"Check Coolant Additive"
#76
Lots of good info in this thread. I have an issue with the Acustrip test kit ACU-ELE4048. For $35 it comes with 2 strips of each to test the Nitrites, Contamination, and Alkalinity. For Step 2 ELC test part b 3 it states:
If RA level is LOW (orange-red or brownish-orange), use the orange capped vial in step 3 below. If the RA is HIGH (greenish to green) use the clear-capped vial in step 3 below.
Step 3:
Fill syringe EXACTLY to the 5mL line with coolant and transfer the sample to the appropriate vial determined in Step 2.
• Recap the vial and shake for a FULL 15 seconds
• Uncap the vial and dip contamination strip for 2 seconds. Remove and shake once briskly to remove excess coolant sample. After 60 seconds, match the color on the test strip to he contamination color spot closest to the strip pad color.
Here is my Question:
Anyone know what is in the vials and how much is supposed to be in there? The contents seemed to have leaked out of the clear capped vials because there is just barely anything in them and just one drop in the orange cap vials.
If RA level is LOW (orange-red or brownish-orange), use the orange capped vial in step 3 below. If the RA is HIGH (greenish to green) use the clear-capped vial in step 3 below.
Step 3:
Fill syringe EXACTLY to the 5mL line with coolant and transfer the sample to the appropriate vial determined in Step 2.
• Recap the vial and shake for a FULL 15 seconds
• Uncap the vial and dip contamination strip for 2 seconds. Remove and shake once briskly to remove excess coolant sample. After 60 seconds, match the color on the test strip to he contamination color spot closest to the strip pad color.
Here is my Question:
Anyone know what is in the vials and how much is supposed to be in there? The contents seemed to have leaked out of the clear capped vials because there is just barely anything in them and just one drop in the orange cap vials.
#77
#79
#80
My second coolant check light came on at 26K. I had to go to the dealership anyway for another warranty issue and asked them to test it while in. The service rep told me it was just a dip of a test strip into the radiator and she wouldn't even charge me for it. She also said that those messages are really just for people driving in really cold places. Down here in Texas it doesn't matter.
I suspect they simply reset the indicator and didn't even do any part of the test. Another dealer that has no idea how to maintain their own production engines. Guess I'll bite the bullet and buy the kits myself.
I'm not too impressed with this dealership service department. Is it bad form to name names on the forums?
I suspect they simply reset the indicator and didn't even do any part of the test. Another dealer that has no idea how to maintain their own production engines. Guess I'll bite the bullet and buy the kits myself.
I'm not too impressed with this dealership service department. Is it bad form to name names on the forums?
#81
It still amazes me what I hear people say their dealers are telling them.
Remember that you have two cooling systems and need to test both. If you need to add VC-12, You probably need to add it to both systems and that will take more than 1 quart. Buy two bottles.
One of the main villains in our cooling system is air. Part of the check your coolant is to make sure it is full of coolant and that you are not getting air in and around the various metal parts that the coolant is protecting.
The guidelines I read said to check your coolant at ambient temps. So I've never understood how you can pull into the dealer shop and have your coolant tested while the coolant is hot and leave in a few minutes.
If you are positive that nobody has put any other fluids into your coolant system. The test are kinda over kill. The only way you get nitrites in you coolant is by adding the wrong coolant.If you are positive that nothing has ever been added to your coolant. then the only thing you are ever concerned about is the Corrosion Inhibitor. Ford says you can add the VC-12 to revitilze the corrosion inhibitor twice during the coolants 105,000 mile life. It's almost easier to skip the test and just add the VC-12 every 35,000 miles
Remember that you have two cooling systems and need to test both. If you need to add VC-12, You probably need to add it to both systems and that will take more than 1 quart. Buy two bottles.
One of the main villains in our cooling system is air. Part of the check your coolant is to make sure it is full of coolant and that you are not getting air in and around the various metal parts that the coolant is protecting.
The guidelines I read said to check your coolant at ambient temps. So I've never understood how you can pull into the dealer shop and have your coolant tested while the coolant is hot and leave in a few minutes.
If you are positive that nobody has put any other fluids into your coolant system. The test are kinda over kill. The only way you get nitrites in you coolant is by adding the wrong coolant.If you are positive that nothing has ever been added to your coolant. then the only thing you are ever concerned about is the Corrosion Inhibitor. Ford says you can add the VC-12 to revitilze the corrosion inhibitor twice during the coolants 105,000 mile life. It's almost easier to skip the test and just add the VC-12 every 35,000 miles
#82
Alternate to Rotunda
The test strips for orange ELC coolant are Acustrip R071-ELC also available from deiselfiltersonline for $64 plus $9 shipping.
