Just saw your suggestion of factory-style replacement. It seems reasonable. Is there a go-to brand, or just head to the local autoparts shop?

 

if he has a 4.66 reverse ratio with 5.13 gears,he's got a 23.9:1 final crawl ratio.

with my pickup,3.55 gears,2.18 reverse ratio,2.69 t-case in lo range, i have a 20.8 final crawl ratio.

so compared to chip truck with the e40d/bw1356 in 4lo he's got a lower reversing ratio than i do!!!
if my quick google search of ratio's and the online calc are correct.that's nice!


with log truck,5.13 gears,2.18 reverse ratio,no t-case, iv got a crappy 11:1 crawl ratio.
about twice as high as chip truck while in reverse.this sucks!


Drivetrain Final Crawl Ratio Calculator (Engine Rotations Per Tire Rotation)

iv gotta agree with ya.for him,he should replace the clutch and run 'er.
for me,iv got to continue on in getting a divorced t-case setup in mine.man.what a nice steep reverse gear in that zf5.


iv personally come to the conclusion that the absolute best long term solution is to swap in late model f450 or f550 front and rear axles.pricey but no hard to source parts.with a commercial vehicle imo this is vital.when,not if something breaks,you need minimal down time.this means,being able to walk into a parts store/placing an order online and be good to go again quickly is the name of the game.these rigs don't make ya any money broken down.

that said,iv also come to the conclusion,no matter what i did to mine,with it's custom stretched wheelbase it's never going to be any good off road(save for hard packed,dry grass which she does "ok" with) so im better off just keeping it 2wd.
(and chip truck with a ****** strap nearby when i take her on wet grass. )


.......

nice rig ya got there brijolep.good luck with her.

 

Your chip truck has an auto, correct? The torque convertor multiplies the gear, that is how they get away with such a high 1st gear of 2.71

 

I passed up on a matching set of dana 80 front and rear a few months ago....a whopping 1k from a guy I know. I thought "do I need those mammoths laying around" ... part of me said yes, part of me said no. For 1k, I'll be kickin myself in the *** if I find something to use them in. A SD dump is on my list, somewhere near the bottom, but it's on there nonetheless. Either way, dana 80 front is way overkill so the logical part of my brain will remain happy for now...

The 4x is good for logging in the soupy non frozen terrain, snow, etc. Just nice to have in general though.

 

what did the front 80 come from?

 

Started off life as a dodge dually 80.

 

You may find it helpful to put a receiver on the front of truck so you can push the loads in tight places. Much easier to control. The only problem I see with this is with a load of hey, you want be able see squat.

 

But what did the 80 front axle come from?

 

It started it's life as a dodge dually 80.

 

So it was a rear axle that someone put knuckles on?

 

I've always had good luck with LUK clutches......there may be better ones out there but they have worked well for me.

 

@Brijolep,

Standard clutch+ disc.

that your clutch started to smoke has only One reason, the disc slips between the flywheel and pressure group and develops heat.

Two possible reasons for that; 1) you are riding the clutch pedal. 2) the pressure group's springs are tired and therefore doesn't give you the same holding force as before when they were fresh.

Take care that you replace not only the clutch disk, but also the pressure group!
and inspect the flywheel, if that shows discolored spots and/or cracks, be sure to take the flywheel off and have it ground off (resurfaced might be a better word here?) don't forget to change the pilot bearing.

After that it is as new!

good luck.

 

I ALWAYS resurface a flywheel when doing a clutch replacement.......unless I am installing a brand new flywheel. It's just not worth the risk of ruining the new clutch. Ruin the new clutch and youre back in doing it again shortly. For the money, its cheap insurance..........

 

I put an 07-092 Luk kit between my 460 & ZF a couple of months ago.
I don't haul anything near that weight but I am quite happy with it.

If you've already roasted it do yourself a favor and have the flywheel resurfaced.

 

Also make sure you grab a couple of cans of Brake cleaner to clean the flywheel and pressure plate wear surfaces. They NEED to be grease free when you bolt them together. Most of the major clutch builders (including LUK) have a kit that includes the disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing. A lot of them even include the correct pilot shaft (dummy shaft or what ever you call it) in the kit. I would highly recommend going this route. Easiest way to get everything to ensure you do the job right. Good luck!