1995 F350 Front Brakes Dragging?
#61
06-23-2011, 11:35 AM
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My master cylinder only has 1 reservoir and single lid that feeds both front and rear. Though it does look like it splits into the front and rear further down into the reservoir so each side (front/back) does have its own volume of fluid to use.
#62
06-23-2011, 11:37 AM
I've seen the dual resevoir setup that shared a common lid....Same deal....Front/Rear both have their own "Mini" system as part of the complete system if you know what I mean....
Think about it...Would YOU design a vehicle with only one system for brakes, and if it is compromised, there goes your credibility as manufacturer...and a crapload of lawsuits....
Think about it...Would YOU design a vehicle with only one system for brakes, and if it is compromised, there goes your credibility as manufacturer...and a crapload of lawsuits....
#63
06-23-2011, 04:56 PM
Elder User
#64
06-28-2013, 11:07 PM
Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
Did you ever figure out what the problem with the front brakes was?
Hi,
I've been reading a lot of threads about front brakes dragging, but I have not found one small piece of information I have been looking for.
I am pretty sure I have a problem, but want to double check with others. I purchased the truck about 2 weeks ago.
When I jack up the front of my truck and press the brake pedal a few times with the engine off, I attempt to rotate the front tire. Grabbing the tire with both of my hands and spinning it as hard as a can with on good motion, I get about 1 full turn before the tire stops. They are 33" x 11.5" tires on 16" aluminum rims. So does this sound about right? If not, how many turns should you expect to get from the tire making sure the brakes pads are fully seated (but no pressure on the pedal).
Did you ever figure out what was going on with your brakes because I am having the same trouble with mine
When I remove the tire, I can grab the rotor by the studs and it takes quite a bit of effort to move the rotor. I can only move it about 1/8 of a turn before I have to re-grip the stud.
Now if I start the engine, and press the brake pedal once or twice, it becomes even harder to rotate. If I grab the rotor studs with one hand, no chance on spinning it. I have to use both hands on the studs to get it to move.
This is the same on both front sides, almost identical results.
When I do spin the tires, they are very smooth all the way around, and the rotors feel great when breaking, so I know I don't have warped rotors.
The rotors and calipers have about 14K miles on them. I just replaced the front brake pads. The old pads only had 14K on them as well and were toast. I found the receipt for the new parts and installation which showed the date and mileage of when it was done.
I pulled all the pins and they move very nicely and are lubed well. I also just replaced the power booster because it was leaking. I thought this might cause the brakes to stick, but it made no difference. Though the pedal feels much better now with the new booster. I also bleed the brakes and replaced most of the fluid with new stuff. Went through 3 bottles of fluid doing this.
And another thing, when I removed the calipers, the rotors spin very easily. I can rotate the rotor with just one finger pressing on the stud.
I feel it is something in the system in front of the calipers since they both are reacting exactly the same.
Anyway, back to my original question, how many turns would one expect the front tire to rotate with a good hard spin.
Oh yes, and the reason I dug into this was because I just ran through my first tank of gas with the 460 motor, and I was average about 5 MPG. All in town driving, but very very light on the throttle. I know these trucks are not that great on mileage, but I was at least expecting around 8 or 9mpg.
I also just replaced the airfilter and installed new motor craft spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Timing is also right on. Truck runs real smooth.
Sorry for jumping around, just trying to throw as much info in as possible. This thing really has me stumped and I don't want to start randomly replacing parts trying to find it. Hopefully I can get a few ideas of where to look next.
I was thinking the master cylinder and actually purchased a new one, but haven't installed it yet.
Just wanted to make sure I really had a brake dragging problem before I dug into it.
Thanks,
Terry
I've been reading a lot of threads about front brakes dragging, but I have not found one small piece of information I have been looking for.
I am pretty sure I have a problem, but want to double check with others. I purchased the truck about 2 weeks ago.
When I jack up the front of my truck and press the brake pedal a few times with the engine off, I attempt to rotate the front tire. Grabbing the tire with both of my hands and spinning it as hard as a can with on good motion, I get about 1 full turn before the tire stops. They are 33" x 11.5" tires on 16" aluminum rims. So does this sound about right? If not, how many turns should you expect to get from the tire making sure the brakes pads are fully seated (but no pressure on the pedal).
