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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

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  #46  
Old 03-27-2014, 08:10 PM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
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[QUOTE=HIO Silver;14205784]Ya really ought to use a paint specifically formulated for engines and heat which are more resistant to oils and such.

I agree. The paint i used in the first place was specific engine paint. I actually think they had a dark one to but i opted for the light blue. I was already at walmart so i figured id take a look. I will have to check again at advance. They put it on special every once in a while for $5.99. I think ill just redo with the same color
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  #47  
Old 03-27-2014, 08:11 PM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
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I agree with you that even the slightest bit too much chrome looks gaudy and belongs in a hotrod
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  #48  
Old 03-27-2014, 08:14 PM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
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Like this beast i saw at a car show last summer >

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  #49  
Old 03-27-2014, 09:51 PM
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2x... I prefer a near stock look with a few details. In general, try to stick to four colors in balance. Every once in a while another color will sneak in (like the boots on my spark plug wires) but overall it's satin black, silver, a Ford blue, and, at least in my case, grey. In the end, strive for visual balance.... that's my recommendation.

I don't understand why some will paint a brake booster blue. That, among other things, drives me nuts. I mean, does one really want to draw attention to a lame brake booster? Not me. The engine is the focal and should be treated as such. Another fail are colored wiring loops that result in looking like a bunch of snakes doing the nasty under the hood. Again, distracting and gaudy.

I leave the underhood chrome and polished billet to the lawn chair racers (show cars/trucks).
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Old 03-28-2014, 09:40 AM
VaFordman26 VaFordman26 is offline
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I agree. The cleaner, simpler, and less shiny it is the better. I like your color combo on the MC and booster. Did you use that krylon 1613 for the fenders?
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  #51  
Old 03-28-2014, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaFordman26 View Post
I agree. The cleaner, simpler, and less shiny it is the better. I like your color combo on the MC and booster. Did you use that krylon 1613 for the fenders?
Thanks.

I ordered a bunch of Rustoleum engine paints from Summit and tried their semi-gloss/satin engine paint for the inners and firewall... in fact, almost everything in the engine compartment is from Rustoleum's automotive line except the booster. It's cast grey from a GM-oriented seller at a swap meet... it was low-buck.
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  #52  
Old 08-16-2014, 01:49 PM
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I know this thread is from 2010 and might not be active. But the tips and advise within are very good. Nice clean motor and good photos that are inspiring to a hopeful DIYer.
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  #53  
Old 08-16-2014, 07:04 PM
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Not my truck but here is a pic of my 68 Torino 427 S/O 4 speed engine compartment. When I detail the truck engine compartment I'll keep it as clean and as stock as I can using the proper paint and hardware.

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  #54  
Old 08-22-2014, 03:28 PM
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Just to add some more thought to this post; I agree the engine is the focus point; and should stand out among inner fenders; I even paint the trans dipstick (Kelly Green) and the oil / p/s dipstick ususally a sliver or aluminum. not to hip on the yellow dipstick of modern rides. Just for thought...
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  #55  
Old 08-23-2014, 02:38 AM
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I don't really get how there are guidelines for engine detailing on these trucks. Personally, I am a huge fan of black and chrome in the bay and would never paint my engine parts blue or any of the multi colors that are so commonly recommended for the Ford engine bay. It would seem that the correct colors are up to the vehicle owner.

Isn't it all about personal preference anyway?
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  #56  
Old 08-23-2014, 09:53 AM
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How do you go about cleaning and prep for the detailing. I watched
on youtube the car engine was pressure washed and sprayed with a decreaser of some sort. (long video but first part is about the engine compartment)
I have used Gunk and covered all electric parts with aluminum foil. After cleaning the car's engine would not start. Some water got into the spark plug cables. Later I learned that WD 40 works to remove water and mositure. But how did this guy on the video get away with not covering anything is a mystry. Any thoughts on cleaning the engine?
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  #57  
Old 08-23-2014, 10:37 AM
Westcoast Highboy Westcoast Highboy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HIO Silver View Post
Ya really ought to use a paint specifically formulated for engines and heat which are more resistant to oils and such.

Here are the principles applied and using Rustoleum High Heat engine paint. IMO, my paint is a touch too dark. Oh well, it's what I bought... that's why I went with silver valve covers to lighten it up.:

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.


Now that is a tidy looking engine assembly. Nicely done!
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  #58  
Old 08-23-2014, 03:05 PM
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post #166/178

He painted inner fenderwells with "rustoleum industrial aluminum". And I like the silver and black and alum color scheme, the blue wire wrap....maybe.

This guy has worked his tail off on his truck and all the hard way. Ck out his cab swap method by hand and timbers.
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Old 08-23-2014, 03:05 PM
 
 
 
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