Ok, so I was looking into the 4" lift blocks to replace my 2" stock ones to lift the rear up a bit and was looking to get a carrier bearing spacer but when I looked up at the output shaft from the trans, there is no carrier bearing at all.

Question: (1) when did they stop putting in carrier bearings and (2) if I use these modest lift blocks, will I have a problem or is the lift small enough not to matter to my driveline? Thanks in advance folks,,,

 

Not sure about the carrier bearing, but my truck is lifted 2.3" in the back from my AAL kit. I didn't do any additional modifications and ProComp confirmed that I didn't have to. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for that! I was actually going to message you that question on how that went. The truck looks great!!! I think with the small lift I should be fine...

 

What cab/bed combo? Only the longer wheel bases had 2 peice d-shafts in the past.

 

Oh, OK, probably the same now then,,its a supercab short bed..

 

My long bed crew cab '11 has a carrier bearing so I'm sure it's the same as it has been throughout the years (as Bryan mentioned), long beds have 'em, short beds don't.

 

Yeah, no need for a carrier bearing since the shaft is so short. It's actually short enough that you should look into either factory tapered blocks, or a bolt in wedge to lift the pinion angle and keep the rear axle in line with the d-shaft. I ran flat 4" blocks, but the pinion angle wasn't ideal.

 

Depending on the wheel base, there will be either a one, two or three section drive shaft. At least my Service Manual shows all three.

 

Wonder what config you need for a 3 piece?

 

I was looking into these:

ReadyLift 2011 Ford F250 Super Duty 4" Rear Lift Block Kit

They don't say anything about being tapered but are f250 specific installation. readylift makes good stuff too from what I hear.

 

I know right??!!

 

I assume Ford hasn't changed the tapered blocks out with the new u-bolt configuration, but I don't have a 2011... so I can't be sure anyways. Your 2" factory blocks should be tapered, so that's how you'll know. I don't think any aftermarket companies would bother making two parts dependant on wheel base of one brand, seeing as how many of them market 2" blocks as being "stackable" anyways.

These are axle shims:
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...=101&t_pt=5502

Basically, you either have to care enough to set your own pinion angle with tapered blocks, shims, or by relocating the spring pads, or you don't care and you use flat blocks. I used flat ones, went back to factory after my pinion seal started leaking. It's needless wear thats easily correctable, but it's your money.

 

Thank you for the insight. I want to do it right so I think I'll check if they are tapered and go from there. Thanks for that shim link! That was going to be my next question!

 

It does go b wheelbase, but basically the SC short bed and the regular cab long bed trucks have 1 piece drive shafts.