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Rear end bounces @ 40-45 MPH
#691
There must be a spring rate difference, or sway bar difference. Mine rails corners pretty well with little to no lean, bone stock. This is one reason I was thinking part of the problem is the coils. The other reason is that moderate bumps at lower speeds dont compress the front end much, and if they do, it rebounds very fast. Nothing soft or plush about those front springs. I am pretty sure Ford's answer to that is something along the lines of, "...Heavy Duty truck...".
I was thinking of running a tube that connects the front arm rear bolt solidly to the rear spring front bolts, one tube on each side of the chassis. It'll be long and lower than the frame, but not as low as my step bars.
I was thinking of running a tube that connects the front arm rear bolt solidly to the rear spring front bolts, one tube on each side of the chassis. It'll be long and lower than the frame, but not as low as my step bars.
#693
There must be a spring rate difference, or sway bar difference. Mine rails corners pretty well with little to no lean, bone stock. This is one reason I was thinking part of the problem is the coils. The other reason is that moderate bumps at lower speeds dont compress the front end much, and if they do, it rebounds very fast. Nothing soft or plush about those front springs. I am pretty sure Ford's answer to that is something along the lines of, "...Heavy Duty truck...".
I was thinking of running a tube that connects the front arm rear bolt solidly to the rear spring front bolts, one tube on each side of the chassis. It'll be long and lower than the frame, but not as low as my step bars.
I was thinking of running a tube that connects the front arm rear bolt solidly to the rear spring front bolts, one tube on each side of the chassis. It'll be long and lower than the frame, but not as low as my step bars.
There is a thread on Powerstroke.org on this exact issue called: My theory of the SuperDuty hop and possible fix. I've been very involved through the whole thing and it's several years old with 798 posts now.
There have been guys with every make of springs and shocks along with all different lifts etc. Nothing tried with suspension or drive lines have cured the issue, it goes deeper then that. It is induced by tires and the road your on and the speed of the truck. Guys have had some success with changes done to suspensions but nobody has cured it through suspension tuning.
It became a problem with my SCLB after I went from 37/12.50 tires to 38/15.50 tires. The additional 35 lbs per tire sent the truck into a shaking disaster. I originally thought that Les Schwab could not properly balance big tires. After 7 trips back to them to fix my 42 mph shake I started realizing it was the chassis.
After a bunch of time spent pinpointing the source of the problem I looked for a way to beef up the frame. Most guys felt the open part of the frame was the issue, the area without lower crossmember ties. But it's where all the leverage is put on the frame from the weight of the Diesel engine and what comes from the road that is transferred through the radius arms into the frame itself.
There is a obscene amount of pressure put on the radius arm hangers keeping everything controlled and in place.
Ford doubled the frame rails in front of the radius arm hangers and even boxed it to handle the weight of the engine all the way to the front bumper. But at the fulcrum point it's a single wall C channel frame...........
Anyhow I tied the radius arm hangers together with 1/2" plate and 3" channel iron between them. Two 3/4" sized bolts hold that in place on both sides. Then I added a 3" channel iron into the transmission crossmember with three 3/4" bolts holding it in place along with the two trans mount bolts.
From there I tied it all together with 1" solid steel square stock. Up to front channel and back to the frame in the rear using the 4 holes that held on the ugly OEM skid pan for the transfer case.
Like I said it was instant cure of all the issues with the truck bobbling at 42 mph. It honestly gives the truck a shorter feel to it because it just feels solid now going down the road. The suspension does all the work in my truck anymore.
If you are a mechanical guy get under it and do what I did. There is only one hole drilled that was not there already and that was on transmission crossmember.
I can produce measurements etc if anyone with a 2005-2007 wants them.
Let me know, I wish I had a way to mass produce them but I'm a pipe fitter not a metal fabricator.
#694
There is a thread on Powerstroke.org on this exact issue called: My theory of the SuperDuty hop and possible fix. I've been very involved through the whole thing and it's several years old with 798 posts now.
There have been guys with every make of springs and shocks along with all different lifts etc. Nothing tried with suspension or drive lines have cured the issue, it goes deeper then that. It is induced by tires and the road your on and the speed of the truck. Guys have had some success with changes done to suspensions but nobody has cured it through suspension tuning.
It became a problem with my SCLB after I went from 37/12.50 tires to 38/15.50 tires. The additional 35 lbs per tire sent the truck into a shaking disaster. I originally thought that Les Schwab could not properly balance big tires. After 7 trips back to them to fix my 42 mph shake I started realizing it was the chassis.
