So Ive did some searching on the forums about this. Great info, especially from

INSTALLING A MID-60's Mustang Tank in a '53 F-100 truck

Im probably gonna go with the 20 gallon 69 Mustang/Cougar Tank
30-1/4 x 22" x 9"

Reading some info here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-gas-tank.html

Got a couple questions:

I like the filler that Sam has, is this the round one Mid-Fifty sells? I also like how the neck is below the bed, no gas on the wood. Plus no super precise cutting in the wood, seems to me me leeway incase I have a ohhh shhhhh moment.



I currently have a 16 gallon Poly tank in the rear of my truck that I bought many years ago from Mid Fifty, but I think I wanna go for the 20 gallon mustang tank, I have a 460.

**I plan on using some of the same parts from my poly tank, vent valve and such.****

'69 Mustang/Cougar Tank is what Im thinking about.

1. The gas sender is on the front of the tank toward the bottom correct?

2. The pick up tube going to the fuel pump. I dont see it in the article. Did you all have to drill a hole for that and install the tube and the rubber grommet? Or is the pick up hole there? Have to order the rubber grommets?

3. The vent valve. You had to drill a hole for the vent valve like in Johns article correct? How did you do yours? (I have the vent valve in my poly tank. Small 90 degree port in a grommet. Figured I would use that if I can, and find some more rubber grommets, prob cant find the grommets, Ha)

4. You were able to put your cross member back in the end like in the article correct?

5. There isnt a special sending unit to get for these is it? I got the one from Mid Fifty, gauge and sender. Ill prob get another sender, just to keep new stuff in it.

Seems pretty simple, just weld up the tubing frame for the tank. Weld the nuts and bolt it in and make all the connections.

Thanks for all the help

Patrick

 

1. The gas sender is on the front of the tank toward the bottom correct?

Yes and so is the pick up tube. See pic one.

2. The pick up tube going to the fuel pump?

See above.

3. The vent valve. You had to drill a hole for the vent valve like in Johns article correct? How did you do yours?

See pic two. (JB weld rules)

4. You were able to put your cross member back in the end like in the article correct?

Not applicable, f1.

5. There isn’t a special sending unit to get for these is it?

I pretty sure that the Ford tank sender is not compatible with most gauges unless you have a Ford gauge that has the same impendence, a chart is here if needed. The aftermarket sender mounts completely different from the Ford one and in spite of rumors there is no adaptor available. So either match the gauge to the ford sender (autometer makes only one model) or install a new sender as in pic two.

 

Thanks,

I should be more specific. I understand the impedance issue with the gauge and sender.

Im more curious about the bolt pattern of the Mustang tanks and the senders that are available today. Ill call Mid-Fifty because my gauge still is good Im sure, Im prob gonna order a new sender for my tank though. More worried about the bolt pattern, ie no adapter for bolt needed.

Patrick

 

Do you mean the bolt pattern of the sender?

If so, the OEM sender uses a locking ring, no bolts, and even if there was an adaptor the aftermarket float would be at the wrong angle. Let me know what mid says, please.

 

there is no other sender available for this tank as an option in the standard hole..

I cut a hole in the top of mine and used the aftermarket std Autometer 240-33 ohm sender. (from jegs)
Auto Meter 3262 Auto Meter Fuel Level Sender
see this pic

note that I had to offset the sender a little, due to the pickup tube from the stock sender getting in the way of the float arm. I SHOULD have used the round location (shown in the upper left corner) for placing the aftermarket sender, but as usual, 20-20 hindsight is perfect!..

I removed the float portion of the stock sender, and used the fuel barb portion (pickup tube) to run my fuel line.. (there is also no other stock replacement for the hose barb).. many have drilled a second hole and soldered in a second pipe for EFI return lines,, but nothing comes pre-built that way.

the stock sender (1969 Ford Mustang Fuel Sending Unit - Spectra FG86B - Without fuel pump) is held in by a wedge lock ring, pressing the sender plate against the sealing gasket.. (all shown in the link above)

mine is the 1970 20gal tank which is 2 inches taller than the flat top 1968/69 tank. (John Niolon also did this change from the flattop to domed top, I am just following in his esteemed footsteps).
I used a gas cap neck from a mid 90's chevy truck, and the cover is from Autozone or Advance Auto, metal, chrome and locking.
I used the overflow port in the fill neck for the vent hose, to a chassis mounted vent valve from midfifty..
Sam

 

Ha. Now Im totally confused. Ill prob get the 69 20 gallon tank, if I understand this all.

I thought there was the sender on the lower front part of the tank in Johns article that he had taped up? Sam you used this for your fuel line? Would that be a good idea on the bottom like that? Anything to block it off and just drill a hole in the top?

Sam you redrilled your sender unit on top? Is that difficult and how did the other sender mount in there? You would mount it in the corner?

And you used a port off the neck for the vent valve?

And where is your fuel door from????? That is sharp

Sorry for all the questions, Im totally mediocre.

Patrick

 

.......................!

 

well, it was taped to keep dirt out.. you MUST seal this big hole to keep the gas in the tank.. and there is only one stock way.. install the sender..
Old-F1 has a really good pic above. the sender is dual function.. not only the signal for the fuel in tank, but also where the hose to the fuel pump attaches to the tank.. most modern senders are this way..
yes.. if ford can do it, why can't I? its the standard fuel routing on these tanks.
yes, cut a hole (3 in diameter as I recall), and used self taping screws and the gasket to hold it on. typical approach, just like Old-F1 did on his tank pictured above.
correct

late model chevy truck accessory isle at autozone or advance auto. $15 I think

nah...

