The clutch on this truck started smoking while reversing up to a barn this weekend. After unloading, it drove fine, but I've been advised that it's time to get a new clutch.
I usually haul 16000 loads of hay or less using the gooseneck flatbed.
What clutch kit would you suggest.
The truck is a '97, 450 SD, dually, with 460ci and 5 spd transmission.

 

Too bad you're not 4x4, you could run 4 lo in 2wd for your heavy reverse maneuvers.

No clutch will like that, especially a single disc, however there are a couple different things you can consider...

Inexpensive route would be a decent quality single, like luk, valair and the like. It's likely that this route wouldn't change anything.

An expensive dual disc, valair may or may not have the 460 listed in their website but they can build a lot of clutches that aren't on their website. This still might not solve your issue, although it would take much more heat before it became an issue.

lastly, you could add a transfer case to your 2wd. Since you're a 450, you already have a 4x4 trans...so you'd have to source a t case, shifter, and shorten the driveshaft. This would cost about 500 bucks if you sourced the case and parts from a jy....it'd be 750ish otherwise. This would make you the happiest, you'd likely be able to back up with little or no clutch slip, allowing you to use even the cheapest of replacements.

 

By adding a transfer case, he will loose the driveshaft parking brake.........How many miles on the truck? Maybe it is just time for a new clutch. I have a '96 F350 Powerstroke 2wd and a '97 F450 Quigley 4x4 with a 460. I have had the clutch stinkin' on both of them at some point. Haven't had to put a clutch in either one yet. However, I am not normally hard on a clutch. The only abuse the clutch gets in my trucks is when I absolutely NEED to abuse it. The last time the one in the '96 got hot, (which weighs just south of 14,000 lbs. "empty" its a fully loaded service truck) I was pulling a semi truck out of a snowdrift. I've put 15,000 miles on it since and it was definitely stinking that day. My point is, any name brand replacement clutch should be up to the task, unless you abuse it on a regular basis, IE: riding the clutch. Also check to make sure the pedal has correct free play and is not keeping the clutch partially disengaged.

 

I thought about mentioning that, but the guys with 4x4 SD's don't seem to have an issue. Lo range also makes it harder to turn the engine when off...wouldn't be my end all be all solution for a park brake but effective nonetheless. Lo range combined with a good functioning standard e brake would be just fine in those instances where you cant find flat ground to park a big load IMO.

 

No way to put a standard Ebrake on a early 450......they have rear discs. Been there.......researched all of this......Trust me on this one I had to buy a $1800 modified transfer case from Quigley to replace a grenaded one. I wanted to keep the truck original. They weld the mount for the Ebrake onto the back of the transfer case, The main bug-a-boo when Quigley decided to do the conversions back in the day.

 

Just your average run of the mill STOCK clutch will work just fine

Also, no need for a t-case and 4 low. That truck has either 4.63 or 5.13s gears and a 4.66 reverse. PLENTY low enough to maneuver.
It would be a different story if it had the S-42 trans and higher gears

As for not a parking brake on a standard truck is just plan stupid

 

I forgot about the lack of ways to deal with a conventional e brake on the Ole dana 80 ford. 99-? E series dually have integrated e brake at the rear, could go that route rather cheaply if sourced properly.

Obviously not as simple as t case d shaft...and there's still no reason not to go that route per se, except in the unfortunate circumstance where your main hydro brakes fail.

 

And then he would have to carry 2 spare tires? One 8 lug for the rear and one 10 lug for the front?
And they are dana 70s in the E series, a MUCH weaker axle

 

Wow........Lets totally re-engineer a truck for a simple clutch replacement.........LMAO

 

exactly ..

 

E series dually I believe are dana 80 10 lug, not the srw 8 lug.

Thinking out loud as for the rear end options which I already admitted was more work than I had originally stated, putting it out of the question with the exception of a scenario that started with a rare axle falling into his lap. You don't want me chasing your posts and patronizing you with "reengineering for a clutch job, lmao" style comments....

His problem isn't that he's roasting clutches, his problem is reverse maneuvering heavy loads which can be a huge pain for those who have done so, a pita which is further compounded by soft terrain...the t case makes quick work of all that. What we've determined is it isn't as cut and dry as I made it sound. If it were, it'd solve his problem and likely not even replace the clutch...

All that said, if it were me that hauled heavy for a living, I'd in fact keep an eye out for an axle that worked, and I'd have a t case on my 2wd which would quickly turn 4x4. I guess that reengineering isn't as hard as it looks.

 

Did you buy the truck new and how many miles? Im guessing it's the factory clutch? If so, it's worked for 8+ years, and looks like it's worked hard. It doesn't matter what kind of clutch you put in, if your having to ride it to back in, your gonna get it hot. My vote is a factory style replacement, they were made to tow/haul heavy. They are simpler in design which makes for more dependable.

 

SRW econolines are dana 60
DRW econolines are dana 70

And both are 8 lug

 

i can't agree with you enough.

 

Thanks for all the discussion. I'm learning a lot.
I bought the truck from original owner with 67K miles. Now have added about 10K.
I'm not up for a major re-engineering of the drive train. Just don't have the confidence I'd do it right, or the time (They are related: The more confident you are, the quicker you work).
I only have had clutch problems in reverse, fully loaded, and this past time, I was trying to back the trailer up over a small berm to get to barn driveway.
I'm assuming it was factory clutch because the truck was clean when I bought it. Seemed like original owner, even though he was a rancher, babied it.
I'm new to hauling (at 45 years of age, if you can believe it. My back may give out before the clutch.), so therefore new to heavy-duty clutches. I thought there might be something out there designed for this type of work. It sounds like that's not the case. I called one shop to see if they could do it and they quoted me $1300, which seemed outrageous, but made me think they are using a special clutch (I'm going to call them back and get more details). Anyhow, the tractor/baler mechanic I work with is going to help me do it this Wed., and I think we're just going to drop the transmission, replace seals if we think oil is leaking into clutch assembly and install a new clutch. So, given all that, what clutch would you choose?