Hi, im going to be putting a 4" lift on my truck soon with 35in tires and was wondering if i need to extend the drive shaft. Its a 95 ford bronco. Thanks

 

Nope, driveshafts will be fine.

 

I have read that you need 6" lift for 35"s. 4" will get clearance for 33"s.

 

honestly it depends on your truck. my truck fits 32X11.50 with stock hight, but my friends 91 bronco fits 33's on his stock hight and barely scrubs the radius arms, it depends on what the factory 4x4 lift is. a 4inch lift will work but the tires will have clearance like mine do in my picture, a 4 inch lift doesnt give you a true 4 inches most of the time. but you should be ok.

 

35's will fit with a 4" lift and may only require the front bumper spaced out some and the plastic valance under the bumper removed. Also dont plan on going offroad at all with that setup as the tire will make a lot of contact with the body causing damage to the tire or fenders.

 

Yep 35's with 4" of lift is a nice "show" look but impractical if you intend to use the truck off-road. Stock driveshaft length is fine with up to 6" of suspension lift with most kits. just make absolutely certain you follow the manufacturers recommendations for axle shimming to keep the geometry correct. Otherwise you will become an expert at replacing u-joints... every few months.

punkandpissed is right about the actual final ride height with the kit installed. Variances in springs and other components will dictate the actual gain in lift. Honestly, my Tuff Country 4" got me the full 4" up front but nearly 6" out back. That didn't really hurt my feelings but it did make the decision for me as to whether or not to add a 1.5" leveling kit to the front. Added it and the truck sat dead level... I mean a 48" level held to the bottom of the rocker panel in the garage and the bubble was dead center.

 

the lift will work just fine if u push the front axle forward and trim the front bumper u can clear 37s easy

 

with the TTB, you can only move the front end about 1" forward. and 37's wont clear the fenders on a 4" lift with out additional fender work. Perhaps it will on a solid axle equiped rig though.

 

37s, axle pushed 1.5 inches forward. 4 inch lift, with 1 inch spacer on the front(sorry forgot to tell you that Joe) and a bumper trim only.






And, yes I do take it into the dirt..... The tires clear fine.. Main thing is the rim backspacing and tire width

 

That's all well and good, 37's are heavy... they WILL cause premature bearing, u-joint and bushing deterioration. That much unsprung weight is a lot harder on the 1/2-ton suspension parts than 35's which is the top end recommendation for the standard D44 front axle.

And I'm still not sold on how this works with the TTB axle since the axle pivot points are fixed. Its not like you can just slide them forward without some serious modification.

 

suprisingly many have done this over on FSB with good results for many years with no abnormal wear. is it best practice? probably not but it will work

 

The pivot points are bushings, they are made to have some missalingnment. Its how a TTB works. As the tire goes up and down it moves in a arc, so front to bacl you could say. All you do is move the radius arm brackets, and get a good alinment done. Its reaally easy expecally if you do it same time as a lift. It won't make the bushing go out any faster. Aand a skinny 37 on aluminum isn't more wt than a wide 35 in steel. Yes its harder on parts vs stock, but if. You do regular maintanance like you should, it shouldn't be a issue.

Bottom line, any mods over stock can be argued that its "harder" on things.

But keep in mind, when you lift and add bigger tires, you should upgrade/replace the bushings, put lower gears in, and its a good idea, when you have it apart put new ujoints in it. The only issue I have had with my TTB is I split a Carrier in it. And guess what, same thing would have happened in a solid front axle.

If you are going to be wheeling a rig(any rig) don't be suprised when you break stuff.

 

I have seen plenty of broncos with a 4' lift and 35's wheeled hard and jumped with no problems.

 

Spare me the physics lesson. I know how the TTB axle works and I still say its a ****-poor practice to deliberately twist an axle pivot bushing in a manner it was not designed to move. Come to think of it, the axle pivots are designed for the arc up and down... NOT forward and back! That's why the radius arm is there...to keep it from doing that! Yes, it CAN tweak that way but deliberately holding it that way in a state of misalignment is asking to prematurely ruin the bushing and potentially sheer the bolt within it. Sorry, no vehicle of mine would ever be so "Frankensteined". I mean for crying out loud, you people whine and moan about the TTB axle to begin with and then you pull that kind of stunt with it... well you get what you deserve if it deals you a fit after deliberately F-ing it up. Its deliberate mis-engineering. Better stronger parts are a given when upgrading the suspension but deliberate mis-alignement causing an increase of sheer pressure on ANY component is a recipe for disaster and potential catastrophic failure. No amount of tire diameter or "appearance" is worth endangering yourself and everyone on the road around you! Besides, stuffing tires that size under that dinky amount of lift won't let the suspension fully articulate without other issues anyway. And if you are gonna argue that point, I want the proof that with the steering hard over and the suspension at the TOP of its upward travel nothing rubs anything. Done.

 

The way you are thinking, any Ford with a TTB or TIB axle is unsafe to drive on anything but glass smooth roads.

Bushings are designed to provide movement simple as that. There is no way you are going to sheer a bolt off at the pivot point of the axle with any forces put on it running down the road. MAYBE in a accident, but the damage to the vehicle would have to ve extensive. If I can install the pivot bolt by hand, do you really think its at enough of a misalinment to damage anything?

I'm not going to go out and flex my pickup out, and take pictures for you to see that the tires clear everything. But do you really think I would spend over $220 a tire of there was a potential of damaging them, or the vehicle they are on?

A radius arms bushing gets put into missalinment with ANY up or down movement of the tire. And, by design, the radius arm does cause the pivot brushing to go into missalinment. Its impossible for it not to with a suspension of this design. I truly think you don't grasp the concept of how the axle really moves throughout its travel on a TTB.