Would My F1 Front Axle and Leaf Springs Make a Good Trailer?
#1
Would My F1 Front Axle and Leaf Springs Make a Good Trailer?
I've got my ifs crossmember installed in my F1, so was prepared to scrap the front axle and attached leaf springs. Then i wondered; can this heap of metal be turned into the bottom of a small flatbed trailer? I haul truck parts, firewood, etc. occasionally. And had to borrow a buddy's trailer today. I'd sure like to have one of my own. I was wondering if anyone here has recycled their front ibeam, springs, and spindles to make a trailer?
#2
#3
Building trailers using front straight axles is a time-honored tradition from farmers and your better back yard mechanics for nearly 100 years. It's probably good for 1000-1500 pounds gross weight (including the weight of the trailer). It really depends on what you want to do with your trailer. We've come a long way since the 40's-50's with trailer axle technology. If you want a trailer that's bigger than a 4x6 pickup box and to be able to actually haul a decent sized load, you're probably better off with a commercial trailer axle and springs. If you just want to look cool with a little matching trailer behind your truck, it'll be perfect for that.
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#5
someone gave me a 1935 ford puck up bed that was made into a trailer using the stock front suspension it wasnt very pretty,I knocked the welds with a hammer...
I made a new frame and used an old axle similar to it and it does fine on the highway.gotta weld the steering components in place tho.
I made a new frame and used an old axle similar to it and it does fine on the highway.gotta weld the steering components in place tho.
#6
I thought about this too... and I am planning on using helm joints so I can tweak the alignment for limit tire wear and adjust the way it trails behind my tow vehicle... Nothing worse than a trailer that doesn't pull well... My current pickup bed trailer is a 8' Chevy bed with a 12 bolt rear end that has the brakes have been stripped off... And wanting to build a 48-49 PU bed trailer to match my 49.
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#8
I think it's a great idea, if you do it right. Like Moe says, being able to set toe-in is a big plus, helps with stability. You'd be able to use 15 or 16" wheels, not those puke 12" you find on the typical Harbor Freight setup. You could also have shocks which you never see on cheapo's. Best of all you can make it exactly the way you want!
PS - if your brake drums are still good, they are worth big money too, new ones are $100+ each
PS - if your brake drums are still good, they are worth big money too, new ones are $100+ each
#9
I don't believe you would want to set toe-in on a trailer, but would want it strait. but would be adjustable as when welding you would be locked into whatever you welded it at... The one part I haven't work out if I should use the axle as my fixed point for the axle or if I should make a mount that goes across the spring mounts to mount and use that as my mounting plate.
#10
I tried to sell it a few years back but no one wanted it. I just dont see any want adds for used F1 front axles in my area. I'm really leaning towards making this a nice little utility trailer for hauling of occasional loads of wood, sand, and maybe a 2007 Suzuki Boulevard C50? I wonder if that would be too much weight?
#12
Go onto the HAMB forum...lots of traditional hotrodders there who would jump on these parts. THE H.A.M.B. - Powered by vBulletin
#13
You may be right Ross but those that I have sold always wanted spindles, hubs, backing plates, and drums. As I recall, there are some bearings available that will adapt the early Ford spindles to the later hubs but I'm not sure about all the details. The brakes are an upgrade because the shoes are self-energizing. The F250 backing plates are like gold because they are a perfect fit if you are running Buick finned aluminum drums.
#15