OK, So I need to rebuild the turn signal switch/cam and horn assembly. I want to put a new steering wheel on and dont like the prices I have seen so far! I was wanting to know the trade off for a smaller wheen than what I think is the cracked original 17". It is all manual steering if that is a factor. Thanks guys, look forward to your ideas and comments!

 

The 17" 3 spoke steering wheel is the same: 1960/63 Falcon/Comet / 1961/66 F100/250 2WD / 1966 F100 4WD / 1966/72 Bronco / 1967/70 F100/350.

Dennis Carpenter has reproduced this wheel in black only. Since these wheels tend to crack, finding a decent used wheel is difficult.
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C9TZ13341C .. Turn Signal Switch / Available from Ford.

Fits: 1965/66 F100/250 2WD / 1966 F100 4WD / 1967/68 F100/350 / 1969 F100/350 before serial number G30,001.

MSRP: $61.98 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $44.63 ~ PartsGuyEd = Horizon Ford in Seattle (Tukwila) WA
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C2OZ13A821A .. Horn Brush & Insulator Kit / Obsolete

These two parts fit into a small round hole on the outside of the steering wheel, under the horn ring (or button). The insulator is hand pressed into the wheel, then the brush is inserted into the insulator.

The brush has a thin wire inside a small coil spring, and usually snaps.

Available from Ford Dealers/obsolete parts vendors. Carpenter has this listed in his 1957/66 repro truck catalog, but I believe it's NOS.

3: MT, ND and SD Ford Dealers have it. I'll list the names/phone numbers if interested,

 

Not an authority, IMO manual steering and smaller steering wheel would be tiring and a major task in cornering; having said that, seem to recall a thread where the topic came up and member posted a series of smaller passenger car steering wheels that possibly fit Ford trucks. For info purposes, if the original wheel is in fair condition with a few cracks, etc, they can be repaired with epoxy putty that can be purchased in any hardware store. Eastwood offers a steering wheel repair kit that includes the epoxy, aerosol can of cleaner, and a paint primer. Reparied steering wheel on the 65 and pleased with results. Anyhow, food for thought.

If intend removing the turn signal harness the connector pins can be removed without cutting the harness using tweezers, mini screw driver, on simular instruments.

 

Ford techs T/S Switch removal on vehicles of this vintage,

The wires are color coded. Cut the wires off the plug (located outside at the bottom of the column), leaving an inch or so remaining.

Wrap the wires with tape, tie a long piece of string to the wires, then remove the switch from the (top of) the column.

Tape the wires of the new switch together, tie the string to them, then pull the string from the bottom of the column, the wires will easily feed down the column.

Then remove each colored wire end and insert the correct colored wire of the new switch into the plug.

If you pull the wires from the plug, then remove the switch without using tape and the string, feeding those fracatta loose wires of the new switch down the column, can be a real b!tch.

And if you don't cut the wires off (leaving enough so you can determine the color), you'll be asking ppl which new colored wire goes where.

 

i didnt mind the small wheel i put on one of my early broncos i put a 14 or 15 in grant wheel on a 70 bronco with manual box and 42 swampers drove fine and gave me alot more leg room only thing hard was to parralell park truck needed to be moving to steer easy but i liked the grip much better and ran this set up for 15 years or more . wes

 

That's what I did too, but they actually make a tool to do this job. Check out NPD catalog p 267.



There are other variations of this tool, but all are essentially a tube that slips over the connector pin, compressing the barb, so the pin can be removed from the plug just by pulling wire/pin out. Then all 7 new wires with their pins can be taped and pulled back down column as described above, and replaced correctly back in the plug.

 

Who would have thunk, IMHO, well worth it even if only use once. Thanks for the source, placed on my shopping list, just so happens intend removing the steering column to replace lower steering column bearing, there's lot of slope in the column and may solve the left turn signal cancelling problem. Thanks again!!.

 

I bought one of those tools at my local CarQuest auto parts store. I have used it several times and it was well worth the money. A lot less aggravating than tweezers and a mini screwdriver.

 

For feeding all sorts of wires I bought a fiberglass rod kit from Harbor Freight. I have a long set that I use to feed Ethernet Cables in walls. My set for my truck is all 12 inch rods, and has hook and wire eye ends. I used that to feed wires down my column when I put in a new turn signal switch.

 

I find many times trying to unlatch those outside clamping devices breaks them.

A tool like the one shown would be a nice asset for the tool box.





John

 

OR, a guy could just find a signal-stat 900 turn signal switch and run the wires on the outside of the column. Mounts to the column externally. Find 'em on ebay or in the (big truck) junk yard - there's a ton of them out there. They last forever. Not for the purist, but if done right, very durable and functional. Not self-cancelling, but you can't miss seeing it. I've done that to my last two slicks and it worked great both times.

 

There lies the problem, think will find turn signal malfunction is usually due to the cancelation cam wearing down or breaking thus failing to cancel the blinker and the fact this ole timer is somewhat absent minded usually end up driving for miles before realizing the turn signal has been blinking; must admit, keeps fellow drivers on their toes.

 

My problem is that the stop switch is working, but unless the turn signal is in the just right spot, then only one brake light gets power, and works. So I will have to pull it apart as the cam is keeping it all from working right. So an exterrior fix is out of the question for me, but I will be at car quest asking about that tool though!

 

OK, but at least I finally got the dash indicator light working, so now I only drive a few blocks before I notice.

 

My dad was a conductor for the Reading and Conrail. He was kind of hard of hearing so he purchased a chirper that went in place of the flasher relay from the back of a Popular Science Magazine. Holy heck was it loud, but he never left on the blinker for thirty miles again.

Garbz