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Can anyone tell me if it's possible to remove the stock wastegate actuator without pulling the turbo from the truck? I have the Banks Big head and can't figure out how to get the "C" clip off of the actuator rod end on the wastegate. I don't have enough room under the cowl to get my hands back there to pull the clip. I did manage to get my big hands back there and unbolt the actuator from the turbo housing. Now, if I can just get the arm off of the wastegate......any ideas? Thanks for any information you can share with me.
Even if you disconect the red wastegate actuator line, the wastegate will still operate and your boost will be limited, although at a somewhat higher pressure. The Banks big head wastegate actuator has a stronger spring than stock and holds the wastegate better so that you can get more boost on a modified truck.
May I ask what kind of boost were are talking about here?? I can run 30+ psi with my mods and my wastegate disconnected. I wouldnt recommend running even that much consistantly with the stock turbo. I don't think Banks is ripping you off fella, but I do think there are less expensive ways (FREE) to achive higher boost. Save that money for some other mods..... Good luck either way.
Funny I WOULD say Banks is ripping you off!! I've got my wastegate disabled and it was free!! I dunno - maybe it does something else fancy - but you're still gonna have a wastegate connected that will open - maybe at a higher psi - but it still will. SO - I would think that the free mod. would actually be better?? ANYHOW - good luck with that clip.
How do u disable the wastegate????? Should I wait until I get a boost gauge to do this. I dont really tow anything and dont run the truck hard. Just would like a little more pep when I do give it some throttle.
You can use an awl, pick, or a scribe to remove the c-clip. Don't plan on re-using it though because there is a 99% probability that you will lose the clip.
The consensus is correct that you can at least equal the performance of the BHA simply by disconnectng the wastegate actuator and increasing the seat pressure on the wastegate valve it self by shortening the actuator rod. Remember to plug the red pressure tube after you disconnect it from the actuator.
Thanks so much for your informative reply to my question. I'll be taking my awl to the shop tomorrow to modify the tip to a 90 degree bend to see if that will allow me to get that c-clip off the wastegate.
I'm not trying to build a race truck, nor do I wish to take a chance on melting the turbo by removing the boost line from the actuator. Others may wish to do so; more power to them. Pardon the pun....
when you are disableing it are you keeping it from opening?? 30 psi is alot, for only runs there psd at 17psi factory
the wastegate is also a saftey device so you dont over pressurize youre manifold
when you are disableing it are you keeping it from opening?? 30 psi is alot, for only runs there psd at 17psi factory
the wastegate is also a saftey device so you dont over pressurize youre manifold
No. All we're doing is delaying when it opens. In stock form the wastegate starts to open at 5 psi manifold pressure. By disabling the controller it will stay closed until manifold pressure forces it open. Adjusting the seat pressure via the actuator rod gives you control over when the wastgate can be forced open.
The BHA performs a nearly identical function. The increased seat pressure comes from the spring in the actuator as opposed to the rod length. It is no more or less safe that doing it the free way. No more than 2-3 psi difference between the two of them.
It seems like Banks is capitalizing on what should be a free mod. I also seem to remember one company selling "shim kits" for the 1997 and earlier FPR mod, something that costs less than $1 to do. Don't be fooled by Banks advertising.