After a bunch of time spent pinpointing the source of the problem I looked for a way to beef up the frame. Most guys felt the open part of the frame was the issue, the area without lower crossmember ties. But it's where all the leverage is put on the frame from the weight of the Diesel engine and what comes from the road that is transferred through the radius arms into the frame itself.
There is a obscene amount of pressure put on the radius arm hangers keeping everything controlled and in place.
Ford doubled the frame rails in front of the radius arm hangers and even boxed it to handle the weight of the engine all the way to the front bumper. But at the fulcrum point it's a single wall C channel frame...........
Anyhow I tied the radius arm hangers together with 1/2" plate and 3" channel iron between them. Two 3/4" sized bolts hold that in place on both sides. Then I added a 3" channel iron into the transmission crossmember with three 3/4" bolts holding it in place along with the two trans mount bolts.
From there I tied it all together with 1" solid steel square stock. Up to front channel and back to the frame in the rear using the 4 holes that held on the ugly OEM skid pan for the transfer case.
Like I said it was instant cure of all the issues with the truck bobbling at 42 mph. It honestly gives the truck a shorter feel to it because it just feels solid now going down the road. The suspension does all the work in my truck anymore.
If you are a mechanical guy get under it and do what I did. There is only one hole drilled that was not there already and that was on transmission crossmember.
I can produce measurements etc if anyone with a 2005-2007 wants them.
Let me know, I wish I had a way to mass produce them but I'm a pipe fitter not a metal fabricator.
There have been guys with every make of springs and shocks along with all different lifts etc. Nothing tried with suspension or drive lines have cured the issue, it goes deeper then that. It is induced by tires and the road your on and the speed of the truck. Guys have had some success with changes done to suspensions but nobody has cured it through suspension tuning.
It became a problem with my SCLB after I went from 37/12.50 tires to 38/15.50 tires. The additional 35 lbs per tire sent the truck into a shaking disaster. I originally thought that Les Schwab could not properly balance big tires. After 7 trips back to them to fix my 42 mph shake I started realizing it was the chassis.
After a bunch of time spent pinpointing the source of the problem I looked for a way to beef up the frame. Most guys felt the open part of the frame was the issue, the area without lower crossmember ties. But it's where all the leverage is put on the frame from the weight of the Diesel engine and what comes from the road that is transferred through the radius arms into the frame itself.
There is a obscene amount of pressure put on the radius arm hangers keeping everything controlled and in place.
Ford doubled the frame rails in front of the radius arm hangers and even boxed it to handle the weight of the engine all the way to the front bumper. But at the fulcrum point it's a single wall C channel frame...........
Anyhow I tied the radius arm hangers together with 1/2" plate and 3" channel iron between them. Two 3/4" sized bolts hold that in place on both sides. Then I added a 3" channel iron into the transmission crossmember with three 3/4" bolts holding it in place along with the two trans mount bolts.
From there I tied it all together with 1" solid steel square stock. Up to front channel and back to the frame in the rear using the 4 holes that held on the ugly OEM skid pan for the transfer case.
Like I said it was instant cure of all the issues with the truck bobbling at 42 mph. It honestly gives the truck a shorter feel to it because it just feels solid now going down the road. The suspension does all the work in my truck anymore.
If you are a mechanical guy get under it and do what I did. There is only one hole drilled that was not there already and that was on transmission crossmember.
I can produce measurements etc if anyone with a 2005-2007 wants them.
Let me know, I wish I had a way to mass produce them but I'm a pipe fitter not a metal fabricator.
#695
So I told one of my friends who has a lot of money (BIG MONEY like can have anything he wants kind of money)... about the hop issue. He was looking for a rig for his 16 year old daughter. He figured he would have some fun with this issue and take her to the dealership to test drive CCLB trucks. Since he is familiar with the 45 mph hop since his new platnum CCLB truck hops at 45.
He instructs his daughter to drive at 45 mph when they are on the test drive. He also tells her to react every time it bounces....LOL
So he goes to one Ford dealership and his daughter drives (3) CCLB trucks, each one had the hop at 45 mph........
Then he drives to another dealer and drives another (3) CCLB trucks and each one of those had it........
The salesman kept asking....are you sure your daughter wants a CCLB truck.... The Salesman was embarrassed every time and she would purposely drive it at the speed to keep it hopping....LOL
#696
My theory
I have a '05 6.0 extended cab, long bed and was wondering a few things. Obviously my truck does the same funny hopping motion, and so I developed a few theories. Has anyone with steel (heavier rims) noticed a hop? Also, since there is such a difference in height in the front and back (4in block) I was wondering if anyone with a long bed that was leveled noticed a difference? Seems to me that would shift the center of gravity back a bit.
