I just bought a tekonsha voyager and its on my 78 ford so i had to wire it all (no plug and play) and it all works but when i press my brake pedal nothing happens i can slide the manual slide bar and the green light turns red. i hooked my red wire (for the brake pedal) up to my green wire (right turn/brakes) my dad has the same brake controller and when you hit the brakes it switches form green to red. does anyone know what the problem is?

 

Greetings...I just installed a new Voyager myself...I have the instructions here...Mine say to hook up the red wire to the cold side of the brake pedal switch for my 86 truck...I believe if your truck is a 78 you should hook it up there also...

Pete

 

i did it too and it dont work, i also have another voyager laying around and it does the same thing.

 

I am stumped on that one...I hope you figure it out...and let us know what you did...

This is a shot in the dark here...if the trailer brakes are not receiving electric signal from controller or controller is not sensing the brakes...you may have a broken line going to the brakes on the trailer or a bad connection at the plug...That's all I can think of

Sorry man,

Pete

 

Do your brake lights on the truck work?

 

With that setup:

you know your trailer brakes will surge when you turn right, right?...

 

i figured it out i had a bad connection that hooks up for the brakes but i still cant figure out whats up with the cold side wire for the brakes, on the turn sigonal wire it was just to test it so i could see if it worked does anyone know witch wire it would be, there are two wires that go to my brake pedal and neither one tests hot. so i dont know what to do there.

 

One should have power all the time, apparently your brake lights dont work. check fuses

 

Bashby is right...one of the brake light wires on the switch at the brake pedal should always be hot. The other wire will be cold until the brake pedal is depressed. I know you know this...and the cold wire is where you hook up...but like Bashby said...if you have no power to either of those wires when the pedal is not depressed...you may have a blown fuse. If it turns out the fuse is out and you replace it and it blows again you may have a dead short in the wiring.

If the fuse is out and you replace it and the fuse blows when you hit the brake pedal you have a dead short somewhere going to the taillights...Also...I have found over the years that it is a good idea to check the grounds also...just for fun!

I know this is getting ahead with the fuse bit, I am just trying to think ahead if that fuse thing happens to you..Good luck man and like I said...Let us know how it turns out. You can do it!

Pete

 

the switch at your brake pedal is a grounding switch... neither side will be hot. The normally open switch closes when you push the pedal and connects the ground wire for the circuit.

 

UH... no its not. Even if it was one wire would still have power on it.

 

I say again...Bashby is right...one of those wires is hot...take your test light and hook up to a good ground and probe those wires...you will find one is hot and one is cold when the brake pedal is not depressed.

Pete

 

Bashby...I think TexasRebel is trying to pull our legs...LOL

 

it depends on how you're testing them...

with a grounding switch, it will have an impedance between the voltage source and the measuring tool. If the tool does not have sufficient impedance to prevent current flow you will end up measuring the voltage AFTER the drop from the load... which will not measure as 12v. Similar results will show up if you're using a test light... it might be lighting, but very dimly and not noticeable.

My experience with big 3 electrical systems in the 1970's is that they really liked to use grounding switches (door switches ground the lighting when the door opens, brake switch grounds the lighting when the pedal is depressed, horn button grounds horn relay, etc...)