Just a couple of quickies. We will be replaceing the steering gear box on our '75 F250 in a couple of weeks. Found a local parts house that has one in stock ($140ish + core)(Core=$155.00?!?!?....but I'll be taking the old one with me to just pay the $140)

I've searched HIGH and l o w... But I can not find the torque specs for the mounting bolts where the gear box mounts to the frame with the 3 jumbotron bolts? Anyone have ideas? I'd hate to just reaf it down, only to have it loosen up and hose the frame.

2nd question--How do the rear brake drums attach to the rear end. Not trying to sound like an idiot? But I've never had to pull drums off a heavy duty truck rear end with the cRaZy big hub. And the replacement drums appear to be just the run o' the mill type that slides over the lug studs? Now I know I'm not looking at this correctly---Do new studs for the lugs need to be installed into the new drums? Or am I missing something simple?

S-

 

You remove the rear drums by pulling the axle. First remove the six axle bolts and slide the axle out. Then remove the two hub bolts using a special socket. The hub and drum assembly will slide off the axle housing. To remove the drum from the hub you must press out all 8 wheel studs. If you have ever removed a drum from an older 4x4, the rear drums on your truck come off the same way as a 4x4 front rotor/hub assembly.

 

That's the fun part. I've never had to work with this system before. (always cars and light trucks) The wheel studs 'hold' the drum to the hub? That's interesting.

S-

 

Yep. You need to press out the studs to remove the drum from the hub. The "special" socket I was talking about is a thin wall 2 9/16" socket. This is what you need to take the spindle nuts off to remove the hub/drum assembly.

 

Ok..that answers that one.

How about the torque spec for the steering gearbox to the frame? I'd love to make sure the gearbox won't get loose on the frame and round out the holes.

S-

 

This is from an old post:

Can these lugs be driven out with a punch, or do I have to figure out some way to press them out with a puller or hydraulic jack?

On my '68 there's a screw that holds the hub to the drum. I haven't done this on the '73 with HD set-up.

Thanks,

JW

 

The answer is yes. I used a flat punch along with penetrant oil and worked around the circle of lugs, a couple of taps at a time until they punched through. Then I had to squirt more PB around the hub/ drum mating surface and while holding the hub edge with my old, crusty paw, hit the trashed drum around its perimeter until it finally separated.

I gotta be much less of a wuss when it comes to smacking mechanical things with a hammer! (I'm a carpenter fer chrissake) I'll bet the Ferrari guys do it, too...

 

Not this Ferrari guy.
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The free floating Dana rear is good times ! Just did my passenger side again ! Cuz I love it so much Here are two of my threads that will shine some light on your new adventure... Enjoy ! Oh a helpful word of advice, getting the new drums to seat on the hub is not a walk in the park, I had good success when I put a large washer on the stud, and used a impact gun with a lug nut upside down... if that makes sense.. pulled the stud enough to flush the drum with the hub.. you don't want any space there... Oh and I couldn't find those nut specs either when I put my rebuild steering box back on, so it got cranked down with the ol'e feel of the hand spec... If I had to guess I bet they are 90+ for torque.... There are a plethora of recent posts on steering boxes... grab some popcorn and get your read on.... I have a thread on that some-wheres around here also...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ized-drum.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-install.html

 

Ha! Not in front of the customers, anyway!

 

There are very few mechanic jobs I loath more than working on drum brakes.

The whole works are hanging there by springs, and when I have them all together I sort of fluff them up until everything seems a bit balanced and slip on the drums. A bizarre set-up...