I too have wondered where your dad went. Lol. How many miles does he have on his engine now?

 

Sorry dirtydiesel, I should be more careful. I pulled up the "cam talk" thread and didn't realize you had posted a quote from NMB2, I thought you were talking about your truck...oooops!

Type4, sounds like I definitely want your cam grind, especially if it performs well to the 2,000 + rpm level. That's perfect. Now I just need to decide whether to get my tall gears with a 3.55 R&P swap or leave the 4.10's and put in a ZF. Leaning toward the gear swap because it's really hard to find ZF's in my area, and I'm thinking the GV + ZF double overdrive output of 2.43 might be a bit much. GV + 3.55's puts out 2.77. Anyone out there ever run gears that high? My current set-up GV + 4.10's puts out 3.20 and it still seems to be geared too low. I am in 4th +OD at 35mph, and at freeway speeds it still screams like it wants another gear. Might not have enough power if I go too high though. BTW, I am referring to traveling empty. I know it won't pull a load geared like that

 

tightening the bearing should help(might just have to look into that), and make them able to hold more load. i was hoping that there was an easy way like fly-milling/grinding the oil pump to tighten it up.

has anyone checked out garrett's boost adviser? Garrett Boost Adviser - Online | Turbobygarrett
according to it my turbo calcs are way off :/ it's suggesting a gxt3071r for best spool, for that matter i might as well use a gtx wheel on the ats turbo i have and get a bb replacement.

(assuming perfect)
420cu"*3500/2/1728= 425.34 cu'/min
425.34*.076=32.32lbs/min
20psi+14.7/14.7=2.3605 pressure ratio
2.3605*32.32= 76.3lbs/min @ 20psi boost @ 3500rpm

this stuff is giving me a headache lol

type4's cam goes for 190 with the core, did i read that correctly?

he says about 150k miles

 

Another way to increase oil pressure is to shim the spring. That is another cheap way to do it...

As for the cam, it is somewhere in that neighborhood price wise. Idk if it would interest you but you can also add Comp 910 springs from a PSD. Both Racin and NMB2 used them when they did their cam swap. Those springs are a bit stiffer than the stock ones...

 

but shimming the spring will do nothing for base oil pressure will it?

that will only really effect it when your rpm are up.

 

Ya I would think that it would only help more with rpm I wasn't sure when exactly you were meaning that you needed the oil pressure. I guess the first idea I suggested would be better for you then.

 

silly question, why don't we have a sticky for modification parts?

also how much do you think a set of ss return line caps would sell for? i talked the fellow at work and he said a part that we are running that is smiler is about 9 bucks a piece.
i am thinking about making myself a set and was curious if there was a good market for them.
tubes would be brazed into the bodies.

i'd really like at least 20 lbs of pressure at idle when the engine is hot.

has anyone here tried to make there own headlight housings? (projector lights installed into a housing)

 

Are you talking about 20psi of fuel pressure to the IP?

 

? nono 20 psi oil pressure (guess i need to specify more)

i would like to put a one pound check valve on the return lines to keep the fuel in them(leaves one pound of pressure in the return lines on the engine)

 

Another cool idea that I really liked is NMB2 used a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator into the IP. It just seems like it would give the IP more fuel when it is really needed. Also this may be a stupid question, but why leave a check valve on the return line?

 

doesn't our timing work somewhat off of fuel pressure? from what i am hearing the timing is some how for what ever reason partially derived from the fuel pressure. so a fuel pressure regulator would change the timing curve?

as for the check valve i guess it would be more like a fuel pressure regulator setting the fuel pressure in the return caps and filter to 1 psi to keep it there in case that there is a pin hole leak. that way you don't have to crank the fuel back up to the ip.

 

The way that his pressure regulator works is that it starts at a lower psi but don't remember what psi it starts at, maybe like 5-6psi, and then goes up to 14psi max at wide open throttle. At higher rpm the IP needs more fuel than it does at idle. That is the reason that he did that setup. And yes fuel pressure does supposedly affect timing but I'm not quite sure how much. I just think it is a setup that might have a chance to increase power compared to stock pressure levels.

 

but a fuel pressure regulator should limit the pressure not the flow.

is there anyone that has a wright up on how the ip works?

 

Nothing that I have really ever seen has showed exactly how the IP is affected by fuel pressure. Only stuff I have ever read is about the fact that it advances the timing a bit. I'm not so sure that every pump would advance the same amount anyway. It probably would all depend on the pump... Just a guess though...

 

so if you put a higher pressure lift pump on there you could keep the timing retarded so that it is quiet at idle and as the boost raises the timing moves more advanced so that the truck runs better with the higher quantity of fuel?

has anyone ever messed with the cam for the timing advance on the driver side of the ip?