Fuel Tank Repair
#1
Fuel Tank Repair
I just finished sandblasting the Auxiliary Fuel Tank on my 71 Camper Special. When I got all the rust off of it I found a small pin hole that had rusted through.
Does anyone have any suggestion on how to fix this? Do I need to find a new tank? My first thought was to fill it with water and then weld it up, but I’m not sure how easy it would be to dry it out afterwards. Would epoxy of some sort work?
When I put the tank back in I will paint it with a rust inhibitor of some sort. I have been coating the frame with POR-15 but I am going to switch to an Eastwood Rust Encapsulator for the rest of the under side of the truck, and the engine compartment. The Auxiliary Tank will become my mane tank. I am not putting the tank back in the cab.
Does anyone have any suggestion on how to fix this? Do I need to find a new tank? My first thought was to fill it with water and then weld it up, but I’m not sure how easy it would be to dry it out afterwards. Would epoxy of some sort work?
When I put the tank back in I will paint it with a rust inhibitor of some sort. I have been coating the frame with POR-15 but I am going to switch to an Eastwood Rust Encapsulator for the rest of the under side of the truck, and the engine compartment. The Auxiliary Tank will become my mane tank. I am not putting the tank back in the cab.
#2
#3
#4
Thanks for the help guys; I may use both options if filling the tank with water wont hurt it then I am defiantly going to weld it up. If I plug all of the openings I could probably put a few pounds of air pressure in it to make sure I get all the leaks. After that if there is a way to line the inside of tank that would be great. How is the sealer applied to the inside of the tank? Is it some sort of polyurethane that is expanded with steam (like sewer pipe lineing)?
Thanks again
Chad
Thanks again
Chad
#5
I have soldered gas tanks many times. Heat-but no flame. We had a large iron that could be heated with a torch, then do the soldering. I large wattage electric iron may work as well. We lived on a ranch 8 miles off the highway, and the road was covered in big rocks that would puncture the tanks.
You can also hook a hose up to your exhaust, leave the engine running, and flood the inside of the tank with the carbon monoxide mix coming out of your exhaust which isn't flammable, then weld or braze the tank.
As an alternative-I once installed a new outlet in the behind seat tank of my 70 F-100 due to a fuel starvation problem. I removed the tank, used a center punch to poke a hole in the lower left corner (just off the bottom). I then stuck in a piece of metal fuel line and filled the divot left by the center punch with JB Weld. It was just supposed to be temporary (I was on the road), but years later it is still that way, and it's never leaked a drop!
You can also hook a hose up to your exhaust, leave the engine running, and flood the inside of the tank with the carbon monoxide mix coming out of your exhaust which isn't flammable, then weld or braze the tank.
As an alternative-I once installed a new outlet in the behind seat tank of my 70 F-100 due to a fuel starvation problem. I removed the tank, used a center punch to poke a hole in the lower left corner (just off the bottom). I then stuck in a piece of metal fuel line and filled the divot left by the center punch with JB Weld. It was just supposed to be temporary (I was on the road), but years later it is still that way, and it's never leaked a drop!
#6
And for the in tank sealer-you can get it in gallons. You pour it in,then you just turn the tank over and over in all directions until the entire inside is coated and then let it dry. I have used it when restoreing rusty tanks, it is claimed to encapsulate the rust flakes and so on to keep them from getting in your system.
#7
Originally Posted by 1Fordnatic
I have soldered gas tanks many times. Heat-but no flame. We had a large iron that could be heated with a torch, then do the soldering. I large wattage electric iron may work as well. We lived on a ranch 8 miles off the highway, and the road was covered in big rocks that would puncture the tanks.
You can also hook a hose up to your exhaust, leave the engine running, and flood the inside of the tank with the carbon monoxide mix coming out of your exhaust which isn't flammable, then weld or braze the tank.
As an alternative-I once installed a new outlet in the behind seat tank of my 70 F-100 due to a fuel starvation problem. I removed the tank, used a center punch to poke a hole in the lower left corner (just off the bottom). I then stuck in a piece of metal fuel line and filled the divot left by the center punch with JB Weld. It was just supposed to be temporary (I was on the road), but years later it is still that way, and it's never leaked a drop!
