Hi Guys,


You’ll have to excuse my ignorance, I’ve been building ‘classics’ for years, 60’s and 70’s cars, this is my first real foray in to the truck domain, and loving it I must say, so so much room to work with!

Well, after much gnashing of teeth and careful consideration I have decided not to graft a modern front setup on the ’41, it’s not that it’s overly hard to do or very costly, it’s more that I’m getting older and fast is best left to my 400hp ute, oh the false confidence of airbags!!
I’ve been having a look around at options, and please correct me if I’m wrong, but it would appear that all I need (simplifying a little) are some brackets, bearing spacers / bushes.

Yes, one needs disks, callipers, lines, prop valves, master cyl etc, but those are cheap and easy to get from local sources (IE: my garage).



The question is twofold:


1 – Is there a difference in the spindle size, and if so, what is the size difference between the ‘big truck’ and standard car / pick up, meaning the actual spindle itself, the pointy bit with the taper. I see lots of bracket kits with the wheel bearing spacer / bush advertised for the car and pickup truck and want to know if these will fit my 1 ½ ton? (I’m getting confusing information from the people that sell the kits)


2 – With disks fitted, does it widen the track as I’ll be using smaller wheels for simplicities sake to start with, with a view to moving to 19.5 truck wheels a little down the track to keep the big wheel truck look, just have to research those types of wheels and offsets etc more. With smaller and wider wheels will there be clearance issues with the front guards (fenders)?

Has anyone fitted one of these simple conversions to their ‘big truck’ and which one did you use?


So far as the brake booster goes I see so many people agonising over placement and room to move etc, is there a reason people don’t use the VH-440 remote booster that is so common? I have used these on a few builds and they make life oh so easy, and you can hide them anywhere.


Then is the power steering, or as the missus would say, lack of power steering issue. The easy solution I can see here is fitting a mid 60’s to early 70’s ford power steering setup, they are an effective semi agricultural ram and pump setup that essentially connects to the drag link and chassis, independent of the steering box (pressure sensitive so you move and it helps).



Has anyone used these? I set this sort of power steering up on a mate’s tractor of all things years ago, not a lot of difference between a Massy Ferguson 20hp front end and this sweet old truck



Last but not least, and I know this should go in the classifieds (and I’ll pop this in there as well), but are there any Aussies in need of ’48 truck parts? I recently bought a ’48 5-Ton for some spares I wanted and of course another motor and box, I have no use for the cab and the chassis, has a pair of Eaton two speed diffs that go with it, all wheels are there and in nice condition (dual rears).



I’m in Canberra and the truck is near Young NSW. The lovely old fella I bought it from is happy to sell the remains to the recycler (I have no room, shame really) for scrap value, so if you interested PM me and I can work out a price etc. Principally a stripped cab and a complete chassis / steering etc.

 

Another ramble, would I be able to fit an I Beam from a 1/2 ton pickup or a car to the truck? That way it'd be nice and easy to fit up aftermarket stubs and disks...

Measuring tape time!!

 

Well I can actually answer this question... I hope its not too late? here is how you do it.
I have this exact truck and Im running with the original running gear... however then we run into the tires and wheels that suck.... here you go... if you are keeping your original setup and want the full 1.5 ton suspension.

1. Keep your front axle. Go to your local picky part yard and pull the front spindles/hubs off of any Ford f250/350 dually, or otherwise... or E250/350 Van, dually or otherwise.... preferably a dually because it already has the hub extensions on them, if not the non dually spindles and hubs will work as well just need to put the dually spacers on them when you get a chance. This is any Ford Truck or Van that has the twin I beam suspension Mid 1980's with disk brakes already on them. Vans are one piece rotor and hub, trucks are seperate hub and rotor. pull these off by knocking the king pins out of the twin I beams....

2. Now you have a complete set of Ford Spindles with Disk Brakes, 8 lug setup, from a King Pin type of Axle from the twin Ibeam.... see where were going?

3. Take your original straight axle and purchase a new set of King Pins for an 80's series Van or Truck.. whatever year you pulled the truck or van spindles from. These King Pins will be larger than the stock straight axle.... take them down to a machine shop and have them reemed for the larger size King Pins.... By extra King Pins as they are cheap.... then have the new Ford spindles, hub, disc brake assy pinned to your Original Ford Straight Axle.

4. dont that look purty? now you have new Ford 350, truck and or Van hubs/spindles with disc brakes on your original axle... fab up steering hoops to bolt on one end of them, cut down the original arms, and or rotate them or install them backwards as they will work either way.... This makes it way easier and cheaper to install power steering, disc brakes and 8 lug setup on original front suspension... piece of cake....

hope this is helpful,,, i have done this on a 36 1.5 ton, a 41 1.5ton, works great.... also,,, if you want to drop in the weeds... you can also build yourself a jig that you can heat your axle and drop it 4 inches by yourself at home with a simple drop jig and a torch with a rosebud,,, along with a press....

 

How did you do the rear axles then?