#697
My '06 4x4 CC SB is in the shop right now for this very issue. Pure luck that I stumbled on to this thread in the 6.7 forum. Shop is claiming that it's my drive shaft out of balance. Haven't got the truck back yet so I don't know the outcome yet.
Prior to this, I've had 3 sets of Michellins (18") warrantied due to ford claiming they were not round.
Michellin was very good to keep replacing, no questions asked. But after 3 sets...no more.
new Rancho shocks
New u-joints and carrier bearing.
Still hopping.
We'll see if the driveshaft balancing cures it.
Prior to this, I've had 3 sets of Michellins (18") warrantied due to ford claiming they were not round.
Michellin was very good to keep replacing, no questions asked. But after 3 sets...no more.
new Rancho shocks
New u-joints and carrier bearing.
Still hopping.
We'll see if the driveshaft balancing cures it.
#698
My '06 4x4 CC SB is in the shop right now for this very issue. Pure luck that I stumbled on to this thread in the 6.7 forum. Shop is claiming that it's my drive shaft out of balance. Haven't got the truck back yet so I don't know the outcome yet.
Prior to this, I've had 3 sets of Michellins (18") warrantied due to ford claiming they were not round.
Michellin was very good to keep replacing, no questions asked. But after 3 sets...no more.
new Rancho shocks
New u-joints and carrier bearing.
Still hopping.
We'll see if the driveshaft balancing cures it.
Prior to this, I've had 3 sets of Michellins (18") warrantied due to ford claiming they were not round.
Michellin was very good to keep replacing, no questions asked. But after 3 sets...no more.
new Rancho shocks
New u-joints and carrier bearing.
Still hopping.
We'll see if the driveshaft balancing cures it.
#699
Just saw this over on TDS, thought I would share here too.
Ford TSB 16-0087.
CREW CAB PICKUP -8 FOOT BOX -VIBRATION/HOP -68-112 KM/H
TSB 16-0087
(42-70 MPH)-FACTORY TRAILER HITCH
FORD:
2011 -2016 F-Super Duty
ISSUE
Some 2011-2016 F-Super Duty crew cab pickup vehicles equipped with an 8 foot box and a factory trailer hitch may exhibit a vertical vibration, often described as hopping, from 68-112 Km/h (42-70 MPH).
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Does the customer describe a vibration, which may be described as hopping, at approximately 68-110 Km/h (42-70 MPH)?
a.
Yes -proceed to Step 2.
b.
No -this article does not apply. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 100-04 for normal diagnostics.
2. Does the vehicle have a cage damper mounted to the factory trailer hitch on the driver side? (Figure 1)
TB10877A
Figure 1 -Article 16-0087
a.
Yes -this article does not apply. Refer to WSM, Section 100-04 for normal diagnostics.
b.
No -proceed to Step 3.
3. Remove the wiring connector on the driver side of the trailer hitch. (Figure 2)
4. Locate in the driver side plate of the trailer hitch the following holes. (Figure 3)
a.
Clearance hole 17.6 mm (11/16"). The clearance hole will be used for the cage damper rubber pad. (Figure 3A)
b.
Three mounting holes 14.6 mm (9/16"). (Figure 38)
TB10879A
Figure 3 -Article 16-0087
5. Mount the cage damper and install the bolts. Tighten to 63 Nm (46 Ib-ft). (Figure 4)
TB10880A
Figure 4 -Article 16-0087
PART NUMBER PART NAME
9C3Z-5DOO8-8 Damper Assembly
W706496-S439 bolt (3 Req) .
I really don't have my hopes up too high on this for a couple of reasons,
1. I am out of warrantee will Ford pay for this since it is not a recall, even though my truck has a well documented history with the issue.
2. Paul B (Ford engineer) pointed this out for earlier model years back near the start of this thread:
INSTALL DAMPER SERVICE KIT - 5C3Z-5D008-A :SOME 2005-2007 F-SUPER DUTY VEHICLES WITH A LONG WHEELBASE (156", 158", OR 172")(396, 401, OR 437 CM) AND EQUIPPED WITH A HITCH MAY EXHIBIT A VEHICLE VERTICAL VIBRATION, OFTEN DESCRIBED AS "HOPPING", ON SMOOTH OR COARSE ROAD SURFACES IN THE 42 48 MPH (68-77 KM/H) SPEED RANGE. ALTHOUGH THIS BEHAVIOR IS CONSIDERED NORMAL FOR AN OVER 8500 GVW TRUCK, SOME CUSTOMERS MAY BE SENSITIVE TO THE CONCERN. TO IMPROVE THE 42 48 MPH (68-77 KM/H) VERTICAL VIBRATION, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTION SHEET INCLUDED IN THE SERVICE KIT. NOTE: THE INSTALLATION OF THIS DAMPER WILL NOT IMPROVE RIDE ON SEGMENTED CONCRETE HIGHWAYS, STEERING WHEEL VIBRATION/SHIMMY, OR GENERAL HARSH RIDE CONCERNS.
