I have a 2005 Excursion 6.0, mostly bulletproofed, I have a BPD FICM, EGR, oil cooler etc., see sig for more info. I have an issue that's been going on for some time. It started with long crank times, but not a big deal. It's finally to the point that when the engine is cold, it's very hard to start. Cranks slow, billowing white/gray smoke and smelling of fuel. When it finally starts, it just pops right over and runs smoothly. After the hard start, it runs and idles great and will restart with little effort unless it sits for a few hours or overnight. The longer it sets, the harder the start. The cranking usually starts fast, then drops off quickly. Sounds like low battery, even when it's not. I just replaced with sealed batteries that should crank like crazy. I do need to replace the cables, there is some corrosion from old batteries gassing. I'm wondering if that may be the issue? That said, The cables have been cleaned, but don't know what's going on inside. Anyway, I took it to a local shop and they had it for several weeks. Checked the usual stuff, switched out the FICM for a known working unit, wasn't the issue. I was told oil pressure good. They also checked the cam sensor. He had a guy that is well versed in the 6.0 take a look and couldn't get it fixed. Without tearing into the motor anyway. The only thing they charged for was a glow plug module, didn't charge labor for all the diagnostics. I don't think he really wanted to go that route not knowing what they are looking for. I did have the EGR valve out awhile back, it was gunked up and so was the intake. I cleaned the best I could. I will try to get a video of it starting, just looking for suggestions now.

Thanks,
Steve

 

Keep us posted Steve

 

Cables could be problematic, but that would be true during all conditions. Before you got to the GPCM being replaced, that's where I would have expected from the tale.

Actually still do

 

Hey Steve

Do you have a way to read DTCs and PIDs? I use Forscan and a BAFX wifi adapter. About $27. Windows version is free, smart phones about $6. Widows is the full version, smart phones are light. Would help to see koeo, cranking and idle PID values on a cold engine. I would also do a injector buzz test to see if all are clicking. Post back the PIDs:

FICM sync/MPower/LPower/VPower
cranking rpm
ICP psi
IPR % duty cycle
V - reference voltage
Glow plugs - GPCTM/GPL/GPLTM
any fuel level/pump/timing and pulse width

Others may need more.

 

I do have a scan gauge, just need to get time. I will be out of town for business this week, but will start compiling info when I return. In the meantime, here is a video starting .

Steve

 

Gee, it starts like the 2-stroke Jimmy in my Allis dozer.

A video of the rpm from a OBD2 monitor would help. It definitely sounds slow to crank which may be hampering crossing the HPOP pressure threshold, so no fuel initially, But the white smoke is un-ignited fuel, just like the old mosquito sprayers of my youth.

So from my perspective I’d be checking:

• Battery cable integrity. Pictures of battery terminals and at the starter would help.
• Possible hurt starter after all this time.
• Glow Plug operation. If you are not showing any codes this is a time when a clamp-on ammeter is a great tool to determine if and how well the glow plugs are working.

Here’s a 2-stroke starting up. No glow plugs, and the fuel doesn’t burn well due to cold cylinders. When they about to light off there is more strain to the starter.




Someone needs to do a video of a 6.0 starting with the GPCM disconnected ......

 

Watching that, I agree with Jack. I'm starting to think that your starter is turning to slow to actually start the engine. I'd start by replacing the cables and starter per Jack's recommendation. From there you can listen to the engine and see if a base engine problem exists or run proper diagnostics and see how the injectors are doing. If the voltages is too low while cranking, the FICM won't fire the injectors. (Off the top of my head, it's 9.5 for the 6.0 and 10.5 for the 7.3)

 

You probably don't need this reference.

My truck starting cold. Good speed, good glow plugs, no white smoke. Overnight in winter.

 

I did replace the batteries and starter hoping that was part of the issue, but no. So, I finally got the Ex into a good diesel shop. Apparently no compression, he said loosened the oil cap and cranking blew it off, he thinks the rings are shot. Said someone probably got ether happy. The other shop did say it started with ether. I'll probably know more when he looks into it further. I was hoping it was only a HPO leak. Could have been, then they fried the rings starting with ether. Just communicating via text right now but he said he'd check on a long block. I hate to put stupid money into this thing, it's still a good truck and I don't want to scrap it, I can't afford a new truck right now and the Explorer I'm driving goes to my son next month when he gets his license.

 

Probably why they didn't charge for diagnostics.
Maybe they realized they pooched your engine and just tried to get it out...

Just a thought I feel like if it was that bad you would have had massive oil consumption prior. Rings take time to wear.

 

That could be, the shop has been pretty good in the past. I hope to find out more soon. If I could afford it right now, I'd probably buy a new truck but wife facing possible layoff.

 

if the compression is bad and the starter is new, why does the engine turn so slow? It doesn't add up.
I have installed a new 6.0 starter here. Engine cold: 228rpms

 

was the compression tested with a manometer over the glow plug hole? or was a relative compression test done? I would guess a too slow starting speed and a defective FICM

look here at the end of video at 2:50min.:

 

[QUOTE=Hartwig;19100888]was the compression tested with a manometer over the glow plug hole? or was a relative compression test done? I would guess a too slow starting speed and a defective FICM

look here at the end of video at 2:50min.:

That video was before I replaced the starter, it was shot and finally died. I replaced with a gear reduction starter that cranks great. It would still slow down after a few seconds though. I have a BPD FICM which is fine, they actually swapped it out for known working FICM to be sure. I've only had a few texts this evening with the mechanic. I don't think he's done any compression tests yet, said he just got a chance to look at it. I think initial compression diagnosis was from blow by, said cranking it blew the loosened oil cap off.

 

reliable information about cylinder compression can only be obtained from the compression test in which the glow plug hole is checked.

blow by should not be this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsuD...ature=youtu.be