Did you ever figure out what was going on with your brakes because I am having the same trouble with mine
When I remove the tire, I can grab the rotor by the studs and it takes quite a bit of effort to move the rotor. I can only move it about 1/8 of a turn before I have to re-grip the stud.
Now if I start the engine, and press the brake pedal once or twice, it becomes even harder to rotate. If I grab the rotor studs with one hand, no chance on spinning it. I have to use both hands on the studs to get it to move.
This is the same on both front sides, almost identical results.
When I do spin the tires, they are very smooth all the way around, and the rotors feel great when breaking, so I know I don't have warped rotors.
The rotors and calipers have about 14K miles on them. I just replaced the front brake pads. The old pads only had 14K on them as well and were toast. I found the receipt for the new parts and installation which showed the date and mileage of when it was done.
I pulled all the pins and they move very nicely and are lubed well. I also just replaced the power booster because it was leaking. I thought this might cause the brakes to stick, but it made no difference. Though the pedal feels much better now with the new booster. I also bleed the brakes and replaced most of the fluid with new stuff. Went through 3 bottles of fluid doing this.
And another thing, when I removed the calipers, the rotors spin very easily. I can rotate the rotor with just one finger pressing on the stud.
I feel it is something in the system in front of the calipers since they both are reacting exactly the same.
Anyway, back to my original question, how many turns would one expect the front tire to rotate with a good hard spin.
Oh yes, and the reason I dug into this was because I just ran through my first tank of gas with the 460 motor, and I was average about 5 MPG. All in town driving, but very very light on the throttle. I know these trucks are not that great on mileage, but I was at least expecting around 8 or 9mpg.
I also just replaced the airfilter and installed new motor craft spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Timing is also right on. Truck runs real smooth.
Sorry for jumping around, just trying to throw as much info in as possible. This thing really has me stumped and I don't want to start randomly replacing parts trying to find it. Hopefully I can get a few ideas of where to look next.
I was thinking the master cylinder and actually purchased a new one, but haven't installed it yet.
Just wanted to make sure I really had a brake dragging problem before I dug into it.
Thanks,
Terry
#65
06-28-2013, 11:10 PM
#66
06-28-2013, 11:29 PM
Join Date: May 2011
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No I haven't. Kind of gave up on it.
Though after only about 6000mi, I am already in need of front pads. They started squeaking about a month ago.
I only put about 3000mi per year on the truck, so I am not too worried about it.
I did go through and rebuild all the rear brakes and turn the drums. I also replaced the Rear ABS valve. This was a bit expensive, but it made all the difference in the world as far as stopping power. Truck stops on a dime now.
But honestly, since last year, I haven't even looked at the front brakes. Figured they were worn in enough to not rub. I think a lot of the fading problem was not so much the brakes getting hot, but the RABS valve was leaking within itself loosing pressure to the pedal.
When I get around to doing the front brakes again, I'll probably go through the same thing I went through before and try and figure it out this time.
Good luck, and if you come up with anything, please let me know.
Terry
Though after only about 6000mi, I am already in need of front pads. They started squeaking about a month ago.
I only put about 3000mi per year on the truck, so I am not too worried about it.
I did go through and rebuild all the rear brakes and turn the drums. I also replaced the Rear ABS valve. This was a bit expensive, but it made all the difference in the world as far as stopping power. Truck stops on a dime now.
But honestly, since last year, I haven't even looked at the front brakes. Figured they were worn in enough to not rub. I think a lot of the fading problem was not so much the brakes getting hot, but the RABS valve was leaking within itself loosing pressure to the pedal.
When I get around to doing the front brakes again, I'll probably go through the same thing I went through before and try and figure it out this time.
Good luck, and if you come up with anything, please let me know.
Terry
#67
07-02-2013, 04:02 AM
Well I also have the same problem on my 2004 E350 super duty based motorhome here in the UK
All vehicles over 3 years old have to have a test each year which includes a brake test on rolling drums. The test centre I like to use as they are familiar with US RVs is about 15miles away and I noticed that the front right hand brake was binding (you could smell it and it was in fact pulling to the left as the braking had faded on the right brake. The brakes were very very hot but I let them cool and decided to do the test. To my amazement she sailed through without any problems at all.
