I'm a "newbe" to the bodywork forum so I apologize for asking some age old Q's.

I know there are some of you who can refer me to the appropriate posts so please do. I've gone through a few pages of recent posts but grow tired of searching.

I want to do my body work RIGHT this time so I'm chucking the fiberglass and am now the proud owner of a Lincoln 3200 HD wirefeed welder (I've wanted/needed one for a LONG time - not just for body work).

Q#1... Is the 3200 a decent welder for bodywork? (please don't hurt me). Posts on wirefeed welding replacement panels?

Q#2... looks like discussion of other sources for replacement panels is a no-no. Any discussion of who to avoid?

Q#3...I like the look of the '94 fender flares. I think I can weld in the rear fender panel, but will a '94 front fender fit an '82 (full size Bronco)? I have so much rust, I'm just going to go with new front fenders.

I started to do a workover on the body a year ago with fiberglass - against a bodywork/friends' recommendation. He was right - fiberglass fixes will pop and crack. At least I haven't cut my hands open squeezing by it since and it doesn't look like the body is about to fall off.

'Seen lots of great bodywork posts and I will be digesting them as the need arises.

First post... not the last... THANKS

 

Hey Broncr - Welcome to the Bodywork Forum.

I'll pull up the posts you're looking for this evening. Check back tomorrow and I'll have some links for you.

What are you referring to when you mention "Fiberglass"? Are you talking about body filler?

 

Thanks for responding. I have a friend who patched his rust circles above the fenders on his '85 Bronco with fiberglass fabric & resin - layer after layer (after removing ALL the rust). He filled large voids and formed the edges and curves of the entire wheel opening (damaged area) that way. I did the same and it served a purpose - getting rid of those dangerous sharp edges. It actually looked pretty good - for a while. After a bit over a year, some of the seams have "popped". My friend doesn't mind doing it over and over. He has a lot of time on his hands... he's a pretty good painter & has offered to paint mine for free (labor).

I'm curious about the wire feed welder...sounds like using the gas shielding would improve weld quality... but the manual refers to using sheilding only for aluminum (MIG) welding with a reversed polarity hookup. I'll have to read more... (old school stick welder - recent convert).

 

Sorry Broncr - I've looked everywhere to find answers to your questions and no luck.

I've sent out for reinforcements and give it a day or two and hopefully some of your questions will be answered.

Again - Sorry I couldn't do more.

 

Your time and consideration is much appreciated. The least I can be is patient...

PS Hey Carlene, ya s'pose I oughta let up on maaco?

 

NO - I'm sending you a PM - read it.

 

I would use reverse polarity on body work because if you didn't the metal might warp, or blow a hole through it. Reverse polarity means that the arc would jump from the metal (positively charged) to the wire (negatively charged) and that would mean that the metal would not get as hot as the wire would there fore giving the metal less of a chance to warp or melt enough to blow a hole through it. Also, make sure the heat (current) is turned down to help out. I haven't welded on bodywork, but from what I've learned by welding thin metals, that's the way to go. And if I were you, I'd still ask some one who is a pro before going off and doing it, I've only been welding for about 2 years now, what I've told you is what I've personally experienced. I think that welding is a very valuable skill that is fun as well as rewarding.

 

Thank you for taking the time and consideration to respond. I'll be practicing on the "parts" truck first...

 

When welding sheet metal, be careful not to blow holes in it.
One way to avoid this is to bump the trigger on the mig.
Also when you weld two pieces of sheet metal together, the overlap has no corrosion protection, due to the mig burning off the primer. They make a weld through coating you put on your two pieces of sheet metal, this will give you corrosion protection.
Another alternative is to use panel adhesive. This adhesive is for non structual panels. It works great. The cost for one tube is about 30 bucks. Put it in a calk gun and apply. You can find these products at an auto parts supply store that carry's body shop supplys.

zanny

 

Would it be redundant to "Add" some spot welds at the"corners" of a repair area & then use the panel adhesive? I'm a little hesitant to go with anything less than an all metal repair...

 

No it would not be redundent. A lot of people are not comfortable with the panel adhesive. Its fairly new to the market. But a lot of auto manufactures are using it more and more.
Besides, it would give you practice welding. Also, check snap on or matco tools. They carry a flange tool-punch combo. This tool will put a half inch flange in your sheet metal for overlap. It also punches quarter inch holes in sheet metal for spot welding. The flange depth is the thickness of your sheet metal.
I did both rear wheel wells with rust repair panels on my truck.
One side I welded and the other side I used panel adhesive.
These repairs have been on the truck for three years. The welded side is starting to rust through. The adhesive side is still good.
Just remember corosion protection.

zanny

 

Any idea (about) how much the flange-tool punch tool runs? Sounds like another good idea. Yes I'm one of those old farts who like to see something work for a while before I buy in. That's why my Bronco is an '82 and the engine is a 300-6. Thanks again for the info...

 

Yeah, when I repair something, I want it to last a long time.
An old friend of mine owns a body shop. When ever I get layed off. I go and work for him.(electrician by trade). A few years ago when my truck started rusting out around the wheel wells, we both decided to weld one side and use the adhesive on the other.
He was skeptical about the adhesive, I wasn't. So we did this little experiment. He was more concerned about separation of the adhesive from the body panel. In the body shop biz you have to back up your repair for one year. When you weld a quarter panel on it will take a couple of years to rust through. If you notice on your rig, around the wheel well, you have two pieces of sheet metal sandwiched together and spot welded. That's where the rust starts. Here's the tool info. www.northerntool.com item number 15826. cost:$60.00.

zanny

 

It will be interesting to hear the results of your experiment. $30 a tube is a bit steep, but if it can truely eliminate the welding, a lot of guys are going to like it (and it MIGHT be cost effective - compared to welding). I'd honestly have to say I'd like to see a few more years of road on the experiment. How's it look so far?

 

I understand being skeptical. Any type of new technology,people are hessitant. I never liked fuel injection. But now i like it.
The adhesive side still looks great. No separation at all. The welded side is rusting through. So now I have to repair that side again. I will use adhesive. I'm sold. The adhesive I use is made by 3m. They back up the repair for the life of the vehicle. If it separates they will pay for all material and labor to fix it. Go to www.3m.com for specs and strength tests. They guarentee no separation, even if you get hit in that area of repair.

zanny