I can tell you the Eastwood "Rust Encapsulator and Extreme Chassis Black" is no where near as strong/durable as POR-15 is. I've got over $300 worth of the Eastwood products sitting on the shelf and I'm not going to use them on my truck. I'm going to buy POR-15 for my 54. I decided I only want to do this once! If you want a good deal on some "Rust Encapsulator" PM me I'm more then willing to sell you mine.

 

It was my bad on spraying the Chassis Saver. Read instructions??what are they for? Said mix with what ever thinner they recommended. I used lacquer thinner - should have known something was wrong when the paint cup started getting warm and the paint bubbling. Sprayed some seat springs and frames anyway. After 2 wks still tacky. Thought about Zero Rust? I think they are one of our sponsors.

 

I have decided to go with east woods chassis paint. I am going to start with the rust convector then the rust encapsulator and follow up with the paint. Curious if this is the right process and how much of each is required to do the frame, axles, etc. I'm going to use aresol for the paint also. Thanks

 

I am in process of doing a frame up bare restore. I sand blasted using 8o grit aluminum oxide. A bit on the expensive side I used POR products. First Marine Clean, then Prep and Ready, then three coats of POR 15. First silver then black then silver, for good coverage, then two coats of POR chassis black. Not certain it was worth the expense, but with all the work getting the frame to that state, I just decided to try POR. I have used Zero Rust on another project. It was less expensive. It does not get hard like the POR products. I also painted the front and read axles with POR15 and POR Hardnose. POR Hardnose is really HARD!!! After a week of not touching it While I was placing the front axles back in place I dropped one on the concrete floor. Not a smudge! It was expensive and in general a bit of work to clean the gun I sprayed it with.
When I get enough posts here so that I can post attachements, I will put up some picts on my 1973 restore thread.

 

I'm going with the POR Hardnose black over my entire frame, suspension, drivetrain ( except the engine ) on my 78 F150 4x4 chassis. After I give it all a couple coats of POR-15. As you found out the hardnose paint is tougher then their chassis paint is! I figure it's about as tough as you can get. It's not quick or cheap. But I don't want to have to worry about re-doing this in a few years. So it's well worth the money and the work.

If you upload your pics on a free photobucket account you can post them now! That's how I post my pics.

 

Thanks for the pics tip.

BTW:
To spray the front and rear axles I used one Qt of POR15 black, 1 Qt POR15 silver and 1 Qt POR15 Hardnose black.
To spray this stuff I used their thinner for the POR15.
For thinning the POR15 Hardnose I used Xylene.
The gun used was a Devilbiss GTI with a 1.5 tip.
Use a good respirator or external breathable air system otherwise you will super glue the alveoli in your lungs!

Used up the full Qt of POR15 Hardnose spraying three coats.

Still have about a third of a Qt of the POR15 black and about half a Qt of the POR15 silver. I used two colors to get visibility of good coverage.

For the frame and all the other chassis parts I used 1 Gal of POR15 Silver 3 Qt of POR15 Black and 2 Qt of POR Chassis black. I think I could have got by with just 3 Qt of the POR15 silver. Think I had just over 1 Qt of teh silver left over.

The rel humidity where I live is 50-60% The POR15 and the POR15 Chassis Black took about 3 hours between coats. That was a lot of work around the clock doing successive re-coats.

The POR15 Hardnose went on very quickly I was done with all three coats in about 2 hours. Make sure it flashes well between coats. and then don't touch it for 4 or more days. It starts our quite soft.

I can say it looks really nice. Time will tell if it was all worth it.

 

I don't have the equipment to spray it on so I'm just going to brush it on. It still comes out nice and smooth when you brush it on. It's just a little more work.

 

I brushed mine on. I didn't use near as much, I used about a quart and a half for my frame, both axles, and a bunch of brackets and what-not.

 

just remember not to wipe the brush on the lip of the can like you do with paint. it will weld the lid to the can, you will have to destroy the can to get it open, and you will end up painting the entire radiator support with a 3/4" paint brush because its the only one you can find in the shop for fear of the paint drying while you drive 25 miles (one way) to the home depot to get a new can hoping that there will still be some dry, usable paint left when you get home...

 

That's why you poor the paint into a different container before you start painting. And have plenty of all the supplies on hand before you start!

 

Exactly. I bought one of those plastic pouring aids, that you clip on the top of the can lid. It keeps the paint off of the rim of the can. And I bought a TON of sponge brushes. They don't last long, but they lay the POR-15 down better than normal brushes do. I had several small plastic cups that I used to pour the POR-15 into, so you could wipe the brush if needed.

 

Those small plastic cereal bowls are good too. Just have a good excuse for using them. For some reason POR15 seems to cover a lot more than advertised so I always make sure to have enough things to paint. Lacquer thinner works well for clean up and cleaning the lip of the can.

 

For cheap money you can get a siphon feed sandblaster. Use 3$ a bag playsand. Cheap/easy, does a GREAT job. I went with 2 coats rustoleam self etching primer(spray can) and brushed over with rustoleam gloss black oil based. This front section of frame took about 5 hours to sandblast/prime/paint.

The rustoleam paint on nice and thick and lays flat as it dries.

ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

 

they do work, I have one I use one for all my projects, they're just not as fast as a commercial unit (naturally)

i don't remember which it is, but one of the four wheel drive magazines out has an article on a spray on bed liner this month. only inaccuracy that i found in it was that texture can be changed by allowing the mixture to sit before laying the last coat.

 

I just finished a rear end with KBS Rustseal. It's basically just like Por 15, only ebay had a sampler kit which was all I needed. I would've went with Por 15. It brushed on, and the brush strokes went away when it dried. It's hard as a rock. My only complaint is that the rear looks so good it makes the rest look bad, gotta do the rest now.