It was 100 yesterday. But it got hot when I drove it to my buddies to put the gears in, in March.

 

OK at idle warmed up. These numbers are takem about 1 inch form the exhaust flange.by cylinder Number

1 - 494
2 - 350
3 - 650
4 - 300
5 - 320
6 - 600
7 - 470
8 - 542

t stat housing 170 deg
inlet to water pump on bottom 140 deg

this was after the truck sat for 30 minutes then warmed back up.

13lb radiator cap

 

#2 & 5 seem unusually low.

If the thermostat housing is only 170* that seems odd too. The thermostat should be rated at 193*

 

It did cool down I warmed it back up. So you wouldn't be scared about the 650.

I did have a header leak so I'm letting it cool to tighten the bolts.

And again it is 100 deg out.

 

You didn't take the numbers with the engine running???

650* is NOT hot for an exhaust manifold at all.

 

Yes the engine was running. I drove it all morning. Got home cooled for 30 minutes while I started my son staining our shed. went back to the truck and started it up. brought it up to temp and took the readings while running.

 

If you rev it to 2500, how long does it take for the coolant temp gauge to climb towards the 'L' side of normal?

What does the thermostat housing read then?

 

A tube with a lower-than normal temperature can suggest misfiring in that cylinder.

 

I've only done it while driving. I'll do it in the driveway.

 

So I just drove it for a while. Here's the kicker. I had a 6" section of radiator shroud missing. I riveted some aluminum into it. I couldn't hardly get it above half.

I climbed the biggest hill around in 3rd at 3000 rpms

then came home and took my readings again.

1 - 480
2 - 500
3 - 700
4 - 664
5 - 640
6 - 660
7 - 507
8 - 655

T stat housing 191
inlet to water pump 178

again ambient is 103

 

Sounds like you may have found your cooling problem. Unfortunately headers cool rapidly at idle, you don't want to see what they look like at speed. My 66 Shelby would heat them red hot or more for about 6" from the port at 60mph (3000rpm). I discovered this when I exploded a heater core then had to drive a bit with the heater out of the car.

 

I hope so. I have a 9 hour round trip ride to knoxville pulling 6500lbs there then 3000lbs home.

 

Change of subject, but did bearings fix the whine?
My T19 also whines more than I like in 3rd, under load. The gears themselves don't show wear.

 

Well it was a complete rebuild. synchros etc.

I got a kit from novak. It did not include the gears.

Mine was so bad I couldn't talk over 3rd gear. So it's fixed now and is fine.

 

Guys I really appreciate your help with this. I did a 600 mile round trip yesterday in 103 deg heat. At one point my floor boards were 130. I love my new infrared thermometer. We were taking temps of everything.

Anyway more on the heating up issue.

It did great when I was floggin it like a rented mule. Secondaries open etc.

Or at 70 turning 3000.

With my heavy load going down 6500lbs it did very good. With the lighter load it was worse, becasue the engine wasn't working so hard.

It heats up at all the wrong times when you think about motors heating up.

So here is what I've been able to narrow it down to. Over 2500 rpms when I am barely on the throttle not giving it alot of fuel it gets warm. If I let is slow down then punch it and open the secondaries it cools down in less than a minute or so.

I know my motorcycle when it's lean it'll over heat. Cna the same be said for a big block? Should I play with my jetting? As a refresher I have a 600cfm holley 4160 with 68 main jets.

What are your thoughts?