I looked on the internet, and searched here and read about 30 threads, but I didn't see a mention/answer to this peticular question:

When doing the two person brake pedal pushing method to bleed brakes, what is the approx number of pedal pushes for the outward rear brake line before I can start looking for the new fluid?

I just didn't want to go through a quart of fluid and 100 pushes when 10 pushes would of done the job. Just a rough guesstimate will suffice....

Thanks!

 

If you are purging your brake system of the old fluid, I would try to suck out most of the old fluid from the master cylinder, before starting your bleeding, and fill it with new fluid. You will be able to tell when the new fluid starts running from the bleeder valve as it will appear much lighter in color. A clear piece of tubing slipped over the bleeder will allow you to see the new fluid coming through. Be sure to keep your master cylinder full while you are bleeding the system. Also, start at the farther point which would be right rear, left rear, right front then left front.

I hope this answers your question as there is no way to determine the actual number of times you will need to pump and bleed. It is determined by watching for no air bubbles and clear brake fluid.

 

New master cylinder, new drums, rotors, calipers, wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, all new brake hardware/springs.

One less system to worry about. I don't think the brake system was EVER serviced by the po. Soft lines look good though.

Problem is, everything has been leaking so bad, and for so long, I don't think there is any old fluid left in the lines. I just want to make sure I don't stop short in bleeding the rear, and leave air in the lines. That would sort of negate the $300.00 I spent on brake parts today.

 

Hopefully you have bench bled the master cylinder and if not you will need to remove it and perform this operation to save you lots of problems. It will require a lot of brake fluid to fill all the new wheel cylinders and calipers. Just remember to keep the master cylinder full to avoid filling the system with air.

 

Yes, very important to do that....

 

I do know to get a air pocket purged from the rear-most line, you need near the amount of fluid the reservoir in the master cylinder will hold. So if you bleed it till you have about half the fluid left, fill it back up and and bleed it till about half is gone again, that will be about right for replacing all the fluid to the rear most wheel cylinder.

 

Yes, bench bleed the h*ll out of it. Master cylinder is installed, and hopefully will start the rest of the project this weekend. Brakes are still mushy, but I expected that. Hopefully new everything else will clear that up.

 

Perfect! That's what I was looking for. Gives me a point of reference.

 

Get yourself a mighty vac... Start at the right rear wheel... Once the pump pulls with no air bubbles move to left rear do same then right front finishing with left front...

If you didn't bleed the mc... You either need to pull it out or bleed it by slightly cracking the lines that connect to the master...

Good luck

 

You're kidding, right? If my wife found out I bought something to accomplish what I could of done with my foot FOR FREE, I'd never need brakes again!!

But really, thanks for the suggestion.

 

You can actually borrow one for free from auto zone.... As for cheaper doing it by pumping the pedel... Well for that you need a friend... And most friends(at least mine) need beverages... So you got a six before you start.. A six while your doing it and at least a case when your done to celebrate a job well done..

 

Ha!! Know what you mean. That was my going rate "back in the day", whenever a friend asked me for help. I was easy, especially after the second six.

Now a days, that's what kids are for. I had 7, just to make sure at least one was available...

 

Did the rears yesterday, and used your suggestion as a benchmark. You were exactly right. Clear fluid and a couple air bubbles presented themselves on the second fill of the front (small) reservoir. With all new hardware, and a good bleed, my pedal feels like a brand new vehicle!

Quick question. Why are the rear brakes on the small reservoir? With the length of the lines and all, I would think that you would need more fluid available to service the rear. The front lines are a short run, but are on the large reservoir. How come?

 

Because the front brakes supply 80% of the stopping action of the brake system as a
whole, the extra fluid is a "just in case" buffer and provides for them working for a longer
amount of time in the event of leaks (which should be discovered during periodic
maintenance).

 

Its actually because of the volume of fluid needed to fill the calipers when the pads wear. The wheel cylinders require less of course because of the diamater of the piston. You shouldnt need to top off the fluid unless you have a leak, when the reservoir for the frt is low it tells you your pads are worn.