Funny that I have no trouble loaded/unloaded, towing, or not, I can fly down the interstate with my 99 ext van with no stabilizer, and I drive using one hand, my other is busy with the control for gas/brake, as I have no use of my legs. I've driven lifted 4x4's with oversize tires without this item, is society such wimps we can't control a vehicle without aids. hell, my 73 E-100 mas manual steering. If it feels loose, a damper isn't the answer, replacing the worn or faulty components is, a damper is a bandaid to cover a hidden problem. Now if you have a 350, the tires will give you feedback, they are load E, heavy with lots of plys and belts, impossible to get true, I don't care who does them.
Just adding this for those in 1/2 ton vans.

 

My take on the problem is a lack of caster in the original design. Caster is basically how much trail the front wheels have behind the steering axis (think about the front wheels on a shopping cart). More caster gives a stronger return-to-center but also makes the steering heavier. Ours feels like a tricycle with the front wheels wandering freely.

The dampener doesn't change caster but it will provide resistance to movement. So while it's not a 'proper' fix it definitely improves driveability. You'll have to judge if that's a change you want to make on yours.

 

Well .. I'm going to try it. Have already ordered the parts. I'll report back on my test next week. Thanks for your response.

 

Caster will change when under load though, as weight has the van sitting lower, the down side of the beam design.

 

Thanks for the post…I’m super stoked to be driving my van in the stress-free zone instead of the white-knuckled area. I’ve got a 2007 E-350 with the optional AdvanceTrac w/ RSC (Roll Stability Control) that was like driving a kite in a hurricane...and that on a cloudless windless day down the freeway at 75mph. It would jolt one direction and I would spend two or three steering wheel turns trying to correct only to be jolted the other direction…etc, etc, etc. I purchased a used set of brackets including the OEM frame bolts from a 2003 shuttle ($35) and the Monroe SC2955 Magnum Steering Damper from Amazon.com ($33.42). I installed the steering stabilizer by tapping the frame holes with a 10 x 1.5 tap and was done with the complete install in about 30-mins. The next day I loaded up the family and drove to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon…and like I said, I’m as giddy as a kid in a candy store with the handling. All through the mountainous twisting roads of the Kaibab Forest and the pot-holed narrow roads of the National Park there was not a white-knuckled episode…as long as you don’t count my wife’s as I banked through a 35mph corner at about 50 (she doesn’t like roller coasters either).

 

I have an 1989 E250 based conversion and it doesn't have the predrilled holes as far as I can see.

Has anyone tried one of these?

MONROE SA1930 Steering Damper/Steering Stabilizer | eBay

 

Steve I've seen that stabilizer somewhere here on FTE, possibly in the earlier part of this very thread. It seems to be a decent option for adding on to a frame that won't readily accommodate the factory-type brackets.

 

You are correct , there are no pre drilled holes . I finally installed mine today in my 88 by simply drilling and tapping holes in a location slightly forward of the drag link , then installing hardened bolts with red Locktite . There is a slight elevation issue on the underside of the frame since there is a lap in the frame material which creates a slight gap between the frame rail and most of the lower tab of the bracket . I simply ground a flat on 2 washers to fit up to the lap and fill the space between the inner rail and the lower mounting tab . Ideally this gap could be filled by welding in a small piece of metal which would also allow for some extra threads for the bottom bolt hole .

 

Repower can you snap some photos of your install? Might be helpful for anyone with your same chassis.

 

just over a week...

I've nearly forgotten that I installed this, no bad anything or screaming reviews.

the van drives nice...

thanks for all the help.http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums...ies2/thumb.gif

 

I recently got an 95 E-150 with 175k miles on it from my parents. A few questions and additions:

• The steering had 3-4" of play on the top, my mechanic tighened it up a bit, but it's still not great (haven't installed the damper yet). Is it worth doing a steering box at the same time? They are ~$120 for a rebuild and look like an easy install.
• I got the damper on Amazon for cheap with free shipping
• I got the brackets for $124 shipped from ford-parts-depot on ebay with CA tax, so ~$112 or so. Cheapest I could find online
• Any ideas on torques for the bolts?

Looking foward to getting this mod done!

Jason

 

I think your best bet is to fix the steering play before doing the stabilizer, just get all that crap fixed. Then you can assess if it needs further help.

Others can answer more precisely but it sounds like your ball joints are ready to replace, then maybe the steering box if needed.

 

I had the ball joints done, and a new drag link put in, along with an alignment. Tie rods were good, sway bar bushings were good, etc.

It's definitely the steering box that has the play. After adjustment, the play in the steering box is much better - more like 1-2" of play. It's not bad, it's just not a new car

I'll see how it does with the stabilizer, and then replace the box if I'm still unhappy.

 

Another thing to check is the mounting holes on the frame near the steering gear. My project van (E-Superduty Ambulance) had basically pulled its steering box out of the frame. Huge cracks, etc. I ended up reboxing most of that section of the frame to fix it.

 

Checked that - it's definitely slop in the gears in the box.

JP