So armed with my new certificate I drove home and could tell at once that the brakes were as normal. Just warm not hot. The wheels spun freely when jacked up.
I decided to change the pads as they had got so hot and had a set of genuine Motorcraft ones . Brakes bound on when applying the brakes but after they had got hot (not so hot as the first time) they released and seemed ok.
Not wanting to risk them binding on while on vacation in the motorhome I ordered a caliper repair kit which arrived in a week. Took the pistons out of the caliper and cleaned up the very slight corrosion. The pistons seem to be coated with a brown coating and there was a very very small ridge about 1/4inch from the front end where the seals rubs.
Gave the rubbers some red brake seal lube, greased the sliders etc and put back.
Took for a run and the side I rebuilt got hot but not so hot as to ruin the pads. After cooling works fine.
I'm now waiting for new brake hoses and calipers to arrive as don't want any problems stuck in the middle of France or somewhere!
Luckily Ebay now has their Global Shipping system and suppliers who normally won't ship internationally can now do so using the Ebay service. The sytem includes prepaying the customs charge as well which speeds things up.
Some time Amazon will also ship parts. They often quote delivery in 2 to 3 weeks but my last order arrived in 5 days.
All vehicles over 3 years old have to have a test each year which includes a brake test on rolling drums. The test centre I like to use as they are familiar with US RVs is about 15miles away and I noticed that the front right hand brake was binding (you could smell it and it was in fact pulling to the left as the braking had faded on the right brake. The brakes were very very hot but I let them cool and decided to do the test. To my amazement she sailed through without any problems at all.
So armed with my new certificate I drove home and could tell at once that the brakes were as normal. Just warm not hot. The wheels spun freely when jacked up.
I decided to change the pads as they had got so hot and had a set of genuine Motorcraft ones . Brakes bound on when applying the brakes but after they had got hot (not so hot as the first time) they released and seemed ok.
Not wanting to risk them binding on while on vacation in the motorhome I ordered a caliper repair kit which arrived in a week. Took the pistons out of the caliper and cleaned up the very slight corrosion. The pistons seem to be coated with a brown coating and there was a very very small ridge about 1/4inch from the front end where the seals rubs.
Gave the rubbers some red brake seal lube, greased the sliders etc and put back.
Took for a run and the side I rebuilt got hot but not so hot as to ruin the pads. After cooling works fine.
I'm now waiting for new brake hoses and calipers to arrive as don't want any problems stuck in the middle of France or somewhere!
Luckily Ebay now has their Global Shipping system and suppliers who normally won't ship internationally can now do so using the Ebay service. The sytem includes prepaying the customs charge as well which speeds things up.
Some time Amazon will also ship parts. They often quote delivery in 2 to 3 weeks but my last order arrived in 5 days.
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#68
02-15-2015, 10:41 AM
Dang, I was hoping terryf350 solved this mystery.
My driver's side brake is dragging. Remove the caliper and the hub spins nicely.
New stainless braided hoses were installed when the truck still had the TTB. Didn't notice a drag then, but wasn't looking for it either.
I am chasing a suspension shimmy (feels sorta like a tire balance) and at one point had all 4 corners on jack stands to watch the wheels spinning. The front driver side wheel would slow to a stop and the passenger side would spin faster, the front axle is an open diff. I could slow the passenger wheel to a stop, spinning the driver side up, but it would eventually stop when I removed the friction I was applying on the passenger side.
A few weeks later I replaced both front calipers. No difference.
Yesterday thinking the problem may be mechanical, I pulled the caliper mounting bracket off the removed TTB and installed it in place of the one on the D60. No change.
Is there some sort of proportioning valve between the two front brakes?
My driver's side brake is dragging. Remove the caliper and the hub spins nicely.
New stainless braided hoses were installed when the truck still had the TTB. Didn't notice a drag then, but wasn't looking for it either.
I am chasing a suspension shimmy (feels sorta like a tire balance) and at one point had all 4 corners on jack stands to watch the wheels spinning. The front driver side wheel would slow to a stop and the passenger side would spin faster, the front axle is an open diff. I could slow the passenger wheel to a stop, spinning the driver side up, but it would eventually stop when I removed the friction I was applying on the passenger side.
