Hopefully someone in here has seen something similar to what I'm about to describe.

I have a 99 Ford Expedition 4x4 with the 5.4L engine.

I can't get it to start. It will crank over and every once in a while you can hear where a couple cylinders maybe fire and it kinda studders like it wants to start but then it stops trying. Smells like gas as though it's flooded. Puffing out black exhaust as I try to keep it running by pumping the accelerator.

On a couple attempts (days apart) it started, revved up maybe 1000 rpm and cut out and died. Both times this happened on the first attempt to start for the day.

I have also tried pulling the fuel pump relay and on a couple attempts had it start and die within a second or two.

I've checked the following.

Fuel Pressure: 40psi, after switching the ignition on... and it stays at 40psi for over 10 minutes. So... the flooding I don't believe to be caused by a bad "open" injector or two. Am I wrong with that thought?

When cranking the engine the fuel pressure guage deflects a few psi about every second. Which if the injectors were all firing in order wouldn't it make some sort of rythm faster than that?

Coil over Plug packs: Firing, I have spark

Injectors: I don't have noid lights so I can't test till I get them. However, while cranking with my voltmeter on one of them I get about 10vdc so if it's a pulse width modulated signal then maybe I am getting the signal?
---- sprayed a couple squirts of gas and it kinda trys to start again

Crank Sensor: Tested fine and have voltage to the connector, plus rpm works when it trys to start and studders.

Cam Sensor: Tested fine.... BUT... when I check for voltage across the two sockets on the connector, I do NOT get any voltage reading what so ever with the ignition ON.

With the ignition OFF, I checked for continuity from each socket in the connector to the chassis. On one I get almost perfect continutiy 0.03 ohms. On the other I get around 15 ohms, which I am assuming according to the diagram, this looks to be the wire to the PCM?

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If the system doesn't see the signal from the cam sensor at all, what would be the symptoms? Would it just keep pumping fuel into the same couple cylinders as it thinks its on to start with and never fire the others?

The Theft light does not flash rapidly as others have asked in other forums.

It has not yet set a fault code... which I have had it studdering for a couple minutes at a time and still no fault code. No misfire codes or banks too rich or anything.

I also saw where another person had a 99 exp with the 5.4L where it appeared to be doing the same as mine and they ended up fixing it by have the PCM reset, not just with pulling the battery leads, but I guess actually reflashing or updating the PCM's program? Has anyone else heard of this?

I have called 4 ford dealerships in the area and they all tell me it won't do any good to reflash it, that the PCM would be bad and that they can't do it if I just bring the PCM only in. Shouldn't that be possible out of vehicle?

How do I know if the problem is PCM or ECU? What else can I check? Should I be getting voltage at the CAM sensor just as it states I should in the chilton and haynes manuals? Since I don't have the voltage to the cam sensor, what could cause that?

Thanks everyone in advance for any help!

 

Just a thought - do you have the Ford System 3/4 Security System? Has a little flashing light below the steering wheel? If you do, there is a micro switch about 4" behind that flashing red light (on the wiring) that, if pushed, releases the ignition to start.
You might also reset the entire alarm system, see this post for directions.

If you have a spare ignition key - try it. The chip on your key can be faulty and preventing the car to start. The Dealer can make you a new one.

 

Thanks for the reply Boat Tug... I don't believe so, but I will definately take a look when I get back home tonight. I will check for the led light and the micro switch. I know I haven't seen a siren mouted in the engine compartment, but then again I suppose the factory might just use the horns?

I do have a second key, and I have tried it with the same results. I know with my explorer if I use the wrong key sometimes it fires for a second and dies, so that is what prompted me to try the other key. I should have mentioned that.

Even if I don't find the light or switch I may just try the procedure listed anyway.

If there any indicator on the dash that blinks or flashes a certain way if a key isn't recognized? Guess I have never paid attention on my explorer to see if the theft light blinks a certain way or anything.

 

Well, if your XP doesn't have a Sys 3/4 Sec. Sys. then a 'reset' like I linked to is probably is not something that will work. This Ford Sec Sys has a siren so it can 'chirp'.

Like I said, it was just a thought because of no-start problems I've had in the past.

 

I think you have a two wire CMP sensor on the 5.4. It is a variable reluctor and does not use VREF or Vpower signal. So you prolly won't see any voltage with a DMM.

The PCM uses the CKP sensor to figure out when cylinder #1 is at TDC by monitoring for the missing tooth on the 36-1 pulse wheel on the crankshaft. When the PCM determines that #1 piston is at TDC, it still doesn't know if its at TDC on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke.

That's where the CMP sensor comes in. Since the crank makes two revolutions to one of the camshaft, its the CMP sensor that clues the PCM into which stroke it is on. Thats how the PCM knows when to fire which injector. I think your 5.4 also uses COP ignition, and the PCM uses the same CMP signal to determine which COP to fire. (It doesn't 'waste' a spark on the exhaust stroke of a COP system like it would on a coil pack system).

If the PCM doesn't get a signal from the CMP sensor it doesn't know what injector to fire or which COP to fire. Some models will try some random combinations in hopes of hitting it right. (Once the RPMs get above 350(?)it knows its got it right and can keep going. Once its got it right, it doesn't need the CMP anymore.

If the PCM doesn't get a signal from the CMP you should get a P0340 code, which you don't have. Will your scan tool read codes above P1xxx (which are mfg specific codes)?

Be sure the vacuum hose is connected to your Fuel pressure regulator and has no vacuum leaks. Also a leaking FPR could cause a rich condiction.

Pumping the gas pedal may cause a rich mixture. As you said it appears to be flooded, try holding the pedal to the floor while cranking it over. The PCM will see the WOT throttle position sensor signal and cut off the injectors to try and clear the engine of the flooded condiction.

 

The catalytic converters could be plugged. Remove the O2 sensors before the cats and see if it will start and stay running.

 

This an old post
But did you ever figure out the problem with your truck?
I have the same problem there is current in spark plugs
Pressure is 40 psi
Changed the PCM and camshaft position sensor and still won't start.
1999 navigator 5.4 32v

 

What about the crankshaft position sensor?
Did you try starting fluid to try and rule out if it is a fuel delivery issue?

 

I have not changed the crank sensor
But It did start with starting fluid but it took a while to start maybe around 30 min
However the fuel pressure is 40 psi
And fuel pump works and injectors work

 

Are there a lot of miles on the spark plugs?

 

New spark plugs, fuel filter, PCM and cam position sensor.
Also theft light not on.
Could ground cables enable the car to acuatlly start?

 

I don't understand what you mean by that.

 

For example, the ground cable that come from the engine block that connect to the chassis. Also the negative terminal of the battery the connects to the body or chassis of the vehicle.
I'm going to buy my crank sensor and see what happens

 

I don't understand your ground questions either, but if the engine cranks over happily you have an adequate ground on the engine.


When you turn the ignition key on to the "RUN" position (not the crank position) your check engine light should light. Then when you advance the key to the crank position, if the PCM sees a CKP signal it will turn the check engine light off. So if the light turns off while cranking I wouldn't think you have a CKP sensor problem.


Earlier you mentioned that there is "current in the sparkplugs". What does that mean? Are the plugs throwing a spark? A nice bright blue spark that you can hear "snap"?

 

Yes I meant ground on the engine.
I checked yesterday around 9:00am there was spark not that loud but you could see the spark. However today there is no spark. This is turning to a nightmare any suggestions?