So I stopped a red light last week and while waiting my van just shut off and showed the service engine light.
I restart and pull over to nearest parking lot. nothing appears to be wrong.

I continue driving without problems.

Two hours later, I go to pull out of a driveway and I hit the pedal, the van started to go then stopped for a second, I released the pedal she came back to life, did it one more time and has been ok since.

I know I need to replace the fuel filter. But if it was that dirty/clogged does that sound like a symptom?

thanks, Rob

• Next day...

Today while rolling down hill to my parking spot it shut off without notice. Restarts without problem. ugh.

I'm thinking electrical, It's like the key was shut off.
I replaced the IDM not too long ago and it was nearly the same kind of symptoms. but that time the IDM went, it shut off and did not restart untill I replaced it.

• Next day...

The van is just shutting off (like a ghost turned the key) but restarts and runs well.
My scanguage doesn't show any codes, but the service engine light is on.
Is there a way to get the codes without a OBD scanner? (something like the older cars, where you can jump a wire and count the blinking light)

• Next day...

.

So I finally had the money to bring the van over to the Ford dealer today.
Tell them the problem, tell them I have to wait and all I want is the diagnostic code/problem and then I'll decide if I can fix or let them.

3.5 hours later...
Code was kept secret but it was for the CPS. So I said great, I have a spare (grey one) and I'll do it myself. pay the $60 for the OBD check and pull out to the gas station down the street. 5 mins later back-up CPS in and running. yippie!

I drive down the road, make a hard right turn and WHAM! it shuts off, just like before. So I head back to the dealer and tell them it did it three times within the 20 mins I was gone. Both mechanics and the service rep start telling me that with 785,026 miles it's the crank walking out of position, therefor the sensor can't always get a good read and then the ECU shuts down the motor.

One of the mechanics said I could use a shim (for lack of better terms) to get a better signal...

So I thank them, saying to myself... crank walk my ***! if I had the motor would not be running so well and not showing any other signs of problems like leaky rear or front seals...

Anyways, I've driven about 60 miles today from the second time leaving the dealer and it hasn't missed a beat. perfect.

So... Does anyone here have some input I can think about?

thanks again, Rob

• Next day...

k so I had to run to the store a little while ago... van had been sitting just long enough that the oil temp was 75 deg, same as outside. I started it up drove about 1/4 mile and it shut off but since I was still on the gas pedal it kicked back to life and went about another hundred yards and hesitated a few times. I kept driving... when the oil temps hit the norm 165-174 it was fine, like nothing ever happened before.
This leads me to think something cold related is the cause of the problem, does that make any sense?

• Next day...

And today I started up the van, while letting it warm up it starts to idle ruff then shut off.
So I put in two new air filters and a fuel filter. then took out the CPS cleaned it, But should there be oil on it? stuck my finger in the hole to see if there was any nastys in there and it was clean. so I put the van back together and started it.

Did the exact thing again, idles great for 30 seconds then ruff idle and shuts off.

I'm lost and only have 6 days to fix because I have to be in NYC on the 1st of May for work.

Taking any suggestions, PLEASE!

 

Never had it happen to me but from what has been on here, uvch or
center pin of the plug burned. If not those when you said you were turning
maybe a wire chafed in the steering column

 

Wow, congrats on the miles. I would have to agree the uvch is a pain sometimes,but it's not hard to check. Pull the outter plugs and use an ohm meter. Good luck.

 

You need to check the wiring going to the CPS. It is probably chafed somewhere or the plug is getting loose in side and making interemitent signal.


That crank walk idea is hilarious!!!!!!

 

The uvch was done a while back, not sure unless I dig up the paper work but something like 300-400,000 ago. Does the replacement go bad like the original?

The plug for the CPS is solid and clean, I'll look into the wires on it.
Shoudlk I try another CPS to see if that makes a difference?

As for what the dealer told me about the CPS not working due to crank walk, does that even make sense? and if it does, how to check?

 

Curious, manual or auto?

 

All vans are autos.

 

The CPS or as Ford calls it the CMP is the CAMshaft postion sensor. It reads windows on the CAM gear. Since it doesn't read or come into contact with the crank, then crank walk is not your problem. There was an issue on the OBS trucks with the cam gear walk and needing to shim it, but that was mostly on high HP trucks.
Cam gear (big) on top. Crank gear (small and cut off) on bottom


Next time I paid someone to read codes, I'd make them tell me the codes. What type of scan gauge do you have? I'm guessing the little rectangular ones that won't read codes on our motors. The gray CPS you put in, was it from Ford or IH, or an aftermarket one?

I'd agree with your gut feeling that it's something electrical. The running rough does make it sound like it might be UVCH related, but that won't make the truck stall like you're describing. I'd suggest you start it up and then grab and wiggle every wiring harness you can find to look for an intermittent short or chaffed wiring. Start with the CPS wiring, then check ICP & IPR pigtails. Also check the main wiring harness below and behind the 42 pin connector on the driver side valve cover as well as the IDM and PCM harness.

Any other dash lights flash or not act normal when it dies? Do you have a chip in the truck?

 

The CPS reads the cam gear not the crank but I suppose the cam can have excessive end play. Never heard of a case myself but with your miles anything could be possible. If you really want to check, here is the procedure.

 

Bone stock.
no other warning lights, just service engine soon- but that goes off after it the motor shuts and doesn't come back on till the second or third gremlin shuts the key.
auto / 4R100.
gray CPS, I'm 90% sure was Ford's.
I think I understand about the crank/cam walk - Unlikely cause of the problem. Dealer just wanted to blame something other then their lack of skills. lol
yup ScanguageII from autozone.

I've shaked a few wires, but not the cps or uvch yet. I really hate reaching in there when it's running... It's a van and really tight- no room for error.

 

Would the gpr have anything to do with this kind of problem?
this past winter it had a hard time starting and I'm pretty sure the gpr should be replaced.

 

Tie some strings on some of the harnesses in question while the engine is off and feed them out to where you can reach them and give them a tug after you start the motor.

 

Also check the harness from the IPR. It tends to chafe and can cause similar issues. Best places to look are on the valve cover at the engine connector. Also along the drivers side head after the connector.

Most likely the code was P0340 which is the standard CPS code.

Another thing to look at is the ICP sensor. If it all the sudden tells the PCM it has high pressure, when it really doesn't the IPR will open to reduce the pressure. That will kill the engine also. Pull the connector and look for oil, if you find oil, replace the sensor.

You can also disconnect the ICP, EBP, and MAP sensors one at a time and drive the truck (you will get codes and a CEL, but you will be ok). See if that makes a difference. I have seen where a biased sensor screws up the 5 volt VREF signal they all share......including the CPS.

 

I'm loving the string idea!
I'll check those sensors too.

Great thoughts.

I will report back Monday, time for Sunday cooking and dinner and napping

 

BAD NEWS...

The van is dead.

I paid a local diesel shop mechanic to come over this morning to tell me what is wrong.
He confirmed the CPS was not working properly. We installed a brand new one and the problem still exists. We then checked the wiring for the cps and it looks good. His final thought was the cam has walked just enough to cause this and the motor needs to be replaced.
He used the AE program which showed no other problems.

785,075 and done.

Question:
Do I take the risk with a junkyard motor and all the costs of replacing or buy another 73.psd Van?