Dodged a bullet on that one! Thanks buddy!

 

Back in the early 70s I had a Ford Cortina...it would fry anything but NGKs. I have used them ever since with no problem.

 

NGK's will not touch my vehicles. I have had nothing but bad experiences with them.

 

The I strongly suggest Motorcraft, or the Autolites....

When I'm due for a new set of plugs....I'm going to Motorcraft..Just cause....

I wanna try to get as much Motorcraft back on the ol girl as possible...

 

In my 1990 f150, I ran splitfire non-platinum plugs.....i found that they complement the older style cylinder head designs, but you need to ensure that the ignition system is in good shape (wires, etc.). If yours requires platinum, then I would try motorcraft 1st.

I have also found that the Bosch +4's run very well in the late 1990/early 2000 style cylinder heads. the more modern (late model) I tend to use motorcraft as they are really an excellent plug...the ones I just installed in my 2006 5.4, I have no doubt they are made by E3- they have been in there for several months and are running fine.

 

What about E3's? I've never used them but have heard good things about them. I like the idea behind the design, kind of like side gaping.

 

I wont use them, we had a big sale at work, I got $.50 spiff for every one I sold! I pushed the hard! I got most of them back. Sold a set for a 95 SBC, he brought them back in 3 days. Burnt to a crisp, two of the the electrode were melted right out of the middle!!
Next day Same thing with a ford 3.0! One week in the car,and it quit running! 4 of the 6 plugs in bad shape, one was missing the ground electrode!!

Say NO to E3s

 

Thanks for the info!
Been thinking about them but now think I'll just side gap these and call it good.

 

FORD......Found Off Road Diggin......

Incorrect- It's

Flat Out Runs a Dodge....

Ducking...

 

F-Found
O-Offroad
R-Rescuing
D-Dodges



Simple as that...

 

I have been using Autolite copper on my Fords and Mopars but I recently had the porcelin seperate from the shell on one plug and the quality doesn't seem as good as it use to be. I always had good luck with ACs and Accels on my SBCs and Boschs on my air and water cooled VWs (all Copper). Since everyone likes the Motorcrafts I'll give them a try next. The standard Gap for my truck is .044 but I run low resistance wires and run at .050 with no issues other than an occasional cold miss and slightly longer crank times in cold weather. I change plugs out at 20k.

My 230k mile 4200 lb 4x2 95 F150 300 5 speed SC SB with 3.08s will get 16-19 mpg and still cruise easily at 80 mph.

YMMV
rikard

 

My 95 is a 300/5 speed, 3.55 gears, 4x4, 4 inch rough country suspension lift on 285/75r16's (33" tires) with nearly 191K miles. MPG has been blocked from my mind, I just keep fuel in it and enjoy the hell outta driving it. When I was checking it though, I was still able to pull 13-16 mpg on my 25 minute drive to school (mostly country roads, going 45 in 4th gear). With winter rapidly approaching I wanted to at least change the plugs, as I haven't touched them since I bought it ~1 year ago, and have no idea when the last time they were changed.

 

Hey Guys,
I have a 351W in my 54 F100. I need to change the plugs. The ones that are in there now are NGK BKR5ES-11 and gapped at .030.

First these plugs are supposed to be gapped at .044 from what i read and second are these the right / best plugs for my engine. I have a 4bbl carb with auto choke, headers, Edelbrock E-Street heads, and a bit of a cam.

You cannot just ask the guys at the parts store since they can only look up year/make/model vehicle and nothing else...drives me nuts.
Thanks

 

++ or Autolite copper whichever is cheaper/available at the time gapped 48-50 or so

 

Can someone elaborate on the idea of using the EFI plugs in a carb'd engine? I've heard of a few that do this. It apparently has a longer electrode that goes further into the cylinder. Didn't know if it's worth switching over.