Ignition won't turn over. Battery OK
#1
Ignition won't turn over. Battery OK
1990 E-350 460/7.5l - e4od -
For a couple weeks now I have watched the ignition slowly start to "die" out.... noticabely more when the Van has been running, after I turn her off, she doesn't want to crank back on. No "clicking", no turn, just dead sound...So when she's a little hot, it doesn't want to start. When she's cold in the morning, she starts right up every time. Slowly over the past week or so, when I crank the ignition, it seems like there is a "delay" in starting. In fact, I can hold the key in the starter, and crank it all they way, and it might take 10 seconds before she wants to turn over. I am certain it is electrical. The battery is perfect, Had it checked yesterday. Last night I tried to turn her on after she was hot, and I don't even get a "click" sound. Just nothing at all... So I cranked the ignition, then opened and slammed my driver door shut really hard, and she slowly turned over! I'm guessing either Ignition coil, starter relay, or "bad" wiring.... Any Thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
-Cam
For a couple weeks now I have watched the ignition slowly start to "die" out.... noticabely more when the Van has been running, after I turn her off, she doesn't want to crank back on. No "clicking", no turn, just dead sound...So when she's a little hot, it doesn't want to start. When she's cold in the morning, she starts right up every time. Slowly over the past week or so, when I crank the ignition, it seems like there is a "delay" in starting. In fact, I can hold the key in the starter, and crank it all they way, and it might take 10 seconds before she wants to turn over. I am certain it is electrical. The battery is perfect, Had it checked yesterday. Last night I tried to turn her on after she was hot, and I don't even get a "click" sound. Just nothing at all... So I cranked the ignition, then opened and slammed my driver door shut really hard, and she slowly turned over! I'm guessing either Ignition coil, starter relay, or "bad" wiring.... Any Thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
-Cam
#2
I'm thinking starter/solenoid or ignition switch. Your starter, once it starts to wear out, can bind up when the solenoid engages. To start with, pull the starter and take it an auto parts store and have it tested. Most places will do it for free. Advance Auto and Autozone to name a few major stores. I would look at that first. It will take you a little time to pull it and re-install if it checks out ok, but now money other than maybe the ride to the store. Good luck!
#3
Well it would not be the starter or Ignition coil.
When the solenoid does not click when the key is turned what do the lights do? Does the dome light go out?
If the lights go out look at the battery cables between the battery and the solenoid on the fender and the ground cable to the block from the battery.
When the solenoid does not click when the key is turned what do the lights do? Does the dome light go out?
If the lights go out look at the battery cables between the battery and the solenoid on the fender and the ground cable to the block from the battery.
#4
Our Napa has some gizmo to check battery, charging and starter draw right in the vehicle in the parking lot.
Of course their reason to do free checks is to sell parts.
You'd have to time it right so it's hot when you get there and maybe walk to lunch and have them check it cold too.
Always good to check grounds on general principles.
There are some hard ones to real steel and bolts and some with sheet metal screws.
I've pulled starters out and hit them with jumper cables but make sure you have it pinned to the ground.
If they work correctly, it could break your wrist or worse when they jump.
I've also had solenoids (the separate kind mounted on the fender) get stupid.
Someone ran it across the field, shut it off, handed the key to dad and there was smoke coming out from under the hood.
Solenoid stuck sorta 'on' and smoked itself so they can get goofy.
Of course their reason to do free checks is to sell parts.
You'd have to time it right so it's hot when you get there and maybe walk to lunch and have them check it cold too.
Always good to check grounds on general principles.
There are some hard ones to real steel and bolts and some with sheet metal screws.
I've pulled starters out and hit them with jumper cables but make sure you have it pinned to the ground.
If they work correctly, it could break your wrist or worse when they jump.
I've also had solenoids (the separate kind mounted on the fender) get stupid.
Someone ran it across the field, shut it off, handed the key to dad and there was smoke coming out from under the hood.
Solenoid stuck sorta 'on' and smoked itself so they can get goofy.
#5
#6
No word of a lie....Im having the exact same problem as you. Just on tuesday this happend to me trying to leave work. I think I have narrowed it down to a loose connection at the ignition coil. I had to pump start it to get home. Battery was ok, but thought it was my alternator, but replaced it that same night. The next morning I went to start her up and started right away. Funny thing is...when i got home that night, I turned her off and tried to start her again and I got nothing. So when you say it starts up cold but wont when warm makes me think otherwise now! However...I pulled a code #24 which is primary coil circuit failure. But I think my starter might be pookin out on me. But go over your ignition system anyways... goodluck
#7
The hot/cold themes can be duplicated with a hairdryer.
If it's an ignition coil or whatever, you can heat components up one at a time to try and narrow down temp related failures.
A guy last week heated and cooled his suspect part a few times and was definitely sure he found the bad part.
If it's an ignition coil or whatever, you can heat components up one at a time to try and narrow down temp related failures.
A guy last week heated and cooled his suspect part a few times and was definitely sure he found the bad part.
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