I think those "tube-like looking jobbys" you're talking about is the EGR system. And no, there's no provision for EGR on these headers. I don't know about Utah emissions laws, but they likely won't pass without the EGR if it came from the factory that way. But, I do believe the Hedman's did get an EO number issued, so the headers themselves should be "50-state" legal.

 

Is that a technical term???

 

Quick update -

After living with the exhaust leak for a couple of weeks, I finally got a chance to crawl under the truck in the daylight and give the headers a thorough inspection. I'd have done it sooner, but with all the snow, and then the melting snow, and then more snow, and then blowing snow, I wasn't very motivated.

It turns out that the manifold bolts were pretty tight, as were the CAT flange bolts. But, the collector bolts were all loose - both sides. I'm not sure if the nuts had backed off, if the bolts stretched, or if the collector joints just seated better than they were. But, each of the nuts took about a quarter-inch or more of thread before getting tight.

So, it's all tightened up now, and there's no more exhaust leaks. We'll see if it stays that way.

EDIT: After looking at the pics from the original install, I would have to say that the nuts didn't back off. So, either the bolts have stretched, or the collector joints have seated differently. I'm betting on the bolts stretching. I'll keep an eye on 'em.

 

I have had these Hedman headers for a couple years now. I can say the only problem is the collector flange bolts. Lost mine the first day.
Second set loosened in two days.
Welded the nut and after two weeks leaked again. Joint was loose.
Locking washers, no help.
Double nutted for a while, still loosened.
Double nut with fine thread bolts, still loosen.
Broken bolts, replace.
Now the flanges are much closer together and the original bolt length is too long, down to the area of bolt without threads.
All thread bolts, double nutted, still loosens about every two months.

I believe the collector gets the movement from the engine to chassis. The slight back and forth causes the collector to loosen and possible push inside, pipe stretch or something. The collector flanges on my truck are at least 2 inches closer than when first installed.

 

I'm having basically the same thing. Like you, I think the ball-and-socket is collapsing over time. It SHOULD stop at some point - I hope.

I've thought about using some pretty strong springs, about 1.5-2 inches long uncompressed, tightening the bolts down far enough to almost fully collapse the springs and then leaving it and see what happens. Gotta find some good springs for that though. If they'll even fit with the amount of room I have in certain areas.

I think I'm going to contact Hedman about it - maybe they have some words of wisdom on the subject.

 

I'd get some replacement Grade 8 bolts and some mechanical locking locknuts to put on it. You can't use a nylok it will just melt but you can use the distorted thread or other type mechanical locknuts.

 

dkf, I've already done that, AND double-nutted it, and they still came loose. Twice.

Frustrating... I'm hoping that the ball-and-socket collector eventually stops slipping together more and more

 

I guess that is probably why Doug Thorley does not use that type of connection then. Worse case cut the sections out, slip over a piece of exhaust pipe and weld completely around each joint. Then send Hedman the bill for botching the design. They obviously must not have done much R&D on that set.

 

Welding has been a thought. But I think there is flex and movement causing it. Weld a solid piece and something else is going to crack. The header to head connection have stayed tight with Summit locking bolts. Never had one of those come loose. They would be a bigger PIA to fix or tighten regularly. Agree bad design on collector but otherwise great fit everywhere else.

 

I very highly doubt you will notice an issue welding it solid. Look at the design of the Doug Thorley headers has a clamped slip fit at 2 points where the pipe coming off the drivers side bank is attached. There are no ball/socket connections. After several years those connections didn't budge at all.

Here is a pic of the Thorley setup on my truck.

 

I was thinking that a flexible exhaust section between the cat and the Y-pipe flange might help.

 

So i got a retarded question

which is better in the headers area.

ceramic coating VS stainless steel

 

Ceramic coated stainless steel.

Seriously I'd rather have stainless headers vs factory cermamic coated steel. The ceramic coating starts to bubble and develop rust. Sending the headers off to a company that does coating yields a better job but costs a chunk of money with shipping. The ceramic header paint works ok at helping to keep rust down and heat in but it is what it is.

 

Since I (and others) have been having issues with the ball-and-socket joints leaking on these headers, I sent an email to Hedman's tech support to see what they have to say about it.

...will keep you posted.

 

Just tightened mine up AGAIN - I replaced their bolts which were actually bending, with grade-8's. I don't see where the slack is coming from - the rings are not bending all that far, and aren't continually moving. I'm beginning to suspect that the socket side of the collector is expanding (or the ball is contracting?).

Each tightening lasts about 2-3 weeks and then I get a leak again. The driver's side is usually the one, but the passenger side has been loosening up a little each time too...

I'd really hate to tack the thing with my mig welder