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2wd 73 body to 4wd 75 frame (Crazy or not?)

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Old 06-14-2011, 12:32 AM
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2wd 73 body to 4wd 75 frame (Crazy or not?)

I have a 2wd 73 f250 that has an excellent body. Few wear and tears but hardly any rust (In Iowa that's amazing). I found an old 75 f250 highboy with a great frame, no engine (but same one as 73) and is a 4wd and includes the manual transmission and divorced transfer case. I want to put the 73 body on that frame. First will that work? Everything I found seems to say so but I figured I double check on the forums before I tear down the 73. Also opinions needed, is it worth it? I've helped do a project like this before with a friend but he went from 76 to 79 and I know Ford seem to change a few things. Your inputs would be greatly appreciated.

Here's a pic of the 73

 
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:59 AM
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I think the cab will fit without much trouble at all. As far as Australian trucks are concerned, the transmission hump in the floor unbolts, if its the same on yours then its just a case of swapping those hump covers to allow for the 4wd shifter
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 01:16 AM
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Can't speak for all but mine is just like yours. Think four bolts hold it in but cant remember of hand.
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:05 AM
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Thats all that should need changing then
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:58 AM
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I am in the middle of exactly the same thing. So far the biggest issues are these:

1) the cab / body mounts- radiator and front cab mounts are exactly the same, the rear cab mounts are on the outside of the frame, so you place the cab, bolt it down in front, and then drill up from the bottom through the 4wd's mounting holes with a long 1/4" drill bit, then double step the interior with hole saws get another couple of the rubber grommet seals and its all tidy.

2) The bed- the frame is narrower on the 4wd (Highboy)so, you can still mount it, but you will need to look at the options, *first one is to mount gussets on your frame (the outside) and bolt to those, there will be some shimming to get the body lines to match up ** Again place the bed, climb underneath and mark the hole locations, remove the bed, flip it over and drill from the bottom, then flip it right side up and use a hole saw to open up the hole so you can insert a sleeve (a piece of pipe). This step is important, because your bed would crush out and start sliding around without them. then use a washer on top of the pipe, set into the hole. there are 4 different lengths of the pipe, in pairs.
I didn't have to mess with either of these options because my bed was completely rotten. I cut out the decking, and replaced it with Diamond plate. all I had to do was mark it from underneath, drill the holes, move the spacers, drill the holes through the decking and then weld it down

3) The last bits are up to you.
* you'll have to use the center hump cover from the 4wd of course
* All the wiring and grounding work and frame clean-up should be done while you have the cab off
* look closely at all of your parts and switch around what is in the best shape or, what you want (my 2wd was an auto, so I kept the 4wd's steering column, and swapped it in)
*If you want the second tank you get to go find one. I used the rear poly tank out of an '85 IDI (diesel) F250. I used the brackets and straps from the 2wd's rear fuel tank, just cut 10" out of the two brackets, put in another cross member in front of the original rear cross member, and then used the straps to hold the tank up from the bottom.

Theres not a lot of this that I brainstormed on my own. I'm doing my truck by myself in the sticks with low budget tools and lots of manual labor (my own) but it isn't hard to do. The forum here has given me lots of idea's and tips. if you get stuck they guys all seem to come out of the woodwork with the coolest solutions.

Take your time, have fun!
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:08 AM
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As far as the rear bolts for cab...I just knocked off the outside mounts and using the existing holes in your cab as a guide, go right on through the transfer case CM.
I welded tabs to the frame to accomodate the bed. Just made them out of some square tubing.
Is your transfercase divorced?

Check out "1973 restoration" been there...done that"
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:48 AM
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And he gave me lots of great ideas!
 
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:43 AM
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@RunninD
Thanks for the tips! I know what you mean about low budget and heavy manual labor. I had to tear the bolts in the bed off by hand in the 75. Some un-biblical words were spoken that day.

@grinnergetter
thanks for the advice and yes the transfer case is divorced so I know that will make the project a little better.

I know I will have some work to do. I plan on new brake and fuel lines along with headers and exhaust pipes. Hopefully I can get it done before winter hits. I'll keep your guys advice in hand along with other stuff I have picked up from the forums.
 
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Old 06-15-2011, 09:47 AM
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You are going to have fuel tank issues as well. Bronco II or fuel cell is used here most often. Bronco tank will be less expensive but you might have to be creative when mounting it.

Fuel cell will set you back about $500 by the time it's done. Parts list is in my build thread.

Also you should mock up the fenders and get everything pretty close before you drill the holes for the rear of cab. Elongating holes is a PITA. Ask me how I know.
 
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