 

so, lets try a different set of words

on a gas tank you need 4 things

1. way to get gas in (fill neck)
2. way to get gas out to the engine (pickup tube)
3. way to tell how much gas is IN the tank (or not) (sender)
4. vent (with rollover protection possibly)

the stock thing that goes in the bottom of the mustang tank does 2 & 3 as one physical unit. but the ohm range of the sender isn't compatible with any gauges we like to use in our trucks..(stock or updated)...

SO.. we need a new item 3 (sender)
we can get them, but they do NOT fit where the original unit fts.. and the aftermarket senders are JUST THAT.. only senders.. no pickup tube..

we still NEED the pickup tube..

so, you install the combo 2 & 3 stock unit, which seals the 3 inch hole in the bottom of the tank, and don't USE the gas level sensor part.. ( i just cut it off the pickup tube to eliminate troubles)..

now you have to come up with a new sender.. and figure out how to get it into the tank so it will work.. some have a float that slides up & down directly at the unit..
some have an arm with a float on the end that changes the arm angle depending on the fuel level.

so, the second type you could put in a corner and have the float out near the middle and get the arm angle motion..

the kind that is wrapped around the sender support, would need to be more in the middle to be able to get the full fuel level ranges.

------- so, net, you need to buy and install both the stock unit, and the aftermarket unit, cause you need both functions.. pickup tube (on the stock unit) and fuel level sender (on the aftermarket unit)..

------ and you WILL need to vent the tank.. you can do this the old way thru a vented cap (ie, not 100% sealed).. or thru a vent valve... most good vent valve assemblies also shut off if they are turned upside down to prevent fuel leakage in a roll over accident. these tanks were designed BEFORE vent valves.. so you have to add something to get the vapors to the vent valve. there is NO hole provided in the tank for this. the vent tube inlet needs to NOT be able to pick up liquid fuel, else it could push liquid fuel out the vent when the tank is full on a hot day.
so you want the vent connection to be as high as possible, and the actual vent valve even higher. (but at least not lower)..

just one thing on the old filler caps.. they vent ALL the time.. not just when needed.. in my shop, this left a fuel smell I was uncomfortable with.. (will the vapors ignite if I turn on the compressor, or the fridge in the corner cycles overnight?).. the vent valves ONLY vent when they NEED to (pressure on the the little ball sitting on the top of the tube)..

hope this helps

I left you a voicemail.. but decided to answer here as I gotta go out back and get some work done...

Sam

 

Sam,..................your the man !!!!

 

Yeah, that is awesome!!!!!

Appreciate all the help. Ill prob order the stuff today and hopefully get this thing in next weekend or so. Shouldnt take too long. He he he. Well maybe 30 mins at least.

 

and warning, WARNING

BEFORE you cut any hole, check the minimum depth of the new sender (and any interference), the Autometer 240-33 sender I referenced is adjustable for different tank depths, BUT there is a minimum depth.. which MIGHT be TOO long (without modification) for the corner install..

Sam

ps.. I centered the sender, cut the hole and ran smack into the stock sender tube..
SO, I had to RECUT the hole and repair the tank..

so learn from my mistake!

 

Well after multiple conversations and help from the board Members(Thanks everyone) I did a lot of searching on the internet and will post my links here to save anyone else the confusion I have had.

On John "Amazing" Niolon's website it specifically tells you how to install one of these tanks. His website has the dimensions for the 69 Mustang/Cougar gas tank, that I will be attempting to install.

Excerpt from Johns website:

( One item I did forget to mention in the first edition of this article. It will be necessary to cut out a portion of the lower frame rail lip to make the tank fit. I used a plasma cutter and cut out 1/2" from the inside edge of each rail. It won't weaken the rail in the least and is necessary to have adequate room for the tank. At least, that was true on the 16 gallon unit. According to the dimensions given on gastanks.com's web site.. the 20 and 22 gallon tanks are actually narrower (30-1/4" vrs 32-5/8") than the 16 gallon tank so the notching may not be necessary if you use the larger tanks. They make up the difference in the height of the tanks. )

'69 Mustang/Cougar Tank
30-1/4 x 22" x 9"
capacity 20 gallons
original part # C9ZZ9002A
their part # f-28-C priced now at $ 139.00

After looking around and going to www.gastanks.com which will redirect you to a Quantra) it has the dimensions stated as this:

Features: With Drain Plug
Capacity: 20 gallons
Dimensions: 32-5/8" x 24-1/2" x 9"
Original Part Number: C9ZZ9002A
Free with Tank: Rubber O-ring and lock ring for sending unit
Packaging: Foam-wrapped, stretch-wrapped and boxed
Part Number: F-28C


Im not sure if something has changed on the manufacturing or anything but after going to numerous websites looking at dimensions and trying to get the best deal, I found one website with the old dimensions. So not sure if they are measuring just the tank body, or the whole tank flange to flange. I havent called to verify what dimensions are correct, but........Im going on faith. Ill try to remember to post later.

Mustangs Unlimited - Mustang Parts Superstore - FREE shipping!


Tank: $99.95 with additional oversized shipping 14.95

This fuel tank has a show-quality finish with a nickel tin coating inside & outside to prevent rust & corrosion; includes drain plug & sending unit retaining ring. Dimensions: 30-1/4" W x 22" L x 9" H.

Mustangs Unlimited - The Premier Source for Mustang, Shelby and Cougar Parts and Accessories

Stock Sending unit: $26.95

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...B+01&dep_key1=



Autometer Sending unit for Ohm 240/33: $29.45

Auto Meter 3262 - Auto Meter Universal Fuel Level Sending Units - Overview - SummitRacing.com


Hope this all helps and it solves any problems anyone else is having. Thanks to Sam and F1.

Patrick

 

nice summary.. I bought my tank from gastanks.com. (i think)

sam

 

Yeah. The dimensions are prob wrong. Every site I look at has the other 32 inches. But regardless. I'm getting it.