Search Results
Motorcraft VC-12 additive is $15 / qt
Diesel Engine Coolants - [VC-8]-Motorcraft Diesel Cooling System Additive
The refractometer is available from Amazon for $45.
Rotunda seems to take products on the market, assign a rotunda part number and mark up the price about 20%.
Search Results
Motorcraft VC-12 additive is $15 / qt
Diesel Engine Coolants - [VC-8]-Motorcraft Diesel Cooling System Additive
The refractometer is available from Amazon for $45.
Rotunda seems to take products on the market, assign a rotunda part number and mark up the price about 20%.
#83
Maybe we should explain what is happening with the Check Coolant and Fords Specialty Orange coolant. This is the first engine that Ford has used this coolant in. It is NOT backward compatible with Fords other engines. Apparently it can eat seals. So don't take any of your left over coolant and put it in your wife's Taurus.
The coolant should be close to room or ambient temp. You can't check it while its hot. So plan on leaving it at the dealer long enough to cool off.
There are two test strips that you use. The first test strip checks for:
1st. Nitrite Contamination. Previous versions of Ford Coolant all were Nitrite Based. So the test strips were looking to make sure you had enough Nitrite in your coolant. The Specialty Orange coolant in the 6.7L is one of the First Ford Coolants that has NO NITRITES. So we are looking for just opposite of what we looked for in previous coolant test. Same test strip, just different results. We want to make sure that no nitrites were added. This typically happens when somebody adds the WRONG coolant to your system. If nothing has been added to your coolant systems, the chances of testing positive for Nitrites is almost non-existant.
2nd. Check for percent Glycol for Freeze point protection. The coolant when new will protect down to -50°C. Unless the coolant is old or has been diluted, This should not be a problem
3rd. Check for Coolant Reserve Alkalinity
The second test strip is used for the 4th test. This is a new test strip not used on previous coolants.
4th Check the Corrosion Inhibitor ( Contamination ) Level.
The Specialty Orange coolant uses Carboxylates as the main corrosion inhibitor. The carboxylates slowly coat the metal of the engine block and provide a protective coating that inhibits corrosion of the block. Some of the information I've read indicates this takes 3-5 weeks to happen. Dumping in a bottle of Coolant Revitalizer does not immediately fix this. It's takes the 3-5 weeks for the revitalizer to circulate enough to provide the added coating. The revitalizer (Motorcraft VC-12) can be added twice during the coolants life.
For those of you worried about getting in the day the message appears and having the test done. Think about whether there is ANY possibility that somebody added the wrong fluid to your cooling system. If you are confident that nobody has added the wrong coolant to your cooling system. Then it's not going to make a big difference if you wait until the next oil change to have the test done.
If you fail the Nitrite test. You need to flush and refill.
The freeze point isn't a pass or fail test. But rather gives you confidence that you operate your truck in cold weather. If it doesn't protect to temp colder than the avg cold temps in your area, you need to flush and replace.
The Corrosion Inhibitor wears off slowly and takes time to recoat the metal parts inside the engine block. Chances are it will not cause a failure over night, but is part of the coolant to provide long term protection.
Remember that you have TWO separate cooling systems. So you need to perform each of the test twice. If you need to add the revitalizer, It needs to be added to which ever system that failed the Corrosion Inhibitor test. The Primary cooling systems needs 48oz of VC-12. The product is sold in quart bottles, ( 32 oz) So you will need to buy at least two bottles if you are adding it. I don't remember how much you need to add to the secondary cooling system. I think 22oz. So if you need to add to both systems, You are buying three bottles.
I frequently see post that the coolant failed the test and they added one bottle of VC-12. So the question becomes, Did they add it to one or both coolant systems? How much did they add to each? Why didn't they add the recommended dose? Since you can only add it twice, Which system did get it and which system did not get it? So that I can track which system can not get additional doses in the future.
So if you go in for a test, ask
Did you wait for the coolant to cool to room temp.
Which coolant system failed, Primary, secondary or both?
How much VC-12 was added and to which system?
Make sure they do not use VC-8 which was the coolant additive for the older Specialty GOLD coolant used in the 6.0L and 6.4L it adds Nitrites which are bad for the 6.7L engine. Or FW-16 which was the additive to prevent cavitation in the 7.3L engines.
The coolant should be close to room or ambient temp. You can't check it while its hot. So plan on leaving it at the dealer long enough to cool off.
