What he said^^^. Once IPR o-rings get bad enough, it will shut the truck down and it won't restart. Drove mine around for about 2 weeks on bad o-rings. When it wouldn't start I'd cycle the glowplugs and hit it with ether to get it going. Once they got bad enough it shut down and wouldn't restart, even with ether.

Also, when the HPOP on my dad's OBS went out, it drained the HPOP for some reason. Filled the rez, wouldn't start. Was only getting 100psi ICP. New pump and it started right up. So, I'd check the IPR o-rings, then check ICP with a mechanical guage.

 

So do you guys think I should check injector orings first or go for ipr orings?

 

IPR O rings are a cheap test . If they are OK , the injector O rings can be verified by pulling the covers if it is the uppers...

While you are in there , look at the oil spill spouts ( poppets) ....

 

I'd look at IPR o-rings first.. How old are your injector o-rings?

 

Ipr is cheaper but more difficult especially if its the front facing ipr. I guess I could check the rear ipr and if its ok then check injector orings then pull the hpops and check the forward ipr.

Injector orings have probably 100k on them but the truck gets used pretty hard. Ipr orings probably close to the same mileage

 

You can also test the injector O rings with a gauge ...

 

How do I do that? Guage in the icp port? So thats not something ill see on AE? Would a bad injector oring show up on a CCT?

 

After thinking about this only happening 2 times 2 months apart , I doubt it is a major leak any where . No start hot is usually an internal HP leak , but they are not intermittent ..

 

Yeah real intermittent until yesterday where I had it shut off twice on a 20 minute drive home. Went out today and fired right up. I was thinking it wouldn't be intermittent either but it seems to be getting worse. Maybe something electrical instead?

 

Did some ae testing today. Cold icp and duty cycle are perfect. Warmed up with my AIC took a short drive after eot hit 165 was getting 3200 psi at 31% dc pulled back in the garage to do some KOER tests and the truck shut off. Wouldn't restart. Getting 180 psi at 71% dc so no start. Im going to take off the rear ipr and put in a plug so im only running one ipr. It could be ipr orings or maybe even just a sticking ipr but would an ipr stick only when warm? On my short drive everything ran great and eot was over 165 what's weird is it held 3200 psi while driving. I would think of it was orings it wouldn't hold that much pressure at 31% dc cold or warm

 

The pumps are designed for 3400, so 3200 PSI is good.
with the cold oil like that, its easy to make.

And yes, the IPR valves can stick while warm.

 

IPR orings FTW! ordered orings from riffraff and in 2 days flat, ordered them at night mind you, came faster than i was ready for them!

 

Pulled the rear ipr out and put the plug in now just waiting for my riffraff ic boots. Mine were seeping oil so I know there were letting boost through them. Unfortunately ipr orings looked fine. Maybe I can get lucky and it was just sticking but I doubt it. It sucks I have to put everything back together just to find out. I hate wrestling with that intake spyder. Im guessing ill have to tear it apart again and pull the pumps. Man with both pumps and an adapter plate and all the hoses there isn't a whole lot of room in the valley!

 

Had to pull the pumps out and apart but the front ipr looked good too so just to get it running I put only one pump back in. Now in wont start. I get 0 icp while cranking. Yes zero. Filled res and lines and oil rails in the heads. One thing I did notice is when I pulled the back ipr out of the dual pump setup alot of oil came out probably a quart but when I pulled it out of the single stock pump I put in only a little oil trickled out. Res is full after draining the batteries twice so I know the lpop is working. Its almost like the pump isn't filling up. What did I screw up? Im at a loss here...