Power for additional lock actuators
#1
03-16-2011, 07:26 PM
Power for additional power lock actuators
I’ve been looking for wiring diagrams for the door locks for awhile now, never found anything useful.
Several sites on the net had colors and locations listed, but none matched.
So a little searching and I found the trigger wires for the door locks.
Old style lock actuators were solenoids, plungers and coils and they used a bit of current to operate, hence they usually had decent size wires you could tap into for additional locks.
Newer style are servo or “screw” type (not sure of the correct name for them).
These actuators use a lot less power then the old style.
On the new SD’s these are controlled by the BCM and use very small wires, 18 or 20 gauge. They are also a “pulse” type meaning the module sends an approximately 1 second pulse to the lock motor. This is not enough current or duration to operate solenoids.
My new toolbox is equipped with two lock solenoids and I will be adding the tailgate power lock.
I found the trigger wires behind the passenger kick panel in the large connector plugged into the fuse box.
This picture shows the fuse box and connector cover removed to access the wires.
On a side note: after I finally did this project someone on one of the other boards was kind enough to actually post the wiring diagram
The wires that trigger the locks are violet/white and gray/tan.
These colors may also be violet/gray gray/brown depending on how good your eyes are J
Several sites on the net had colors and locations listed, but none matched.
So a little searching and I found the trigger wires for the door locks.
Old style lock actuators were solenoids, plungers and coils and they used a bit of current to operate, hence they usually had decent size wires you could tap into for additional locks.
Newer style are servo or “screw” type (not sure of the correct name for them).
These actuators use a lot less power then the old style.
On the new SD’s these are controlled by the BCM and use very small wires, 18 or 20 gauge. They are also a “pulse” type meaning the module sends an approximately 1 second pulse to the lock motor. This is not enough current or duration to operate solenoids.
My new toolbox is equipped with two lock solenoids and I will be adding the tailgate power lock.
I found the trigger wires behind the passenger kick panel in the large connector plugged into the fuse box.
This picture shows the fuse box and connector cover removed to access the wires.
On a side note: after I finally did this project someone on one of the other boards was kind enough to actually post the wiring diagram
The wires that trigger the locks are violet/white and gray/tan.
These colors may also be violet/gray gray/brown depending on how good your eyes are J
#2
03-16-2011, 07:28 PM
I used four standard automotive style relays. These just happened to be in my toolbox.
These are 4 connector relays. The same type with 5 wires could be used and then only two relays would be needed.
Basically what the relays do is when triggered with an open or close signal, two relays close and supply power to the locks.
When the opposite signal is received the other two relays close and reverse the current to the locks
The relays are wire tied to a cable running along the body up high in the dash
(3rd picture)
These are 4 connector relays. The same type with 5 wires could be used and then only two relays would be needed.
Basically what the relays do is when triggered with an open or close signal, two relays close and supply power to the locks.
When the opposite signal is received the other two relays close and reverse the current to the locks
The relays are wire tied to a cable running along the body up high in the dash
(3rd picture)
#4
03-16-2011, 07:30 PM
The relays need a B+ supply and ground
I ran a 10 gauge wire out to the right side battery for this.
I used 10 gauge as I will be using the feed for several other projects, including a 50 watt 2 meter radio and bed lights.
The 10 gauge just runs down the fender liner and is punched up through this plug under the rug.
I ran a 10 gauge wire out to the right side battery for this.
I used 10 gauge as I will be using the feed for several other projects, including a 50 watt 2 meter radio and bed lights.
The 10 gauge just runs down the fender liner and is punched up through this plug under the rug.
#5
03-16-2011, 07:31 PM
#6
03-17-2011, 07:02 AM
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These are 4 connector relays. The same type with 5 wires could be used and then only two relays would be needed.
Basically what the relays do is when triggered with an open or close signal, two relays close and supply power to the locks.
When the opposite signal is received the other two relays close and reverse the current to the locks
The relays are wire tied to a cable running along the body up high in the dash
(3rd picture)
ontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> I used four standard automotive style relays. These just happened to be in my toolbox.These are 4 connector relays. The same type with 5 wires could be used and then only two relays would be needed.
Basically what the relays do is when triggered with an open or close signal, two relays close and supply power to the locks.
When the opposite signal is received the other two relays close and reverse the current to the locks
The relays are wire tied to a cable running along the body up high in the dash
(3rd picture)
#7
03-17-2011, 08:46 AM
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#8
03-17-2011, 08:53 AM
85 & 86 are the relay control pins
30 is the power(or ground) in (to the thing) side
87 is the switched power(or ground) OUT (to the thing), not connected to 30 at rest, connected to 30 when 85/86 triggered
87a is the UNswitched power(or ground) OUT (to the thing) connected to 30 at rest, not connected when 85/86 triggered
4 pin relays do not have pin 87a
sam
30 is the power(or ground) in (to the thing) side
87 is the switched power(or ground) OUT (to the thing), not connected to 30 at rest, connected to 30 when 85/86 triggered
87a is the UNswitched power(or ground) OUT (to the thing) connected to 30 at rest, not connected when 85/86 triggered
4 pin relays do not have pin 87a
sam
#11
03-17-2011, 10:53 AM
#13
03-17-2011, 12:00 PM
#14
03-17-2011, 08:52 PM
If you look at the battery picture there is a water tight fuse holder about 3" from the positive terminal.
#15
03-17-2011, 08:55 PM
The toolbox is a Truck covers USA toolbox-roll top combo. for $35 extra the factroy puts in a power lock soleniod on both sides.
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