You need the MLE1 flash on the PCm for swapping to a stick. Screw Ford. They all forgot how to do it. Seriously!.

I would order a rebuilt zf47 from competition transmission if I was you. I just got done rebuilding my 42 and the t case and it cost me darn near as much as buying a transmission from them. They are in Ca and will ship anywhere. Do Not screw with junk yard stuff on this. You will need to get a new shifter boot kit. It has upper and lower and the screws with the bezel.
Lots of other stuff that won't be any good on a used trans. There is no cheap way to do it right. A donor truck will help with the under dash brackets and stuff but you will still need to replace a lot of stuff.

And someone asked if the stick will work with the cruise? Well, no, unless you add in the wires for the clutch safety switch. I wouldn't use the cruise without it. Try stopping a powerstroke with it in 5th gear, not pushing the clutch, and see what happens. It will work except for that one safety feature though.

 

FWIW The clutch saftey switch wiring is under the dash on all trucks.... all you have to do is plug it in.

 

RRanch, I've got the transmission and parts taken care of (thanks Ian!). I'll be using a S5-42 because the availability is much better than the S5-47.

I'll be taking a bunch of pictures and taking note of the procedure I use to get it all together, and I'll post it up in this thread as I progress. I may condense it all into a write-up when I'm done if everything works out really clean.

So my cruise will work as long as I get the PCM reflashed and utilize the clutch safety switch? It's that simple?

If anybody has any additional advice to give me, especially those that have done the swap, I'd appreciate hearing from you. Like I said, I've never really done anything like this before.

 

Yep, with an automatic there is just a plug with a jumper, you take that out. Get the switch from the donor truck and it will give you both clutch switches. There is a starter interlock for fully depressed clutch and cruise cancel as soon as you touch the clutch.

There is also a 4 pin connector under the truck that has the backup lights and the starter interlock. With an automatic all 4 are hooked up to the transmission. If you take the harness of the manual truck it will plug in the 4 pin connector; it jumpers the start wires and also connects up to the reverse switch. Without it you can't start the truck unless you splice wires.

 

Your welcome Joseph!

You will get all the wiring harness stuff that you need, everything will be a direct hook-up, no wire splicing needed

 

Good deal! I'm so excited. Sorry I forgot to call you about it tonight, I got caught up hanging out with my buddy and totally forgot.

 

Okay, I've got the transmission and all of the parts, so I'll be looking to get this thing going as soon as I can.

 

So three seconds after I get started on this thing by trying to remove the rear drive shaft, my brother's Harbor Freight torx bit broke on me. This is a bad omen, lol.

 

That's about the luck Joseph. Find yourself some NOT MIC bits and you'll be good. Look at it this way, you're getting the bad luck out of the way, somethings gotta give you a hard time.

 

Yeah. Hopefully so. It was a wild goose chase finding replacement bits, but I have'em now. I picked up some penetrating oil (liquid wrench brand... couldn't find PB Blaster), and it's soaking right now.

How heavy is an E4OD? Will an 800 lbs. transmission jack handle it? Also, how heavy is my transfer case? Is that something I'm going to need a jack to handle?

 

Joseph
pm sent

 

800lb jack should be fine if its physically big enough to safely set the trans on. I'd just use it for the transfer case too, never lifted one of these tcases, but if you don't have another set of hands, rig the jack up to work for you. I don't know the exact weight of the trans.

 

Anybody know what size torx bit those are supposed to take? I'm talking about the yoke on the rear end of the rear driveshaft. I thought it was T-40, but I guess I was wrong because I chewed up the inside of the head on two of them. I got two of them out, though.

Also, what's the best way to get on the inside bolt holding the carrier bearing assembly thing to the truck? It looks like there may not be enough room to get a wrench in between that and the fuel tank over there.

I'm good on the front of the rear driveshaft, because those are regular bolt heads, thank God. I freakin' hate torx heads.

 

T40 IIRC. If they stripped, they needed to be replaced
I had to use vice grips on two of mine and replaced all four of them.

That had me scratching my head for a bit. Then I figured out that the extended cabs must have the bearing mounted further back. On my it is 6" forward of the fuel tank. I seem to remember them using nylocks on that so it was a bear to take off.

You have bolts on the front of the rear drive shaft? Mine has press in bearings on the yoke, no bolts.

 

Yep. I removed four 12mm 12 pt. bolts from the flange on the front of the rear drive shaft earlier.