A few weeks later I replaced both front calipers. No difference.
Yesterday thinking the problem may be mechanical, I pulled the caliper mounting bracket off the removed TTB and installed it in place of the one on the D60. No change.
Is there some sort of proportioning valve between the two front brakes?
#69
02-15-2015, 06:15 PM
#70
03-20-2015, 08:25 AM
I think terry350 was questioning the centering of the the rotor? I've noticed that everything is slide to the center of the truck, towards the inside, way off center. So far to the inside that the stainless spacer/shim/squeaker thingies rub the rotor.
I changed the caliper mounting bracket with the one from the removed TTB with no change.
In a discussion about a very similar issue, but on a newer truck, someone posted a link to guzzle's writeup about the caliper pins.
Linked Here My take away from this was that the calper and the caliper mounting bracket are to be removed, cleaned, then reinstalled, torquing the caliper first, then the bracket. Interesting....
I still think this is a mechanical issue, not hydraulic.
This is sort of a quick history:
A year or two before I swapped in the D60 I replaced the stock hoses with the Crown, bleed a bunch of clean fluid through the lines, and added new pads.
Part of my D60 refurb effort (before it was installed) was adding new rotors.
About 6 months after pairing the D60 with its new rotors with the D50 calipers I observed the dragging brake issue. And have since replaced the calipers.
My next step will be to follow guzzle' reassembly steps. Also, I still have the D50 rotors and the original D60 rotors...I'll measure how tall the 'hat' is on all three.
#71
03-22-2015, 10:58 AM
I measured the donor's original D60 and the original D50 rotor "hats", both are less that 2". I'll have to remove a wheel to get an accurate measurement, but my 'approximating with a finger' method says the new rotors I installed as part of the D60 refurb prior to its swap measure about 2-1/2".
#72
07-16-2015, 09:19 PM
I have a 96 f250 diesel and just the front driver side is dragging and pulling to the left while driving, all other tires spin free. It's so dam frustrating, makes me wanna buy a dodge. I've replaced the line, replaced every drop of brake fluid in the truck, put decent brake pads on, new caliper and still the same thing........... some one figure this out before I buy a dam prius lol
#73
07-17-2015, 03:10 PM
I measured the donor's original D60 and the original D50 rotor "hats", both are less that 2". I'll have to remove a wheel to get an accurate measurement, but my 'approximating with a finger' method says the new rotors I installed as part of the D60 refurb prior to its swap measure about 2-1/2".
I have a 96 f250 diesel and just the front driver side is dragging and pulling to the left while driving, all other tires spin free. It's so dam frustrating, makes me wanna buy a dodge. I've replaced the line, replaced every drop of brake fluid in the truck, put decent brake pads on, new caliper and still the same thing........... some one figure this out before I buy a dam prius lol
#74
07-17-2015, 03:22 PM
I got an idea…back in my 5.0 days, with mustang lowered for handling (we thought we were Mika Hakkinen) the master cylinder would be close the same level as the font brake calipers.
This is exaggerated on hot rods with floor mounted master cylinders.
The brake fluid would drain back into the master, pulling the fluid out of the slave. So the first pump of the brake pedal was to get the pads back in contact with the rotors.
To reduce this, a brake fluid residual pressure valve was installed, maintains a few (2?) psi of line pressure.
What the master cylinder sitting almost on top of the driver's side caliper, is causing the brake fluid to stack the pads against the rotors?
Wonder if they make the opposite of a residual pressure valve? Or maybe one installed backwards?
This is exaggerated on hot rods with floor mounted master cylinders.
The brake fluid would drain back into the master, pulling the fluid out of the slave. So the first pump of the brake pedal was to get the pads back in contact with the rotors.
To reduce this, a brake fluid residual pressure valve was installed, maintains a few (2?) psi of line pressure.
What the master cylinder sitting almost on top of the driver's side caliper, is causing the brake fluid to stack the pads against the rotors?
Wonder if they make the opposite of a residual pressure valve? Or maybe one installed backwards?
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