There are two test strips that you use. The first test strip checks for:
1st. Nitrite Contamination. Previous versions of Ford Coolant all were Nitrite Based. So the test strips were looking to make sure you had enough Nitrite in your coolant. The Specialty Orange coolant in the 6.7L is one of the First Ford Coolants that has NO NITRITES. So we are looking for just opposite of what we looked for in previous coolant test. Same test strip, just different results. We want to make sure that no nitrites were added. This typically happens when somebody adds the WRONG coolant to your system. If nothing has been added to your coolant systems, the chances of testing positive for Nitrites is almost non-existant.
2nd. Check for percent Glycol for Freeze point protection. The coolant when new will protect down to -50°C. Unless the coolant is old or has been diluted, This should not be a problem
3rd. Check for Coolant Reserve Alkalinity
The second test strip is used for the 4th test. This is a new test strip not used on previous coolants.
4th Check the Corrosion Inhibitor ( Contamination ) Level.
The Specialty Orange coolant uses Carboxylates as the main corrosion inhibitor. The carboxylates slowly coat the metal of the engine block and provide a protective coating that inhibits corrosion of the block. Some of the information I've read indicates this takes 3-5 weeks to happen. Dumping in a bottle of Coolant Revitalizer does not immediately fix this. It's takes the 3-5 weeks for the revitalizer to circulate enough to provide the added coating. The revitalizer (Motorcraft VC-12) can be added twice during the coolants life.
For those of you worried about getting in the day the message appears and having the test done. Think about whether there is ANY possibility that somebody added the wrong fluid to your cooling system. If you are confident that nobody has added the wrong coolant to your cooling system. Then it's not going to make a big difference if you wait until the next oil change to have the test done.
If you fail the Nitrite test. You need to flush and refill.
The freeze point isn't a pass or fail test. But rather gives you confidence that you operate your truck in cold weather. If it doesn't protect to temp colder than the avg cold temps in your area, you need to flush and replace.
The Corrosion Inhibitor wears off slowly and takes time to recoat the metal parts inside the engine block. Chances are it will not cause a failure over night, but is part of the coolant to provide long term protection.
Remember that you have TWO separate cooling systems. So you need to perform each of the test twice. If you need to add the revitalizer, It needs to be added to which ever system that failed the Corrosion Inhibitor test. The Primary cooling systems needs 48oz of VC-12. The product is sold in quart bottles, ( 32 oz) So you will need to buy at least two bottles if you are adding it. I don't remember how much you need to add to the secondary cooling system. I think 22oz. So if you need to add to both systems, You are buying three bottles.
I frequently see post that the coolant failed the test and they added one bottle of VC-12. So the question becomes, Did they add it to one or both coolant systems? How much did they add to each? Why didn't they add the recommended dose? Since you can only add it twice, Which system did get it and which system did not get it? So that I can track which system can not get additional doses in the future.
So if you go in for a test, ask
Did you wait for the coolant to cool to room temp.
Which coolant system failed, Primary, secondary or both?
How much VC-12 was added and to which system?
Make sure they do not use VC-8 which was the coolant additive for the older Specialty GOLD coolant used in the 6.0L and 6.4L it adds Nitrites which are bad for the 6.7L engine. Or FW-16 which was the additive to prevent cavitation in the 7.3L engines.
Question, some of the links to these tests on the first page no longer work... and i see that the part# for the them have been superseded. Has the price on these tests gone up? The cheapest I've found them is one for $65 and the other for $35... and i saw on the first couple of pages of this thread people say that it is $70 for BOTH test kits?
Also, i am positive that no other coolant has ever been added to my coolant system, should i bother with the nitrite test then ? I find this testing coolant a pretty annoying chore... i do not trust nor want the dealership to do this given that they're pretty incompetent at least around here... so i'm gonna do it myself. I just wish the coolant was worry free until 100k miles...
I have also a 2014 mustang GT and a 2014 Ford Taurus SHO and both of them use an orange coolant as well... is it all the same coolant as my 2013 F350?
#85
This sounds like the best way to go. That way, the dealer doesn't mess anything up!
#86
#87
Just FYI, new part numbers when I looked them up today 12/12/16.
The 328-2050-RK Kit is complete with vial and syringe.
(This product is also sold as the ACU2050-3 CTS-3 series. It was formerly designated as part number 328-00001.)
The 328-071ELC series is suitable for testing all OAT-based (NOAT and HOAT) coolants.
This product is also sold as the ACU R071 Series. It was formerly designated as part number 328-00008.
The 328-2050-RK Kit is complete with vial and syringe.
(This product is also sold as the ACU2050-3 CTS-3 series. It was formerly designated as part number 328-00001.)
The 328-071ELC series is suitable for testing all OAT-based (NOAT and HOAT) coolants.
This product is also sold as the ACU R071 Series. It was formerly designated as part number 328-00008.
#89