Porpising with 2011 F250 and trailer

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  #16  
Old 05-11-2011, 05:20 PM
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I understand how ball height and hitch angle can be off some like the TT level some like it down a little in the front. But when it gets down to it, it's how much your torque on the tension bars that affect ride conditions. By measuring you can get a accurate read on how the truck is responding to the WDH, and should be done when the TT is fully loaded. Trucks that have had their suspension changed can throw a whole new monkey wrench into the problem....
 
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:15 PM
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Well I went for a test ride today, about 15 miles, and seems to be better with some stuff loaded toward the front.
Now I notice it more when the truck shifts gears, mainly from 4th to 5th, just that little jerk but goes away pretty quick.
Going to finish loading it up with all the camping gear then going to the scale on Monday morning, found a cement place close, and going to get some real numbers.
Thanks for all the help.
 
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:02 AM
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I have the F250 with the anti sway and diesel. Same exact camper and had a SERIOUS issue with porpoising on Louisiana's I-10. The highway is "bumpy" and my truck porpoised HARD for quite a while.

On my first long trip with the TT, I towed on smooth interstate without a problem. After this trip, I installed Timbren SES to help with the load.

Don't know if (1) the Timbren kit contributed to this, (2) the anti sway is braking hard with the porpoising, or (3) there is a problem with my setup.

Any thoughts?
 
  #19  
Old 10-27-2011, 10:19 AM
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I found out that adding more tongue weight made it go away. I also have been hauling a 900 lbs golf cart in the bed with TT and it is super smooth and very little sway, even next to semi's. So now I put as much weight to the front of the trailer as possible and that has helped a lot.
 
  #20  
Old 10-27-2011, 03:46 PM
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The standard advice to reduce porpoising is to add weight on the front of the trailer, as several folks have suggested.

Steve
 
  #21  
Old 12-04-2013, 02:36 PM
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An update 2 years later....

I now fill my water tank (it's in the front of the trailer) prior to towing. This makes for a much smoother ride and reduces the porpoising on the bad roads. I've also learned to stay away from the bad roads.
 
  #22  
Old 12-04-2013, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BPF250LA
An update 2 years later....

I now fill my water tank (it's in the front of the trailer) prior to towing. This makes for a much smoother ride and reduces the porpoising on the bad roads. I've also learned to stay away from the bad roads.
Good to know. Glad things are working out for you.

Steve
 
  #23  
Old 12-04-2013, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BPF250LA
An update 2 years later....

I now fill my water tank (it's in the front of the trailer) prior to towing. This makes for a much smoother ride and reduces the porpoising on the bad roads. I've also learned to stay away from the bad roads.
A little confused? Did you change you "call letters" and move up north?
If you are the OP, good to hear all is well now.
 
  #24  
Old 12-05-2013, 07:40 AM
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Is the difference in the weight of the empty trailer vs loaded, require a different setting on the WDH?
 
  #25  
Old 12-05-2013, 08:00 AM
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Depends on the difference between empty and loaded.

Steve
 
  #26  
Old 12-05-2013, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by msgtord
Is the difference in the weight of the empty trailer vs loaded, require a different setting on the WDH?
When pulling my son's 10k gvwr toy trailer, I would tighten the wdh up four links regardless of load. Pretty tight.

However, getting up to the four links would mean that I'd have to use the trailer jack to raise the front up.

I never had a light tongue so the tighter the better to level the load.

I think you need to try it both ways and "feel" the difference, both tightening the chains up and down, as well as driving to determine the proper tension.

If your load is level with the tow vehicle and adjusted properly, you will know when it's right.
 
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