Lots of Power Door Lock threads- I believed the problem to be the standard foil fix, the fuse was blown when I got the truck- I completed the fix on the passenger door but still a no go, replaced actuator with a new one still blowing fuse... after several lock activations (although locks not moving) fuse blows.... locks did work several times in extreme cold, I can hear clicking from under dash...when fuse is good

1. Will a bad actuator blow a fuse? or should I ask has anyone ever seen this, because I am sure it could......

Any other thoughts

 

You are incredibly foolish to bypass the fuse.

Use a resettable fuse if you must, to do diagnostics.

Look for a short in the wiring, working backwards isolating systems until you find it.

Make sure your comprehensive (fire and theft) insurance is paid up, and you will be satisfied with the pittance they will give you.

 

Where did the gentleman say he was bypassing a fuse?


mushman...is this the fix you're referring to? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3284532
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3737718

 

My understanding of that sentence is to stick a bit of aluminum foil on the fuse to bypass it.

If that is not what is meant, then I am mistaken.

 

But thanks for the warning, the foil is on the actuator motor, but NONE of mine have had that fix, the one that I did it on has been replaced with a new Ford Actuator

I am just blowing the fuse when the locks are activated....... but the locks never operate, they try but don't move then bam the fuse blows

My thought is if its in the wiring. like broken, between the door, it would not work at all, so I am assuming it is a something in a lock actuator shorting out? but shouldn't the new one at least work till the fuse is blown? and it does not, so I am a little confused.

 

Sorry for misreading your statement, but I have seen that done lots of times... with disastrous consequences.

That precise language is used to describe bypassing a fuse by a lot of mechanics.


Unplug every actuator and see if it still blows.

If it does, you got a wiring issue.

If not, work backwards by reconnecting them.

Lots of work.. hence.. electronics techs get paid the big bucks..


PS Is there a way to disconnect wiring harnesses to each side / door one at a time?

If so, that saves disassembling the door.

 

After disconnecting each door actuator and still watching the fuse blow (I rigged up a 30 amp blade fuse much cheaper than the other fuse), reviewed wiring diagram I have come to the conclusion its a bad VSM. Read several other threads more on the 02 than 03, but I am leaning towards that right now. I did notice the fuse blows a little quicker when I use the remote and the horn blows-----I am leaning this way because I think I am also getting low voltage to the actuators, why else would the new one not be working consistently. Problem is cant find a part number on the VSM and it looks like it must be programed at the dealer using the old one.........mmmm they may win this battle

 

Before you give up, you have done good work.

Try this.

Take the module out.

If it powers door locks via relays, replace the relays with new.

Try to clear the volatile memory (e.g. shorting the power input to ground) once you take it out.

Then, clean the contacts.

Reinstall.

See what it does.

Right now, looks like it is a relay jammed... or something like that.

 

1) So from what I can gather if I use a used VSM from a vehicle that has the same accessories, or exact same vehicle it should operate, with the exception of programming the remotes? The programming of a replacement VSM by ford is all about the vehicles equipment and not about the vehicles computer information or vin specific information.

2) There are no known ways of programming a new one other than the Dealer? surprised sounds like someone is missing out on a opportunity.