is there a difference between the 1978 and 1979 ford voltage regulators?

i want to get this one for my 79 truck:

STARTERS AND ALTERNATORS

it is adjustable pop off cap and adjust as necessary.
i dont have any voltage issues at all but want a little
more output from the alt.

 

As far as the adjustable regulator, you really don't want it putting out more than 14.3-14.5 volts. More will only overheat the battery, and does not gain you any more capacity for the alternator. If you've ever noticed a battery charging on a battery charger, it will start out at maybe 16-18v and gradually decrease as battery becomes charged till the optimum 12.5 volts is achieved. In the vehicle it works the same way. No help as to diff between 78-79 regulator.

 

The regulators were the same for years and years - at some point they evolved from the original electromechanical style to electronic, but the function remained the same. There is no difference between '78 and '79.

You've already asked about this before: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ore-volts.html

What was wrong with the feedback last time? When I tried to help you last time, you never responded. Here's the SAME answer, again:

The electrical systems in these trucks are rated for 12 to 14 volts. You MUST NOT increase this voltage. The electrical system's voltage and the alternator's current output are not the same. The voltage regulator's job is to keep the truck's electrical system at around 14 volts. As you place more demand on the electrical system (such as turning on the headlights, the heater, etc) then the voltage regulator must call upon the alternator to produce more current in order to maintain the same voltage. When you shut these loads off, the electrical system's voltage will increase unless the alternator's current output is reduced, which the voltage regulator does.

The reason people upgrade their charging system is because for a given set of custom loads (like fog lights, electric fan, etc), the alternator can't put out enough current to satisfy the regulator's demands in the presence of all these extra loads. So the alternator is upgraded to one that can produce more current. Alternator output is a function of the alternator's windings. The voltage regulator has nothing to do with any of this; it's job is very simple. Newer alternators have the regulator built in because modern regulators are much smaller, and it's much more efficient to shorten the path between the regulator and alternator. However, the internal regulator inside a 3G alternator is doing the exact same job as the clunky stock regulator on the fender - it just does it with better transient response.

What I'm hearing from you is that you want to install an adjustable regulator because you want the system voltage to be above 14 volts, because you think this is better. This will fry any onboard electronics like stereos, CBs, and the ignition module. Not to mention almost ALL automotive electrical loads are rated for 12 volts. A stock alternator would not likely be able to keep up with the demands of a non-standard regulator anyway. That web page even says it's for industrial or fleet systems at "various" voltages - these trucks are not special cases. They are 12 volt systems.

 

(don't mean to hijack, but instead
of starting another thread I'll ask here)

I need VR. lights dim then bright,wipers fast
then slow, dash lights work then don't.
I got one from AZ long time ago, but I took it
out because alternator QUIT charging battery?
So I never got another.
Could the one and only time I got one from AZ,
it was bad? Or something else? My alternator
has always been eratic, charging randomly.

 

thank you FMC400 for the rgeat response.
Sorry for the repost.

 

Install a 3g and you alternator problems will be over.

 

You shouldn't upgrade an entire system like that in hopes it will take care of the problem, without first understanding the problem.

I don't understand what you mean - you replaced the regulator, but then removed it? What all did you do exactly and in what steps? 9 times out of 10, erratic voltage is caused by a faulty regulator. The other time it's because the regulator is not grounded properly.

 

FMC400 I agree that you should diagnose a problem and not throw parts at it in hopes to fix it. However, for $25 at a junkyard and a little bit of time you can get a more modern alternator and a more modern voltage regulator and it will probably fix your electrical woes.

 

It could - but if you're not even getting power to the regulator in the first place, then it won't fix the problem. The 3G setup takes the same keyed power signal as the stock setup. You can have problems upstream that keep the charging system from working that will be there even after replacing the entire charging system. It takes 10 minutes with a multimeter to properly diagnose a charging system issue; there's no reason not to.

 

C3SZ-10316-A replaced by D4TZ-10316-A in 1974. D4TZ-10316-A replaced in 1982 by E2PZ-10316-A = This is a solid state electronic regulator with a flat cover marked MOTORCRAFT diagonally.

This regulator bolts right on, nothing needs to be changed.

In 1990, E2PZ-10316-A was replaced BY FOPZ-10316-A (Motorcraft GR-540B). This is essentailly the same puppy as E2PZ-10316-A

Alternators were introduced in 1963 Thunderbirds, in everything else in 1965.