I forgot something else. Please ask if you need anything.

For the first few months of ownership, it ran good, if you mashed the gas it nearly died but other then that it was good at cruise speed. Then it didn't want to idle, so we turned up the idle speed. And currently it's problem is it will not go over 1500 RPM, as soon as it that range it will just bounce all over the tach between 0-1500 and will stop when you let off the gas. And also still has that problem when you floor it as well.

I finally decided come hell or high water, I would get out there and start checking everything I could on the carb, and then my 4-month old battery dies

I'm getting a new replacement battery today and go from there.

I'm not a exactly a newbie to cars but my dad and I have never really messed with carb'd cars before.

 

So you're taking an EGR truck and making it non-egr. I'm doing the same thing now.

Look at my thread I about have mine licked.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-tow-tool.html

 

Buy the rebuild kit I mentioned. Carefully rebuild the carb.
Your tach going crazy is an electrical problem.
Most likely the box, but it's difficult to diagnose these things over the ether..

 

I suggest doing this one step at a time. IOW leave the EGR as it is right now, whether hooked to vacuum or not. Make the only change be the rebuilding of the carb with no other changes anywhere else.

Makes it easier to figure out where to go looking in the event of problems.

The falling-on-its-face-during-flooring makes me suspect the accelerator pump.

With the engine not running, remove the air cleaner and look into the carb as you fully open the throttle with your hand, you should see two strong streams of gasoline being injected inside as you do that. A dribble, or no gas being injected, would explain the hesitation.

 

Also as soon as you move the throttle fuel should come out.

 

I must say this though, this is a LOT more than just a few gaskets!!!

 

Yes, yes they are... ALL of them for about $40.
But they are the RIGHT gaskets (and the right two stage PowerValve) which aren't available anywhere else that I've found.
The rubber FOR your seals might grow in Malaysia or Brazil, the seals themselves should never come from a third world country.

 

take the egr off put a steel blocker plate inbetween it and bolt it back on ..the engine will run fine bin doing this since 1973 the engine wont run lean with this carb and it wont ping unlesstheres lots of carbon in the engine a can of seefoam will take care of that problem works on 302 351 and 400...

 

Sorry for the late update.

As ctubutis said, I looked down the carb and saw one jet was only letting in a dribble when I worked the throttle ()

Sparyed some carb cleaner in it runs quite a bit smoother too now actually.

Now, has anyone ever tried something like this to hook-up the EGR valve



instead of this




Any help, as usual, is much appreciated.

 

Hmmmm.... The accelerator pump supplies a shot of gas to the engine when you suddenly step on the pedal; are you saying the only thing you did to fix that problem was spray some carb cleaner into it and that fixed your hesitation problem?

The first diagram is how the 1960s & 70s vehicles were set up; there's a temperature-actuated valve that allows vacuum to flow only when the engine is warmed up, and the "ported" vacuum port on the carb supplies vacuum only off-idle.

This allows the EGR to operate only with a warm engine and while at speed.

If you follow the green line on your own diagram, you'll see you have basically the same thing but with the addition of supplying vacuum to the purge canister valves (charcoal canisters that collect gasoline fumes for later release back into the combustion chambers).


I forget what your project is; what are you wanting to accomplish?

 

The thermal VCV controls the EGR and the canister's purge valves because the engine needs to be at operating temperature for these to function effectively.

You can see in my vacuum routing diagram that the distributor receives restricted manifold vacuum until the engine starts to overheat, and then gets full manifold vacuum.
Stepping up the idle speed-therefore the fan and waterpump speed.

 

Long time coming update!

I haven't touched the EGR issue in awhile but I've fixed many other problems. Timing has been adjusted, any problems caused by spark has been eliminated, carb is actually in decent shape(or so I think >>). And now idles fine and speeds up pretty smooth with a heavy amount of throttle. However, light throttle will just kill the engine completely while in gear.

Problem? Theres a crack in the carb mounting gasket

 

Let me start by saying sorry for hijacking this thread. I have an 84 Bronco w/5.0 carb 2bbl.

Replaced the accel pump but gasket kit did not come with the gasket that goes between the bottom of the egr spacer plate or (at least thats what I think it is called) and the top of the intake. It flows coolant and egr gas through it so it kind of acts like a way to heat the carb.

I have been to the dealer and they don't carry any such gasket and no auto parts house have any remote idea what it is or what gasket it takes.

This is the part I am refering to:


Anyone know what this thing is called or where to get a gasket for it? The original gasket is similar to an intake gasket where it crushes down and is metalic in color. NOT the paper gasket. Can post better pics if needed.

Thanks

 

I just go to NAPA and ask to see their carb gaskets, they've got a box of 'em in back.

 

E3AZ-9447-A Spacer to manifold gasket (Motorcraft CG-644)
Fits 1983/85 302, 351W with cast-iron intake manifold and 2/B carb

Do Google searches on those numbers, looks like Rock Auto and eBay have 'em (as well as several other places)