You were right on with the ECC relay wire.

After reading your post I went to the truck and tugged on the wires in that area. Tried to start it with no success. Call my wife to crank it over and while she was doing that I wiggled the wires and it fired once and stalled.

I tugged on the wires indivudually and the brown wire on the green socket came right off. It had corroded through at the connection to the female connector.

A quick fix was to find a female connector and solder a wire of the same gauge to it and then drill out that portion of the orginal plug to run the wire through the plug and make a new connection to the brown wire.

I would never have found that without your specific directions to look there and I am extremely grateful. Thanks for taking the time to hang with me long enough to find the solution.

Randy

 

Your welcome:

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You were absolutely correct on a wire possibly being corroded on the relay. The connector to one of the female connectors easily came loose with a little tugging.

To make a quick repair I drilled out that position on the connector and simply used a length of wire (same gauge) attached to a female connector of the right size. I plugged the connector onto the relay and ran the wire through the drilled out area and connected the two wires.

I am very grateful for you help. Thanks for answering my questions and posting the photos and pages from the the manuals.

There is nothing worse than a truck that lets you down and of course when you need a truck nothing can replace it.

Again, thank you!
Randy

 

My original thank you post wasn't showing until I made another.

 

I thought this problem was solved but haven't been driving the truck very much and now that I need it again I find that the ECC wire was not the only contributing factor.

I do have some additional information to share however.

The truck has an intermittent miss that has been getting progressively worse over time- it is almost always there but since the no start situation began it is getting worse and I think it is related to the problem.

I had to make a run down the interstate and the truck started missing badly after about 20 minutes. Several times it actually died but came back. When it died the tach went to zero. When it would briefly come back the tack would register only to drop to zero when it would die. Eventually it died and did not come back. After coasting to a stop it would not start. I tried it about every 10 minutes and after an hour and half it started and ran fine all the way home. So I see it as a hot start problem. Yesterday after a drive it failed to start. I used a test light on the pink and brown wire suggested in an earlier post. The pink/brown wire showed 12v with the key in the run position as well as in the start position. I thougt it was only supposed to show 12v in the start position? It did not show spark at the plugs. After it sat for a while it started. At that point the pink/brown wire still showed 12v at both the run and start position.

I have never done anything to the coil on this truck. What are the chances that it is the coil that is breaking down? Is there some test I can perform to isolate the coil as a possible cause to this miss and eventual stall and no start in hot conditions??

I can add that I have tried a different ECU and the behavior did not change. A local Ford person pointed the finger at the ECU as a probable suspect.

Thanks for any help in exploring the coil as the root cause.

Randy

 

i would get a repair connector and a new eec relay, the stator in the dizzy could be the culprit as well. did you pull the spout conenctor when timing it?

 

Most of the time when an engine quits after 20 minutes of driving it is either the PIP sensor that is mounted on the stator as jk89cat said above or the ICM (TFI type) that is mounted on the side of the distributor.

The Ignition coil can do it too but you do not hear of that much anymore.

 

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

Would the replacement connector and ECC relay be available somewhere other than Ford?

I don't know what the spout connector is?

If the problem is associated with the distributor I will just have to convince my counter man that the new replacement distributor is defective and have it replaced under warranty.

I did make it to the pick and pull yesterday and get a distributor off of an indentical truck but of course there is no reason to think that it is any better than my original. I will try to get it swapped in and see if it makes a differerence at all.

Again thanks for your replies.

 

Distributors from auto part stores are bad most of the time but they will have new bushings in them. So after you replace two or three from the auto parts store most just replace the stator in the last one they get.

The one from pick and pull stands a better chance of being good then the one from the parts store.

The SPOUT shorting bar is right below the distributor.


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most real parts stores should have it or be able to get it, ie napa carquest lee , not auto zone or the like . fyi dont ever buy electronic parts from autozone or advanced!

 

i forgot to add, when timing the truck that connector has to be removed for the computer to go to base timing.

 

To bring closure to this thread I wanted to report that swapping in a distributor from the Pick and Pull seems to have resolved this problem. I say that with fingers crossed as I have not put many miles on it since the change out.

Thanks for everyones help in this thread.

I am also starting another thread in reference to my current problem- the starter will not activate.

Randy