Hello all. a few years ago my neighbor go a 62 pick up, i got to help him work on it and the 292 that it came with. Since then i fell in love with y blocks and that rumble they make, wich i think it's very unique.
Well friday i saw an add for a 272 y block on craigslist and by saturday it was in my garage. i'm like a kid with a new toy. I was told it was a 1957 from a f-100. so far i've only noticed it has the ECG letters by the distributor and from what i've read that's what 52-57 blocks came with so so far so good. it has blue valve covers and the rest seems like it was painted yellow or cream (i read through the whole color thread, pretty interesting thread)
I wanted to share with somebody, since the wifes response after i told her what i got was " yes, and...?"
now i don't know much about these engines so i'm exited to work on it and i don't have an unlimited budget but i think this will be a fun thing to work on and de-stress on my free time.

 

it seems like it's all there besides the carb, the oil pump, fuel pump, it has a block heater that conects to the coolant lines and the water pump turns freely if that means anything. Hopefully it's not too bad on the inside and it turns out i have to need a new block. It would've been better if it would've been a running engine, but for $100 i won't mind if it's really bad and can't use it.

 

New YB, Do you have a vehicle that you are planning on putting it in? Just curious... maybe that's why the wife said "yes, and...?"

Anyway, welcome to the world of Y-Blocks (Caution; They are adictive).
If it is a '57 it will have the good head, ECZ-G's.
Does it turn over or is it frozen?

 

YB, welcome to the Y-block Club! You could put the engine in fine form and then go looking for a vehicle . If it is a '57, G heads might be in place. That would be nice.

 

No, I have no truck yet, but i was thinking along the same line that i can get this running nice then go looking for a truck. i doesn't turn, it seems it's frozen. previous owner said it went about half turn then seized, the front bolt broke so he stopped trying. I poured some oil down the spark plug holes and it's sitting there, i'll see if i can get it moving sometime tomorrow or wednesday.
As far as the heads go. I couldn't find any #'s on the heads so i'm not sure about that. what I did find is that the rocker arms are ECG 6564. from what i read that's the higher ratio rockers, so that's good at least. The G heads? all i've read is that they have smaller combustion chambers and larger valves, is that right? what else makes them better? do they flow better? better design? now i'm hoping I have those :-)

 

G heads are the best offered in the original. Only thing better is the aluminum heads offered by John Mummert. Check out his site, as there is a bunch of useful info.

With a stuck engine I have had the best luck taking off the heads and oil pan, lubing the cylinders, breaking loose pistons from the bottom end using a wooden stick like a broom handle. The idea is not to hurt the rods, because pistons are toast anyway. Some guys soak the piston/cylinders from top side with coke a cola, letting the acid do its job. Or maybe vineger sounds better.

Sorry, but the chances of getting away with anything other than a full engine rebuild is remote. So the good idea is a plan to bore the 272 out to 292.

 

Look under the intake flange. Gs are among the best heads. 113s and 471s are also good and actually flow slightly better but they have bigger combustion chambers so you will loose some compression, everything else being equal. You can get compression back with milling or domed pistons. Another thing is that all 113 and 471 heads have posted chambers and can support more compression or boost than heads which are not posted. G heads can go either way, posted or not posted. For a pump gas, naturally aspirated street engine, the posts are not so important, you probably will not have enough compression for it to be a concern.

 

Welcome to y-block world! Looks like you have several hundred $ of parts there if it turns out to be a bad block. The tube that runs across the top is for a water cooled auto trans. It looks like this engine was mounted in something that it was not stock to - that mount on the bottom drivers side does not appear to be stock. It's a little hard to see in the photo, but it appears that you'll need a differant timing cover and water pump if you plan to put this in a mid-50s Ford truck in some what of an original configuration.

Have fun with it!

 

Is the front bolt that broke off the damper bolt, in the center of the pulley? If so that may be a big problem. It will prevent removing damper, front mount, and timing cover. The force needed for it to break was likely over 150 ft. lbs., so the remnant is in there tight, and unless it is extracted the crank cant be used. Without the bolt, getting the crank of a stuck engine to roll over enough to position rods and pistons for removal will be challenging.

I once had a block where the two threaded holes next to the damper bolt were stripped, preventing the use of a puller. I took a 17 lb, 5 foot, steel bar used in fence installation, and pryed off the damper by going from side to side and using wood blocks. It ruined the damper, but no big deal there. Finding a replacement crank should be fairly easy.

The front mount that Brian pointed out is sought after by some hot rodders. I sold one on ebay for $60 recently.

 

If the bolt broke then the damper is likely only held on by friction and rust and should be relatively easy to pull off. Cut a piece of pipe that fits over the bolt threads, and inside the damper to the necessary length so that it fits against the crank and over any protruding crank bolt then fit a piece of plate over that pipe and you have a solid, flat surface to use to press the damper off.

To turn the engine, you can get a flywheel turning tool or use a screwdriver and some leverage to engage the teeth of the flywheel, or remove the flywheel and us the flywheel bolts to wedge a big screwdriver to use it as a lever.

 

yes, right by the distributor under the intake the le letter ECZ-G, that's pretty cool and today after work i came home and got it to turn over. I don't know why the damper bolt broke because it wastn't that hard to turn, i just put two bolts in the crank and used a large wrench and it made a little pop and then it turned pretty good. I poured some oil in the cylinders and it had been sitting like that since monday.
I shouldn't say the bolt broke, it was mor of the head that broke and the bolt is sticking out of the damper a little. I don't think it will be that hart to remove and i think i can still get a hold of it with some visegrips as it is right now.
This makes me want to go find a starter and a carb and try to start it and see if it runs, even though i think it still would need a rebuild. I'm definetly having fun with it

 

Congrats on the heads, turnover and the bolt. If needed a nut can be welded to the bolt's shank.

 

Lucky devil! Wish I could find a set of $100 Gs.

 

Hey, I have a set of G's I will sell you for $100. Been using them for door stops and wheel stops for a few years now, but they LOOK GOOD...

Of coarse they would probably cost you $200 in shipping from SOCAL.

Yeah, 46, I saw that BS on that OTHER SITE...

 

What BS would that be? I'm not very good at BS.