Ok, so I bought this 83 f-150 2 years ago. It's important to tell you that one time something burned up and filed the cab with smoke. I had to bail out the smoke was that bad. Any how, the truck continued to run fine. Then the gosh darn clutch bracket assy. shattered on me. So pulled out the steering column and the pedals. Put it back it and everything was gravy except I didn't have any brake lights. This truck has a ton of wiring and rewiring on it so I just got a hot wire that worked off the switch and got brake lights.(this wire was just dangling) Now, I have no turn signals and running lights and the truck won't shut off when the key is turned to the off position. I do have flashers though. I pulled off the starter switch on the column and worked it manually. Still won't shut the truck off. Also when you kill the truck, something drains the battery dead. Soo, my main question is, if the starter switch is bad, will that take my brakes, runners and turns? And if anyone has a wiring diagram for idiots I sure would appreciate it! Thanks for reading!

 

If the truck won't shut off then it's still getting spark, that's why your battery is draining.

I would remove the dash, and instrument cluster/bezel and such and just start looking for bad wires. It sounds like it might be in the steering column.

 

Think maybe I shorted something when I installed the new clutch bracket?

 

Best thing to do is get yourself a factory wiring diagram. Used automobile literature places typically have 'em, sometimes eBay also.

The fire in the cab - was it electrical?

 

Yes, definitely something electrical. Never did find out what it was. I'm going to pull everything out of it today and see if I can't figure it out. I know last time I had a hard time trying to get the gauge cluster off. Hopefully better luck this time.

 

You'll have to remove the headlight & wiper *****, here's from Franklin2's diagrams showing how to use a hook tool to remove the wiper ****:



For the headlights, it depends... some ***** can be removed as described
above, others are glued to the stalk and need to be removed by reaching
under the dash and pushing a button on the switch itself, releasing the ****
+ shaft as a single unit. Something similar to:

 

Chris, your responses with simple and clear diagrams are very helpful. I tried to "rep" you, but was told to share the wealth.

 

I took care of it for you.

 

Thank you, Grubbworm!

 

No Problem.

 

Thanks a lot for the diagrams there buddy! If only I would have looked at them about 6 hours ago.. Tried to beat the heat and tear it apart this morning. Found one wire that was completely melted coming into the headlight switch. It was shorted onto two other wires coming into the headlight switch. The weird thing was that the White Brown wire which was the main problem was melted at both ends until it went into the wire bundle. So anyhow, Now just got to fix the wire ops check everything and remember how to put all those screws back where they came from.. My only other question would be do you think that this 3 way short has anything to do with the motor not shutting off? Thanks for the replies fellas. Huge help!

 

Thanks, guys!

That tan/white-stripe wire is problematic on just about all Ford products during this time, Ford wouldn't spend a nickel more to build a car or truck if they didn't have to and they chose the thinnest wire they could get away with.

Go look in the junkyard at the mid-70s through, I dunno, at least early to mid-90s cars & trucks, sometimes you'll run across one that somebody has taken apart and you can see that tan/white wire is sometimes pretty melted.

What the heck is "...fix the wire ops check...?"

I pretty much doubt it but I haven't looked at a wiring diagram in a while now so I won't say "definitely not." I guess it's possible melted wires from the lighting circuits could have crossed with the ignition circuits but again....

..well, here is something you can do to help us help you, what colors are the wires that are melted together?

 

Yep, I tried as well, but I have to spread the love...


It is possible to back feed the Ignition switch with power to cause a problem you describe. However it's not that likely.

The colors of the affected wires would indeed help.

 

Sorry my language is confusing, thats the jet mechanic in me talkin.. Ops check is a system operation check.. Meaning I wanted to make sure that the lights and other issues were fixed before I put everything back together..

The only other color that I can remember was a solid Brown wire and I think it was a gray purple, but I'm not 100% on that one.. Definitely the solid brown one though.

Is the White Brown the feed for the lighting system? I apologize for the corny questions I tried looking at the wiring diagram in the chiltons manual and couldn't really figure it out.. Thanks again guys I sure appreciate it.

 

The solid brown wire feeds power to all the orange & red marker (aka running aka parking) lamps, roof-mounted markers (if installed) as well as license plate illumination. Possibly even more with Trailer or Camper Special packages.

The 1981 factory wiring diagram says about that wire:

Circuit 195 taillamp switch feed

I can see it seems to begin life in a splice from which the cigar lighter & horn are fed power but I can't tell what the headlamp switch does with that wire (although I'd guess it feeds the rear parking lights).