You can also hook a hose up to your exhaust, leave the engine running, and flood the inside of the tank with the carbon monoxide mix coming out of your exhaust which isn't flammable, then weld or braze the tank.
As an alternative-I once installed a new outlet in the behind seat tank of my 70 F-100 due to a fuel starvation problem. I removed the tank, used a center punch to poke a hole in the lower left corner (just off the bottom). I then stuck in a piece of metal fuel line and filled the divot left by the center punch with JB Weld. It was just supposed to be temporary (I was on the road), but years later it is still that way, and it's never leaked a drop!
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#8
Originally Posted by 1Fordnatic
And for the in tank sealer-you can get it in gallons. You pour it in,then you just turn the tank over and over in all directions until the entire inside is coated and then let it dry. I have used it when restoreing rusty tanks, it is claimed to encapsulate the rust flakes and so on to keep them from getting in your system.
How do you know how much to pour in? Do you pour the exes out after you believe the inside to be coverd?
#9
Originally Posted by whitetrash
Now that’s not a bad idea “carbon monoxide” I would have never thought of that. I’m not sure I would feel as safe not knowing for sure if he tank was full of carbon monoxide. Would you leave the exhaust tube running into it while you weld? or just fill it up then remove the exhaust tube?
#10
Originally Posted by whitetrash
How do you know how much to pour in? Do you pour the exes out after you believe the inside to be coverd?
#11
Some of the tank sealers come in a kit including a pre-treatment/cleaner, rust inhibitor and a sealer. I threw an old piece of chain from my kids swing set with the cleaner to knock any rust flakes loose. Hung the tank upside down by the hole in the bottom right corner and let it drain for a few days.
#12
Originally Posted by CN Spots
Some of the tank sealers come in a kit including a pre-treatment/cleaner, rust inhibitor and a sealer. I threw an old piece of chain from my kids swing set with the cleaner to knock any rust flakes loose. Hung the tank upside down by the hole in the bottom right corner and let it drain for a few days.
Thanks
Chad
#13
Originally Posted by whitetrash
I just finished sandblasting the Auxiliary Fuel Tank on my 71 Camper Special. When I got all the rust off of it I found a small pin hole that had rusted through.
Does anyone have any suggestion on how to fix this? Do I need to find a new tank? My first thought was to fill it with water and then weld it up, but I’m not sure how easy it would be to dry it out afterwards. Would epoxy of some sort work?
When I put the tank back in I will paint it with a rust inhibitor of some sort. I have been coating the frame with POR-15 but I am going to switch to an Eastwood Rust Encapsulator for the rest of the under side of the truck, and the engine compartment. The Auxiliary Tank will become my mane tank. I am not putting the tank back in the cab.
Does anyone have any suggestion on how to fix this? Do I need to find a new tank? My first thought was to fill it with water and then weld it up, but I’m not sure how easy it would be to dry it out afterwards. Would epoxy of some sort work?
When I put the tank back in I will paint it with a rust inhibitor of some sort. I have been coating the frame with POR-15 but I am going to switch to an Eastwood Rust Encapsulator for the rest of the under side of the truck, and the engine compartment. The Auxiliary Tank will become my mane tank. I am not putting the tank back in the cab.
The collector car crowd has been using an inside coating to salvage gas tanks since the '70s, it was originally borrowed from aircraft repair and the modern version stands up to alcohol and other additives in gas just great, you just pour it in, cover the whole inside of the tank, then pour out the remainder and let it cure. Your Eastwood catalog ought to have it listed, ISTR all the old car vendors are getting it packaged by Bill Hirsch Auto so maybe you can save a few bucks if you shop around
#14
Well I successfully welded all the holes in my tank using 1Fordnatics idea to run the exhaust through the tank while welding. It worked flawlessly as I’m sure you can tell because I am still here and able to post. I painted the outside of the tank with POR-15, and I am now waiting for a “Gas Tank Sealer Kit” from Eastwood to seal the inside of the tank.
<O</O
Thank all of you for your help. I will be in need of much more as the project continues.
<O</O
Thank all of you for your help. I will be in need of much more as the project continues.