I have a bone stock 1983 300. I'm going to send it to get rebuilt soon. I want to put a more aggressive cam in it and a 4 barrel intake manifold from Offenhauser and an exhaust manifold from an EFI 300 because they are slightly bigger. I'd like some suggestions on what cam I should put it and what carburetor CFM I should go with. I have the BW T-19 transmission but I'd like to put a 5 speed behind it at some point. It's pretty much a cruiser with occasional towing/hauling.

 

Most of the cam companies do not have cam cores.
See if you can find a Melling MTF-6
Next cam up from there that might be available is the Comp 260H (66-237-4)

Use a 390 or 450 cfm 4 barrel carburetor.

Which pistons are you planning on using?

 

I'm not sure yet, I'll probably bore .030 over and rause the compression a bit. Any recommendations for pistons?

 

There are only two pistons readily available that will give you the highest compression.
If you deck the block so the pistons are even with the top of the block at TDC the compression ratio will be 8.7

FORD Silvolite 1186H.030 Silv-O-Lite Hypereutectic Pistons | Summit Racing
FORD Silvolite 3171H.030 Silv-O-Lite Hypereutectic Pistons | Summit Racing

 

Are you planning on doing any headwork to get it to flow better? Larger valves, porting/polishing, etc?
Or leaving the head stock?

 

Considering the cam has such critical importance to the engines performance and life, to me it makes sense to use a cam grinder who will talk with you directly- even modify the cam grind to fit your needs even better and to address the possibility of cam lobe failure with the new oils. When it comes to making an engine breathe, there are so many variables including elevation, humidity, fuel blends/available octane, most cam mfgs will vary a "core grind pattern" to match the external impactors in addition to the internal impactors- which today IMHO makes the different between and engine that runs well, to one that just seems to run a little bit better, smoother and gets better mileage than expected. With regards to price...the difference is nil- especially considering its cheap insurance to know exactly who is machining such a critical part for your engine. And remember, advertised lift/duration/lobe separation is just that- advertised and not the specific grind including ramp profile that is used on the cam.

I highly recommend Iskenderian (who I personally know to this day physically tests/inspects every single valve spring before it leaves the shop) & Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati...all are family owned, been grinding cams for decades, and both will even re-grind your oem cam if possible- saving you even more $. Ron (the son has had the shop for several decades now) has invested in digital computer cam grinding equipment so they can literally vary a cam profile in minutes or combine the best of 2 different profiles to meet your needs.

You will read alot about Clifford Research (6=8)..... the father started off in a small community outside of lake Arrowhead called Cedar Glen. I worked at a gas station he would buy from and in general, he was basically a nice guy, but he liked his alcohol drinks.... so when he would come in, sometimes he was ok other times well, you just worked to get him out of there. The son took over the business after he passed away eventually moving to Temecula IIRR but in short, things may have changed but, if there were specialty parts (adapters, etc.) that you needed he was the go to place, otherwise there was no real benefit to purchasing from them IMHO.