Slightly deferent part number but if I recall a few chimed in and said it didn't fix their problem on older trucks.
Ford TSB 16-0087.
CREW CAB PICKUP -8 FOOT BOX -VIBRATION/HOP -68-112 KM/H
TSB 16-0087
(42-70 MPH)-FACTORY TRAILER HITCH
FORD:
2011 -2016 F-Super Duty
ISSUE
Some 2011-2016 F-Super Duty crew cab pickup vehicles equipped with an 8 foot box and a factory trailer hitch may exhibit a vertical vibration, often described as hopping, from 68-112 Km/h (42-70 MPH).
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Does the customer describe a vibration, which may be described as hopping, at approximately 68-110 Km/h (42-70 MPH)?
a.
Yes -proceed to Step 2.
b.
No -this article does not apply. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 100-04 for normal diagnostics.
2. Does the vehicle have a cage damper mounted to the factory trailer hitch on the driver side? (Figure 1)
TB10877A
Figure 1 -Article 16-0087
a.
Yes -this article does not apply. Refer to WSM, Section 100-04 for normal diagnostics.
b.
No -proceed to Step 3.
3. Remove the wiring connector on the driver side of the trailer hitch. (Figure 2)
4. Locate in the driver side plate of the trailer hitch the following holes. (Figure 3)
a.
Clearance hole 17.6 mm (11/16"). The clearance hole will be used for the cage damper rubber pad. (Figure 3A)
b.
Three mounting holes 14.6 mm (9/16"). (Figure 38)
TB10879A
Figure 3 -Article 16-0087
5. Mount the cage damper and install the bolts. Tighten to 63 Nm (46 Ib-ft). (Figure 4)
TB10880A
Figure 4 -Article 16-0087
PART NUMBER PART NAME
9C3Z-5DOO8-8 Damper Assembly
W706496-S439 bolt (3 Req) .
I really don't have my hopes up too high on this for a couple of reasons,
1. I am out of warrantee will Ford pay for this since it is not a recall, even though my truck has a well documented history with the issue.
2. Paul B (Ford engineer) pointed this out for earlier model years back near the start of this thread:
INSTALL DAMPER SERVICE KIT - 5C3Z-5D008-A :SOME 2005-2007 F-SUPER DUTY VEHICLES WITH A LONG WHEELBASE (156", 158", OR 172")(396, 401, OR 437 CM) AND EQUIPPED WITH A HITCH MAY EXHIBIT A VEHICLE VERTICAL VIBRATION, OFTEN DESCRIBED AS "HOPPING", ON SMOOTH OR COARSE ROAD SURFACES IN THE 42 48 MPH (68-77 KM/H) SPEED RANGE. ALTHOUGH THIS BEHAVIOR IS CONSIDERED NORMAL FOR AN OVER 8500 GVW TRUCK, SOME CUSTOMERS MAY BE SENSITIVE TO THE CONCERN. TO IMPROVE THE 42 48 MPH (68-77 KM/H) VERTICAL VIBRATION, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTION SHEET INCLUDED IN THE SERVICE KIT. NOTE: THE INSTALLATION OF THIS DAMPER WILL NOT IMPROVE RIDE ON SEGMENTED CONCRETE HIGHWAYS, STEERING WHEEL VIBRATION/SHIMMY, OR GENERAL HARSH RIDE CONCERNS.
Slightly deferent part number but if I recall a few chimed in and said it didn't fix their problem on older trucks.
#703
The section you are reading that in is from an old TSB for 2005-2007's showing they tried this before, it doesn't mention segmented highways in the newer TBS, although I doubt it will help that.
#704
Ah, cool thanks. I'm still under extended warranty. I will visit the dealer and see what they say and/or do. I'll keep you posted!
#705
I did too and found the P/N had OO's instead of zero's and the 8 is actually a B. Not sure if this is actually it but it shows as a damper. All vehicles listed for it are 08-10. I don't even know what this is supposed to do. Maybe someone else does.
9C3Z-5D008-B
Here's a link
9C3Z-5D008-B - Genuine Ford DAMPER ASY
9C3Z-5D008-B
Here's a link
9C3Z-5D008-B - Genuine Ford DAMPER ASY