have done that several time and had to recharge a couple times with a jumper on the batteries to ensure a fast crank. The oil pressure needle moves in the instrument cluster when I crank it at all. Is the plug in the top of the HPOP where I should be hooking up the pressure gauge to test it? I am trying to determine if it is the pump that failed or maybe the STC. I was just trying to be able to trouble shoot this if I ever need to again. Thanks again for your help.

 

Okay, if you've already installed the dummy rail plugs and the standpipes, I'm a little bit curious as to why didn't install the STC fitting yet. Given that pulling valve covers off an E-Series van is way harder a job than pulling the high pressure oil pump out, surprises me that you would've stopped at that.

But anyhow, if the idiot oil pressure gauge on the instrument cluster does rise after extended engine cranking, I think it's safe to say that you are building low pressure oil, and thus have no issues supplying the high side system. And yes, that port plug on top of the high pressure oil pump is where you would tap into, to air test the system for high pressure oil leaks on an E-Series, and therefore the same place that you can tap a manual gauge into, to test high pressure oil system output.

Your next step is to pull the high pressure pressure oil pump cover off for a look/see. I would be willing to bet that that STC is blown out preetty good, if you can get the engine to start. Let me know if you need assistance with the steps needed to remove.

 

Thanks again m-chan68. I did the stand pipes and plugs on a suggestion from someone else that told me that they were probably the issue more than the pump or STC. I really appreciate the information you have provided and your patients with shade trees such as myself, we do strange stuff. I will let you know what I found. Thanks

 

Well. PATIENCE is definitely a virtue that one must have, in order to work on E-Series trucks. Without it, I strongly suggest NOT wrenching on them.

If you already went through the trouble of replacing the dummy rails and standpipes, changing out a high pressure oil pump fitting won't be difficult. I am curious as to the condition of the lower d-rings when you removed them. Generally, it should have been deteriorated.

If you need pointers on removing the high pressure oil pump, let me know. About the only information I can think of, off the top of my head, is turbo removal. When removing it, simply pry it up off the pedestal just high enough that you can stick a long prybar underneath in under it to knock the oil drain tube out and a hammer on the other end. Once the drain tube is out, you will be able to remove the turbo by various twists and turns along with finesse. Doing it by the method I described will save you on a lot of swearing and knuckle scraping or murdering of the insulation. This method precludes "MODIFYING" (read: BENDING or EXPANDING) or the doghouse opening that I have read of and personally seen other "techs" doing to enble turbo removal.

 

I got the pump out yesterday and everything went just as you described. Not sure what or where the lower D-rings are? I'm sure I've seen them just not familiar with the term. You have more detail where they are or were and I can look and I can let you know what I found. To tell you the truth, I got the STC connection out and it seem loose as it pulls in and out and the seal around to was pushed back, and it will move side to side when it is out to its longest extent, not sure if this is normal or not. I have the new one installed and will be finishing the install today after I repair a couple items I found in the wiring, (chaffing in a couple spots, but not bad also to repair the heat shield around some of the harness's. Easier while the turbo is out.) I will let you know when I get it all together and give it a try. The turbo came out with out a lot of major issues, just as you said a lot of finesse. Thanks again

 

My fitting was the same way, but my truck ran like that. That turbo was a bitch getting out, but luckily Mike told me abt putting the drain tube on after and it went back in so easy I could'nt believe it. Boy these are fun to wrench on!

 

Your right, the turbo went right back in with no problems. I don't know how fun I would call all of this, but it has been an experience to say the least.
Luke