The rattling sound only occurs when i'm acclerating uphill, but it does go away during acceleration uphill if I push the gas paddle right to the floor. From inside the cab it sound like its coming from lower down on the engine. This is a differnet sound from the engine knock. I think I will try the stethoscope. thanks

 

i wonder if you might have time to tell me how you did the following from you tecnical sticky..." found the jumper that allows me to back off timing 2 degrees"...this was was from a post from 2-26-2003 from CowboyBilly9Mile

 

That jumper is up by the left front headlight. If I remember right it's taped over on the wiring harness. But pulling that jumper only masks the real problem and will lower gas mileage and performance. I would strongly advise against doing pulling it. If you've addressed the three common causes of engine ping, if there are no codes present, and if you've inspected your emission systems, I'd be thinking about the possibility of a leaky intake and one that is drawing in air from inside the engine. This can sometimes be seen by checking the color of the sparkplugs. Also, I suppose it's possible that the lower intake gasket is damaged in such a way that retorquing the fasteners doesn't solve the leak. Maybe try spraying some carb cleaner on the mating surfaces around the lower intake gasket whith the engine running; do it slowly and look for an idle speed change.

 

I am not really sure what the jumper looks like and what you mean by pulling the jumper...I don't suppose you may know where a picture might be...I would gratly appreciate any further help...Thanks

 

The SPOUT connector looks like this:



The gray part is the "jumper" that gets pulled.

 

...I had a follow up question about the fuel regulator on top of the engine...it has a vacuum line hooked up to it...if I unhook the vacuum line, it seems like it would just cut off, but it does not...I diconnected it one day and then the next day, for only a few minutes, the check engine lght went off...it came back on later and stayed on...I pulled in a parking lot and slid forward on some gravel as I stopped and the cel went off again....I wonder what is going on...?...I cannot find any loose connections anywhere...the miles per gallon is still awful and the knocking and pinging is ridiculous at times...especially under a load...any suggestions...?

 

I have the PM-3 and the '94 B-4000. Give me some direction on the "canister purge line" and the "canister purge port". Pardon my ignorance. I feel confident I can tackle this with a little guidance. Thanks

 

There is a pic in my gallery that should help.

 

Thanks Cowboy. I found it there.

 

Rockledge posted on cleaning the MAF sensor with an O2 safe cleaner. Got any typical examples of O2 safe cleaners? Thanks.

 

I don't know about the O2 safe cleaners; I've used brake fluid and an artist paint brush. Also, beware of electrical contact cleaners as some contain lube (attracts dirt).

 

To clean the MAF, you should use a non residual cleaner, like "Throttle Body" spray ceaner, something that will dry without leaving any film behind.

As Bill said you don't want the MAF grid to get dirty again & mess up it's calbration!!!!

Don't use strong solvent sprays like "brake cleaner" as some formulas can get after plastic parts.

I'd remove the MAF to clean it, rather than try to spray it in pace, as you can do a better job of cleaning it removed & you won't put all that over spray & any thing it removes, into the air intake & the engine.

Just be careful not to touch the grid or spray it too hard & damage it!!!!

 

Ok, I have not read every entry in this thread, but I have a question.
I have a 98 4x4 3.0 auto with ac Ranger with 126500 miles. I've been told the orifice (I think) to the EGR is blocked with carbon. CEL is on and EGR valve and sensor both have been replaced within the last year.
I've been reading about Seafoam and figure I'll give it a try. Unless cautioned strongly not to.
Not being really mechanically minded on these newer type vehicles, I need some help on where and how to get the stuff into the intake manifold. Pix would be great.

Thanks

 

Ronnidonni I'm not clear on just what your trying to accomplish here.

If your trying to clean the clogged EGR port, by ingesting Seafoam through the intake side of the engine, imo your not likely to succeed, as not much of the Seafoam will likely get to it through the intake side.
Only that portion that might be recycled through the EGR would & with a steady throttle setting, none would, because the EGR is closed then.

If your saying you think you have two problems, say, one is intake & combustion chamber deposts, then the Seafoam, SLOWLY ingested through a vacuum line, so as not to hydrolock the engine might work to remove some deposits. But go slow with it, so you don't give it so much at one time, that it stalls from hydrolock & bend something up in the engine!!!

Look back through the above links Billy, Rockledge & Ken posted, on where to find a good vacuum line source for liquid ingestion.

If you decide to go this route, I'd suggest using a small diameter hose, or stopping a hose down with the likes of a metal "sports inflation needle" the kind used to inflate basket & foot *****, so the engine can't get too much too quickly.

Be prepired to have to clean the spark plugs & change the oil & filter afterwards though, as you'll likely have plenty of crud in those places as well as plenty of the Seafoam mixed in with the lubricant.

You can now get good decarbon results with Chevrons "Techron Concentrate Plus", i a tank of gas, without all the mess, if your not in too much of a hurry for results, as it'll do it in one tank of gas, unless things are really carboned up bad, in which case it might take two, treated tanks of gas. The Seafoam can be used in the gas too, without dirtying up the plugs, oil & filter.

If your goal is to clean out a clogged EGR port, you'll likly have better results with removing the EGR valve & mechanically cleaning it out with a wire brush, scraper, or such.

 

Thanks Pawpaw.

Yes, my main goal is to try and unclog the orafice feeding the EGR valve as this is the reason for the CEL, as best guessed by two mechanics. Would it be worth while to just pull off the valve and see if I can knoch anything out of it? This happen once before right after I replaced either the EGR valve or sensor, and the light went off after a few days. I suspect the carbon chunk moved.