so Iv been getting a battery light on the dash practicaly all summer

but havent been to worried about it since the SGII been saying its been cranking out 13.4-13.8 at all times

all I did do was clean ALL the Battery Cables and the 2 engine ground cables when I did this I noticed that the positive wire coming off the Alternator had been getting HOT and starting to melt the insulation and stuff but since I cleaned it good it stopped getting hot

then today I noticed that it would not go over 13.0volts but mostly stays around 12.8 volt and will occasionaly drop to 12.2 volt

I dont know if I jinxed it cuz I got up today and ordered a new one before I even drove the truck today from DC Power a 190amp hope thats big enough I really didnt have the money to go with the 250amp

What do you guys think this Battery light thing has had me Lost for a few now I have 1 week to get this sorted out before I go on a road trip

anything I should check that I missed

thanks Benny

 

Pull your batteries, fully charge them and have them load tested seperately. If they test good then the alt. was the correct diag. If 1 or both are bad, replace them both and install the new alt. It's bought and paid for. Have the old one bench tested and if it checks good, save it for roadside emergencies. Best info I can give at this stage with info given. Good luck and have a safe trip.

 

3 months ago I hydro tested them batts and they came up good

and the only load test Iv done is watch the SGII at startup and they will drop to 11.0 volts for 15- 30seconds or so then the GP shut off and it comes up I dont know what point you consider the batts have a problem

would this method of load test be ok or do you think I should take them into the auto part store

I know those things may not mean much but Its some of what I have done

probably better to load test each one

 

You need to take them to a shop that has a commercial load test machine. Hydro test is a good indicator of a good float charge but doesn't give a good indication of a battery under stress.

 

Yes Im with you a load test separatly would be the best

for some reason I was thinking watching the SG during crank was a good load test and it probably is for a vehicle with only one battery but the more I think about it two batterys throws the test off because one battery could be making up for say a battery with a bad cell


I will get them tested at the auto parts store

 

If you have a Harbor Freight near you:
http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp...ter-90636.html

Not a pro quality tool but works well and low buck!

 

thanks for the link Rusty I havent seen one of those before

have you used one of those before??

I have a DVM that has a load test setting but I dont think its very accurate

whats seems odd to me is Iv been down both roads of bad batterys and a bad Alternator
when the batterys went I dont remember the light coming on to much before they went they just went on a cold morning

But when the alternator went before the light was on alot before I melted it down and it grounded itself out inside

I just hope I guessed right cuz that DC Power alt was 370.00bucks
and FWIW the crank to start is still really strong

Fingers crossed thanks Guys

 

DC Power alt is the best money I have spent for an alternator. I ordered the 250amp I don't know if they were out of them or made a mistake but I received the 270. If you go this route make sure you upgrade all of your cables at the same time.

 

These alternators regularly pass a standard load test but fail the ripple test. The only way I know of running that test is with the Rotunda VMM. I had a alternator that showed 13.8-14.4 volts but the battery light would flicker on occasion. Batts tested good, alt tested good. Replaced batts and had the same issue. Then I did the ripple test and found that it failed that test even though voltage wise it was fine.

FYI you may be killing your FICM if the batts or alt are failing.

 

We had this discussion before about the AC current generated by an alternator and failing diodes. Here's some good information about checking it: http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf and more: http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/aut...e/beatbook.pdf

 

I have one like it. Been knocked around some and still works. Spends much of it's time loaned out or collecting dust but its nice to have around. Tests batteries to 1000cca.

 

thanks for the links Tim some interesting stuff there first time Iv heard of a ripple test

that alternator went 1 year and probably one day out of warrenty and the light starte coming on LOL probably made in mexico
my stereo probably killed it off

well atleast I will still have it asa backup if the DC POWER ever strands me

the guy said he would throw in a wire kit or whatever for free I helped him with the there website alittle it did sound like one wire that went from the alt to the passenger battery

I thought the wire upgrade would consist of a little more

how much wire did you guys upgrade I also kinda figured that I could pick up local IDK the wire to my stereo is bigger than any wire on the truck wish I could have went 250amp

 

that alternator cant come to soon voltage is going downhill fast

4 days ago it was pumping 13.8 volts average today its right around 13.1-12.8 volts if it gets down to less than 12 volts its all over cme on FED EX guy

But that ripple voltage describes the way my alternator acts to a Tee

I tend to think that if a battery lost a cell or had a baD cell my voltage would stay really low and I would really notice it during startup

might be wishful thinking but I really dont think its a bad battery
lots of good testes in that second link I will go try the ones I can I dont have the inductive AMP meter though
IDK go 6.0 go

 

a question to you guys with gauges Iv never really had gauges to watch my volts before does you guys volt gauge seem to holds steady or does it bounce around ALOT


my volts bounces alot and the battery light is off/on ALOT

 

thanks for all the help guys

I reped everyone
catch ya later rusty gotta spread some first but thanks again