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3.31 vs 3.55 rear gears

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  #16  
Old 03-22-2011, 11:30 PM
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They are probably rivited on,ill have a look at my truck in the morning and see
 
  #17  
Old 03-22-2011, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by deeznuts822
They are probably rivited on,ill have a look at my truck in the morning and see
They are. Is there any easy way to get them off without drilling or cutting? The truck is going to the scrap yard regardless so I'm not worried about nicking the frame or anything.
 
  #18  
Old 03-23-2011, 07:49 AM
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You've pretty much got three options when it comes to rivets. Drill them out, grind the head off and hit it with a chisel, or high explosives.
 
  #19  
Old 03-23-2011, 08:48 AM
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You guys are making this axle swap WAY too complicated. Only 3 things have to be disconnected, the driveshaft, the main brake line at the block connector on the axle, and the leaf spring U bolts. If it takes you more than 5 minutes to have the axle out from under the truck you'e being to nice.
 
  #20  
Old 03-23-2011, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
any engine made to rev higher to go the same speed will use more fuel to do it.

Not necessarally. One of the functions of the tuner system I have is a real time mpg readout. When travelling at 55mph on an incline if the transmission is in OD engine speed is about 1500rpm and fuel consumption is 12mpg mainly because engine load is near maximum. Pull the trans down to drive, engine speed jumps to 2200rpm, engine load drops to about 30%, and instantaneous mpg goes to 20.
 
  #21  
Old 03-23-2011, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
You guys are making this axle swap WAY too complicated. Only 3 things have to be disconnected, the driveshaft, the main brake line at the block connector on the axle, and the leaf spring U bolts. If it takes you more than 5 minutes to have the axle out from under the truck you'e being to nice.

...and the shocks...and the swaybar.
 
  #22  
Old 03-23-2011, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by White Max
...and the shocks...and the swaybar.
Opps.... a minor oversight.

Still.. it should not take too long, buy some new U-bolts ahead of time and it's a pretty easy bolt-in affair.
 
  #23  
Old 03-23-2011, 09:04 AM
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Just giving you some trouble.

I'm with you on the "less talking about it, more getting it done" attitude.
 
  #24  
Old 03-29-2011, 10:44 PM
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Got everything disconnected except the Ubolts and the main brake line. The one that comes down from the Frame to the axle. I can't get the steel tubes off the T Junction either but they'll come off once I get the axle off.

I have one big question though. The main brake hose from the Frame to the Axle. On the upper portion that connects through the hole in the frame. There's a locking clip on the line that appears to be between the fittings. How does this part of the hose come apart? I stripped the Vent tube so I can't get the T-junction loose so I'm just going to buy a new brake hose. Problem is that I can't get the brake hose off.

How does the locking clip come off and how does the hose disconnect from the metal tube along the frame?
 
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