Issues after HG/Stud install
#1
Issues after HG/Stud install
Hey guys,
After completing my HG/Stud/EGR delete on my 06 F250, I started the truck after cranking for a while to a rough idle, some exhaust leaks, and a slight coolant leak. It threw a code that I deleted for a #7 injector. I wish I wrote it down at this point. Anyways, it would run rough as if a miss. So I was going to see if it was just air in the system and take the truck around the block. No sooner did I get out of my drive way and attempt to add some power, popping noise started. I thought it might be a hose, but they're intact. Its coming out of the intake tube as if some boy is playing on the bongos or such. It increases/decreases with revs. Anyone have any ideas? I can deal with the exhaust/coolant leaks, but can't figure out this one.
Thanks again,
Mike
FYI, here's some videos.
Initial start up, just missing on one cylinder and running rich.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SN6-xlYWuxs
And in a matter of about 30mins of run time, attempted to pull out of driveway and it started to pop through the intake.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1XXsl4l96g
Hope this helps.
After completing my HG/Stud/EGR delete on my 06 F250, I started the truck after cranking for a while to a rough idle, some exhaust leaks, and a slight coolant leak. It threw a code that I deleted for a #7 injector. I wish I wrote it down at this point. Anyways, it would run rough as if a miss. So I was going to see if it was just air in the system and take the truck around the block. No sooner did I get out of my drive way and attempt to add some power, popping noise started. I thought it might be a hose, but they're intact. Its coming out of the intake tube as if some boy is playing on the bongos or such. It increases/decreases with revs. Anyone have any ideas? I can deal with the exhaust/coolant leaks, but can't figure out this one.
Thanks again,
Mike
FYI, here's some videos.
Initial start up, just missing on one cylinder and running rich.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SN6-xlYWuxs
And in a matter of about 30mins of run time, attempted to pull out of driveway and it started to pop through the intake.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1XXsl4l96g
Hope this helps.
Last edited by KansasFlyer; 10-17-2010 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Add video links
#2
Possible bent pushrod?
I think it might be a bent pushrod per this posting over at DS:
'06 F250 P0275 DTC! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
I'll start there tomorrow and will get back with everyone. Pain that #7 is on the passenger side. This sucks, but oh well. Time to have another one.
Mike
'06 F250 P0275 DTC! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
I'll start there tomorrow and will get back with everyone. Pain that #7 is on the passenger side. This sucks, but oh well. Time to have another one.
Mike
#4
Bingo was his nameo
So after pulling off the passenger valve cover, I found 2 bent pushrods, mainly on the exhaust, and a cracked rocker. Not sure which happened first to cause the miss. Eitherway, heres the damage.
And I thought the 7th cylinder would be the aft passenger side bank per this post, but I actually found the cylinder numbering to be 1-4 on drivers side, and 5-8 on the passenger side.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...and-other.html
I'll let you know in a couple of days how it runs once I get it back together. Going to go to Ford in the morning and order me a new exhaust rocker. Got the two pushrods today.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/supermike/5095614946/" title="6.0L damage by chevy56sd, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/5095614946_bc812a0429.jpg" width="374" height="500" alt="6.0L damage" /></a>
And I thought the 7th cylinder would be the aft passenger side bank per this post, but I actually found the cylinder numbering to be 1-4 on drivers side, and 5-8 on the passenger side.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...and-other.html
I'll let you know in a couple of days how it runs once I get it back together. Going to go to Ford in the morning and order me a new exhaust rocker. Got the two pushrods today.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/supermike/5095614946/" title="6.0L damage by chevy56sd, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/5095614946_bc812a0429.jpg" width="374" height="500" alt="6.0L damage" /></a>
#5
So after pulling off the passenger valve cover, I found 2 bent pushrods, mainly on the exhaust, and a cracked rocker. Not sure which happened first to cause the miss. Eitherway, heres the damage.
And I thought the 7th cylinder would be the aft passenger side bank per this post, but I actually found the cylinder numbering to be 1-4 on drivers side, and 5-8 on the passenger side.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...and-other.html
I'll let you know in a couple of days how it runs once I get it back together. Going to go to Ford in the morning and order me a new exhaust rocker. Got the two pushrods today.
And I thought the 7th cylinder would be the aft passenger side bank per this post, but I actually found the cylinder numbering to be 1-4 on drivers side, and 5-8 on the passenger side.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...and-other.html
I'll let you know in a couple of days how it runs once I get it back together. Going to go to Ford in the morning and order me a new exhaust rocker. Got the two pushrods today.
The cylinder numbering on a 6.0L (as well as 7.3L and 6.4L) IS 1-3-5-7 on the passenger side and 2-4-6-8 on the driver side. This is not to be confused with the way Ford numbers their cylinders on their V8s.
As for the poping in the intake, I could already tell that something was not right, just by the way the engine sounded as you were cranking the engine over before it even started. And the reason for the popping in the intake, is because the cylinder the with failed pushrod and rocker arm were not opening either exhaust valve, thereby causing the conbustion in that cylinder to backfire through the intake as opposed to exiting through the exhaust manifold.
By the way, what method did you use, to remove the rocker arm?
#6
Sorry for being incorrect about the cylinder numbering. I was just going off of the DTC code that I got from the #7 injector, and the location of the bent rods.
I removed the stud nut, and loosen the two 10mm bolts. Is this a correct way? I can't quite explain why it was just running with a miss, then after 20mins of run time, started popping through the intake. I'm puzzled. Going to get the new parts on order today and we'll go from there.
I removed the stud nut, and loosen the two 10mm bolts. Is this a correct way? I can't quite explain why it was just running with a miss, then after 20mins of run time, started popping through the intake. I'm puzzled. Going to get the new parts on order today and we'll go from there.
#7
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#8
I don't see how you could remove the rocker without loosening the head stud. Even if I hand cranked it over to TDC for that cylinder, there would still some preload in the system, enough to prevent me from pushing down on the rocker to get it off of the ball joint on the bottom side. I've heard of people taking out one bolt/stud at a time with sufficient success.
#12
Yes, sir you are correct. But you will require the use of this tool to do so:
http://rotunda.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=794
http://rotunda.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=794
#13
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Yes, sir you are correct. But you will require the use of this tool to do so:
http://rotunda.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=794
http://rotunda.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=794
but links to rotunda dont work unless you are logged in.