1993 7.3 1 ton 4x4 with banks turbo only starts when plugged in (even in warm weather) I replaced one of the batteries which was bad and made sure the other was fully charged. When not plugged in, it seems to be cranking fast enough to pop, but doesn't... Could this be a glow plug issue in 90 degree weather ??? Assuming its cranking fast enough when not plugged in, what would the block heater have to do with it starting or not starting in 90 degree weather. Is this merely an rpm issue at start, or am I missing something? I'm Considering a test of the glow plugs.
Thanks in advance for any advice
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums Here is a link to the page for your engine. Note the sticky at the top of the page dealing with glowplug problems.
I would think you have a few bad glowplugs which means that the controller shortens the time the plugs are heated. With an indirect injection diesel working glowplugs can be needed even in warm temps.
However post your problem on that page for more info would be my advice along with testing all eight glowplugs.
I would see if the glow plugs are working properly, but, i think you should be looking farther then the glow plugs... I've never personally had any problems starting my truck at 35* w/o glow plugs or plugging in, so sounds like something else is up. does it show any smoke when your cranking?
Take off the bullet connectors off the glow plugs clean them take sandpaper roll it up and get in there good, before you plug it back in get an ohms meter put the ground to the screw tread of the plug and the power (red) to the tip it should read less than 2.5 ohms anything higher than 3 is a bad plug trust me I just did it!! Take your ohm meter to your auto part store get a new plug and test it you'll see the difference. DO NOT BUY AUTOLITES they will swell up the tip the previ in my truck had autolites not good!! I spent the extra $25 and got ac delco or you can get bosch. Charlesoccer is also right check your fuel shutoff solenoid it could be stuck in close and you wont get fuel to your engine. If you do the plug test and they are all good then you have serious AIR in you line I had a combo of both bad gp's and air Good luck
when you attempt to start the truck, try hooking a 3rd, good battery (so voltage wont drop during cranking) to the fuel cutoff solenoid, maybe its not liking the voltage drop during cranking.
with third battery/ jumpers, hook negative jumper to negative battery cable. then unplug the fuel cutoff connector and instead put the positive jumper on the solenoid, it should click, try cranking/starting.
Mine is a non turbo but I think the solenoid is the same top middle of your block on top of the fuel injection pump one conection runs together with another plug into the block thats your cold advance solenoid the conector that is by itself is the fuel solenoid. just clean the connection ( If you have the time should clean all your connections that have to do with your glow plug system, battery and gpr and if you have a glow plug relay it's the one on your fender its also a starter relay) I hope your not bypassing or forcing your gpr on with a toggle switch that would mean you fried the gpr and glowplugs and burnt any wire not meant to carry the power for the plugs. Believe me the previ owner did that on my truck and thats what happened I bought a new Gpr at Napa $85 and new gps $105 put them in and no more problems. NOW before you spend all this money check for serious air in your lines, PLUG YOUR TRUCK IN for 6-8 hours so it gets nice and warm it's what I did it'll help get it started without the plugs and you can get air out easier, get a battery jumper attach it to the battery farthest from your starter( as an alternator). have someone start cranking the engine crack open one fuel line as they crank you should get a steady stream once the air is out you'll hear it want to turn on and if it comes out it will probably start, (DON"T CRANK FOR MORE THAN 20 secs you'll burn your starter) wait a minute and try again. If it turns on good if not its ok you can now move on to the glow plugs, see air will make it harder to turn on than not having GP's ask any diesel mech. air in your lines = NIGHTMARE. If you move on to Gp's pull one out with an ohm meter black to the threaded part and red to the tip you should get less than 2.5 if you get more than 3 its a bad plug. take your meter to the parts store and test a new one you'll see what I mean. Good Luck and Merry Christmas P.S. mine is an 89 Lariat f250 7.3 and it is a Mean truck!!!!
Thanks, I just got back from trying to start it again after more time plugged. Ice cold..... so tomorrow will begin with test to see if the cord is bad or I need to pull the heating element and replace it. Once I can heat the motor up I will be able to get it home and do all the tests and start replacing all of the bad stuff. Does anyone know where I can buy just the connectors that slide over the glow plugs??? If they are not sold as a 7.3 specific item, what would be the best way to replace my burnt and cracked connectors??? thx
Thanks , just got back from Napa I just need the proper size. By the way , they don,t carry Motorcraft glow plugs. The truck "expert" working the counter explained to me that the autolite and motorcraft glow plugs are identical..Madfe in the same factory same materials same specs ....just put in a different box. I find that hard to believe after reading this forum for a few years. I would love to go back and give him some undenialable proof. Maybe Ill bring in a few of the motorcraft gp's once I track them down. Heading out now to but a new block heater and new glow plugs and will try to get them in before Christmas. thanks for your help.
DUDE if I find a picture of a swelled up autolite I took out of my truck I'll post it for you just get the Gpr from napa not the plugs go online and search for local auto parts store not autozone or advance auto type in ac delco glow plugs or bosch glow plugs take your time if its worth doing then do it right!! I found mine in a local auto parts store not a big chain store where are you located? if you dont mind I'll help you look I know cause I spent a month trying figure out what was wrong unitl an email came across that explained it to me these diesels aren't complicated! They are just stubborn
If you plug in your block heater for 3-4 hours you'll feel your radiator hoses get warm thats all that does is heat your radiator fluids thats how it heats your block try it before you buy it you don't want to work on that in the cold
1. Removed and Tested the block heater cord and found a coroded end which I have repaired and replaced.
2. Replaced Ignition switch
3. I was only able to remove 3 glow plugs. The ends were black and wet...OIL? Ill bring more tools, (3/8 swivel) tomorrow and get the rest out .
4. couldn't find the motorcraft anywhere in stock. I will order them on line tonight.
5. The wts light stays on now for about 12-15 seconds. When it goes out I dont hear the clicking that I used to hear. I think I may have fried the gpr =/or controller
6. I found the fuel control solenoid, I will attack that if the new glow plugs / relay dont take care of the problem. I also feel that there may be air in the fuel line. Is there any way to bleed the line without help. I'm pretty much alone on this job.
Thanks to all for the help! Ive been reading for months in anticipation of this project.
Moderator of the "not wrapped too tight forum"
rarely in life do you meet a person that will drop everything to help a stranger,
and give the shirt off his back to a friend.
Steve Price was that kind of person.
Godspeed "window licker", the short bus will never be the same with you gone.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.