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Would My F1 Front Axle and Leaf Springs Make a Good Trailer?

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Old 04-29-2011, 08:35 PM
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Question Would My F1 Front Axle and Leaf Springs Make a Good Trailer?

I've got my ifs crossmember installed in my F1, so was prepared to scrap the front axle and attached leaf springs. Then i wondered; can this heap of metal be turned into the bottom of a small flatbed trailer? I haul truck parts, firewood, etc. occasionally. And had to borrow a buddy's trailer today. I'd sure like to have one of my own. I was wondering if anyone here has recycled their front ibeam, springs, and spindles to make a trailer?
 
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:39 PM
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We have a big truck beam axle for a trailer at work. The spindles are intact and welded in place.... not roadworthy!!! but around the yard, it works fine. Anyone (like me) that is building a gasser, might be interested in your axle and springs, though.
 
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:08 PM
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Building trailers using front straight axles is a time-honored tradition from farmers and your better back yard mechanics for nearly 100 years. It's probably good for 1000-1500 pounds gross weight (including the weight of the trailer). It really depends on what you want to do with your trailer. We've come a long way since the 40's-50's with trailer axle technology. If you want a trailer that's bigger than a 4x6 pickup box and to be able to actually haul a decent sized load, you're probably better off with a commercial trailer axle and springs. If you just want to look cool with a little matching trailer behind your truck, it'll be perfect for that.
 
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:14 PM
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Your front end is probably worth more to a ol' skool hotrodder than it would be on a utility trailer. These F1 hubs/brakes/spindles are a perfect setup for upgrading old Ford mechanical brakes to hydraulics.
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:17 AM
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someone gave me a 1935 ford puck up bed that was made into a trailer using the stock front suspension it wasnt very pretty,I knocked the welds with a hammer...
I made a new frame and used an old axle similar to it and it does fine on the highway.gotta weld the steering components in place tho.
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:18 AM
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I thought about this too... and I am planning on using helm joints so I can tweak the alignment for limit tire wear and adjust the way it trails behind my tow vehicle... Nothing worse than a trailer that doesn't pull well... My current pickup bed trailer is a 8' Chevy bed with a 12 bolt rear end that has the brakes have been stripped off... And wanting to build a 48-49 PU bed trailer to match my 49.
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:32 AM
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I've seen dozens of trailers built from straight axles. Sell what you have and buy a trailer. You would have more in the build you mention than what a decent and more capable used trailer can be had for. OTOH, if you have lots of scrap iron and lots of time on your hands, build away
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 10:27 AM
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I think it's a great idea, if you do it right. Like Moe says, being able to set toe-in is a big plus, helps with stability. You'd be able to use 15 or 16" wheels, not those puke 12" you find on the typical Harbor Freight setup. You could also have shocks which you never see on cheapo's. Best of all you can make it exactly the way you want!

PS - if your brake drums are still good, they are worth big money too, new ones are $100+ each
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 10:58 AM
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I don't believe you would want to set toe-in on a trailer, but would want it strait. but would be adjustable as when welding you would be locked into whatever you welded it at... The one part I haven't work out if I should use the axle as my fixed point for the axle or if I should make a mount that goes across the spring mounts to mount and use that as my mounting plate.
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:41 AM
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I tried to sell it a few years back but no one wanted it. I just dont see any want adds for used F1 front axles in my area. I'm really leaning towards making this a nice little utility trailer for hauling of occasional loads of wood, sand, and maybe a 2007 Suzuki Boulevard C50? I wonder if that would be too much weight?
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:19 PM
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Go onto the HAMB forum...lots of traditional hotrodders there who would jump on these parts. THE H.A.M.B. - Powered by vBulletin
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Moe Craig
I don't believe you would want to set toe-in on a trailer, but would want it strait. but would be adjustable as when welding you would be locked into whatever you welded it at... ..e.
Just a touch of toe-in helps it track straight, without any real wear on the tires.

Originally Posted by cigarxtc
... I'm really leaning towards making this a nice little utility trailer for hauling of occasional loads of wood, sand, and maybe a 2007 Suzuki Boulevard C50? I wonder if that would be too much weight?
Does a Suzy weigh more than a flat V8?! I doubt it, even with the steel for the trailer. Like said above, the axle is rated well over a half ton.

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Go onto the HAMB forum...lots of traditional hotrodders there who would jump on these parts. THE H.A.M.B. - Powered by vBulletin
Don't they just use the backing plates and shoes? Or do they use the spindles too? Pretty sure they don't use the drums.
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:10 PM
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You may be right Ross but those that I have sold always wanted spindles, hubs, backing plates, and drums. As I recall, there are some bearings available that will adapt the early Ford spindles to the later hubs but I'm not sure about all the details. The brakes are an upgrade because the shoes are self-energizing. The F250 backing plates are like gold because they are a perfect fit if you are running Buick finned aluminum drums.
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 03:45 PM
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If you do this project i would love to have the driverside steering arm with ball for a fair price, if so send me a pm. sorry for jumpin in. (JIMMY)
 
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:43 PM
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I took a straight axle, 2inch square steel tubing and treated 2" wood floor. I made a very heavy duty 4ft 2in X 8"2in trailer. Total cost was $175.00 You can't buy one that cheap. Used it for a number of years sold it for $300. Great trailer.
 


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