1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

traction bars for 96 250/350

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  #46  
Old 02-06-2011, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by FARM69
So whats the best approach for guys that do a lot of towing?

What about ground clearance?

6' seems like a lot.. With a long bed regular cab they would mount infront of the cab?
I would set it up like the rest of us, i have put down a lot of miles while towing and haven't had any issues with my setup. The longer you go the more you minimize the affects of binding in the suspension and 6' would be way to long for a long bed regular cab. Mine is at the back edge of my door so if you used them on your truck then it would be close to the front.
Clearance shouldn't be an issue. It just depends where you mount it on the axle. My setup doesn't drop below the bottom of my diff so it wont limit clearance
 
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:49 PM
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Thanks for the reply Ryan. I checked out your pictures in your gallery and your setup looks clean and professional.

Is you bottom mount just a piece of flat iron that goes through the U-bolts undernearth of the block spacer?

What about the top mount? You have it on outside of the frame right?
 
  #48  
Old 02-06-2011, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by FARM69
Thanks for the reply Ryan. I checked out your pictures in your gallery and your setup looks clean and professional.

Is you bottom mount just a piece of flat iron that goes through the U-bolts undernearth of the block spacer?

What about the top mount? You have it on outside of the frame right?
the bottom mount is a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 plate, don't remember what I used, that is cut out in the center for the block and then welded to the block at the center and then has four holes drilled for the ubolts to go through.
The upper is made of 1/4" 3x6 angle with 3/8"x4 flat bar and is mounted to the outside of the frame.
Thanks for the comment, I put a lot of time in trying to make it look nice
 
  #49  
Old 02-06-2011, 11:10 PM
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Same here with clearance. My brackets don't go below the diff. And I havent tried shorter so Idk about binding.
 
  #50  
Old 02-07-2011, 09:46 PM
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With bars like Jeff used, a good length is either where the carrier bearing is mounted if you have one, or the U joint on the back of the transmission or transfer case if you don't.

That way the drive shaft is not trying to get longer and shorter as the suspension works up and down.
 
  #51  
Old 02-17-2015, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jg96powerstroker
nice set up man!!! show me more! i see alot running around like this and i see a lot like what i was building, more pics please!!!
i undersand how it will stop from bind, but now arent the ladder bars usless because now the ladder bar can move freely with the axle back an forth?? it will stop it from twisting, but what about hopping????
 
  #52  
Old 02-18-2015, 11:55 AM
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Yes, a ladder bar set up with a shackle front mount will move back and forth as the suspension flexes like it is supposed to. (as can be seen in my attached video) That is normal.
In order for the pinion angle to climb, like in a wheel hop or axle wrap condition it needs to push up in a near vertical plane on the shackle, which it will be unable to do.

Btw, a traction bar, not ladder bar, needs to be mounted below the axle tubes, not above. The bar will have much better leverage to control wheel hop mounted below than above.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cYnJX1WIYUE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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