I hope you can help me. This is my husband's truck and he is currently deployed so he cannot help me at the moment. I tried to start the truck yesterday and it would crank but not turn over, I tried it a couple more times and stopped and went and got a multimeter. I tested both batteries, one battery read 12 volts and the other other nada, nothing...So this morning, after I prayed for a miracle, I checked the batteries again because I did not want to pull them out if they were good, they are heavy as it is. They were both reading 12 volts, so I decided to look at my other options of why it is not starting. I checked the glow plug relay, it took me a while to find it. I sat the multimeter to volts and put the red lead on the bolt with the brown and yellow wire and black to the ground of the battery. I got fluctuating readings between 6-8 volts and I did it two more times and got 0 volts. I could hear the relay clicking but it did not stop clicking while I had my daughter turn the truck to on and I know that the clicking is supposed to stop after a couple minutes. Y'all I am thinking it is the glow plug relay but I do not know It has been hard to start the last couple times I started it before but I got it started now I am frustrating and sad and all of the above. I tried to start it again and I could barely get it to crank...could it be the starter and the glow plug relay...any help would be appreciated it, I promised I would take care of it and right now I just do not know what to do...Do I try to change the glow plug relay and how do I check the starter I know I can use the multimeter but I for the life of me cannot remember how too... I usually do not post to the boards but I do not know anyone since we are new to the area and I really do not want call a repair shop until I can figure it out...
Bad batteries is what I would say. They should be reading higher. If you can get it started by jumping it off then take it to napa. They can test the batteries and charging system with the batteries still in the truck...and for free!.
If it is the batteries, I'd recommend getting them both replaced as one will just drag the other down.
Welcome to FTE. Relax. You've come to the right place and we'll help you figure this out.
First off, when you do get it started, is there a bunch of white smoke? This indicates an issue with the glow plug system.
I'll give you 2 tests to try. First, grab your multi-meter and set it to read volts. Check each battery while you have your daughter crank. Watch how low the voltage drops while cranking.
After you let it sit for a while, take a screwdriver and lay the metal blade across the 2 large posts on the GPR. You may have to remove the rubber boot off of one of them if it's still there. It will spark at first and the screwdriver will start to get warm. This is normal since you are bypassing the GPR and using the screwdriver to send voltage directly to the glow plugs. Hold it there for 30 seconds or so, then get in and try to start. You don't have to wait for the light to go out at this point since we just bypassed it.
Let us know the results and we'll go from there. Also what area of the country are you in (just a state is fine) and what are the outside temps overnight?
Edit: And reps to John for staying on top of things up there in the SD section. Got to spread it around first though.
I live in Tennessee and the temps tonight are 23 degrees and I think that is where it is going to stay. I am going to do that in the morning after I take my son to school. When I started it before it was some smoke in the back but I cannot tell you if it was white smoke. Sweet I can do that the first one I did not think to do I checked the volts before I went in to start it and not as I was starting it.... I will let you know tomorrow as soon as I do it...
Thanks to your husband for what he does. I know its hard having him away. What part of TN are u in? If u do end up going to the parts store to have batts checked , I would get one of the terminal brushes and clean the terminals really well. Those can cause cold start issues as well. It does sound like bad batts or connections.
2000 Ford F-250 Supercab, 7.3 PSD, Auto, Bone Stock, 202,400k. 08 SD tailgate.
2011 Ford Escape Limited, V-6, For the wife.
I am betting batts also. The clicking noise that did not stop for a while is the clue. The cold will zap a set of weak batts very quickly.
Thank You and your husband for the sacrifices that yall make for my freedom.
__________________ Brandon PAA MEMBER # 7.3, 99.5 CC,4X4,SB, leveled,live tuned by Jody,1.15 van turbo w ATS housing,6.0 IC,AFE big boost filter, Petes Armour,fuel bowl delete,black MBRP stacks, 02 headlights,F650 dash, 16x10 MT wheels, 35" tires,and a bunch other stuff that wont fit in my sig. 425K and counting.
I live in the clarksville area, my husband is stationed at Fort Campbell....Thanks again!! I am waiting for a friend to come over to help me test out what was recommended yesterday, my daughter is at school today..I will let you all know what happens...
My money is on the "bad battery" connections. Try a removal and clean with a wire brush on the battery terminals. I can see no other reason why one battery would go to "0 volts" and the other to be at 12. Also wiggle the battery terminals and see if one is loose.
If your only reading 12.0 volts, your gonna need a charger. Try charging them overnight on an automatic 10amp charger. It will help keep the batts a little warmer than ambient air temp, and you should have 12.8 per battery. Make sure that cables are nice and clean. If your GPR is clicking, chances are it is working fine. if you open the door to the truck, and notice the interior lights get dimmer when you turn the key to the on position (glow plugs draw quite a bit of power), the gp's are probably ok.
__________________ These are not the Droids you are looking for.....
2013 Ford Escape SEL 2.0L Ecoboost i4WD - Wifey's DD
2000 F250 SD XLT SC LB 4x4 PSD Ebony and Grey 297K, TS 6-pos Chip, 6637, CCV - my DD now.
1999 Cheby S-10 - 4 banger, 5spd, 205k Beater work car.<--- The next one to go to the scrapper.
As already stated, the clicking is a sign of low voltage. These trucks do start meaner in cold temperatures.
Clean your battery posts and cable ends. Charge the batteries. Try starting the engine.
A number of us had this issue recently and after a good cleaning of connections the problem was resolved. My morning temps are mid teens this week and has required multiple cranks to start my engine. I limit cranks to a few seconds each.
David Norwood. 2001 F350 7.3 DI CC dually purchased new.
Alternative Fuel User Since 2003-vo is always in my fuel. Only one fuel tank. GPI/CIM-TEK spin on filterhead and 10 micron filter.Superchip. Hutch and Harpoon mods 2010. Diesel inline wix (33007 or 33972) filter between tank and Airtex E2236 fuel pump (rated to 110 psi).Fuel pressure gauge. HOH for fuel line heat from tank to 12v lift pump & two 12v 36" heaters. July of 2013-265/75/16 E range BW Michelin.
It was the battery, I took them out and took them down the street. One battery completely gone and the other battery needed to be charged. I took care of both batteries put them back in the truck and it started....The only hardest thing was the lifting the batteries out, he has a 6 inch lift and needless to say it took me a while by myself. I want to thank each and everyone of you for your advice and assistance and I should have trusted my instincts from the giddy up. I learned something from your comments and I will remember this if it ever happens again..
Great! I figured that in your first posting based upon your voltage readings. Hope you cleaned the posts up real good. You can put a light coating of grease over the terminals to help prevent corrosion.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.